Drop links: everyone's favourite!

[clf]

cut 7mm off the thread (discussed many times on the forum), then hand tighten by rotating the link, nip up once in place, using a cone spanner.

Also useful are crow's foot spanners, particularly when tightening the top nut.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

A pair of large Mole grips will hold the shaft whilst you tighten ...

Originally Posted by Heddy

... hold the rod with mole grips until the nut bites down.

Thanks for the suggestion guys but I'm afraid it won't work. The shaft/rod is connected to the joint socket. The ball will still be free to turn as tightening the nut is attempted.

Originally Posted by clf

... using a cone spanner.

I've never heard of a cone spanner but then I haven't fiddled with pedal bikes for rather a long time. I will look into that one, thanks Alan.

The potential problem with a crow's foot spanner is its width. The top nut lies in a shrouded recess which makes any open ended spanner difficult to use.

Simon

[Vossy]

I have DMGRS drop links, they say that cutting the top thread will not invalidate the warranty (4 years) so it's a very easy fit, at 15 quid each its really no choice, if they fail they go back and DMGRS are happy to collect.

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Thanks for the suggestion guys but I'm afraid it won't work. The shaft/rod is connected to the joint socket. The ball will still be free to turn as tightening the nut is attempted.





I've never heard of a cone spanner but then I haven't fiddled with pedal bikes for rather a long time. I will look into that one, thanks Alan.



The potential problem with a crow's foot spanner is its width. The top nut lies in a shrouded recess which makes any open ended spanner difficult to use.



Simon

When I have done mine, I turned the wheel/hub in the direction of the side I am.working on (right when on the right side, to the left when on the left). This allows for access with a flexible head ratchet spanner (as long as the 7mm thread is removed). But a crows foot also has fitted too albeit angled. Tighten by rotating by hand first then nipping it up is all that is required in this awkward section.

Then jack up the arb to meet the bottom end.

They're 30 min per side jobs.

I currently have a pair of £13 items from ebay that I added extra grease into - they were quite well packed anyway. Approximately 15000 miles and they are still good.

I am very sympathetic though with speed ramps and bad roads though.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

[Arctic]

The link maybe of use to some members, i am not saying it's the correct and only way to remove and fit the front drop links.

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=192709


I have gold ones to fit when mine decide to give out, three yrs now and still going fingers crossed.
1

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Arctic

I have gold ones to fit when mine decide to give out ...

Hi Steve,

They look interesting. If it's not a lot of trouble, would you mind measuring the height of the spanner flats on the ball end? I'm seeking 8mm (OE spec.) rather than the 5mm found on the Meyle links. My spanner is 7.2 mm thick.

Simon

[cbr1100xx]

Moog droplinks from euro car parts have the correct length threaded section and as I remember had no problem with fitting a spanner on.
But as per trikeys (I think)findings add some extra grease to the joints.

Stan

[SD1too]

Hey chaps, I've just had a very productive and hopeful telephone conversation with the technical department at FAI. Their anti-roll bar spanner flats are about 5mm high, the same as everyone else's, and completely incompatible with an ordinary spanner but they were keen to hear about the problems and offered to modify the production drawings to incorporate improvements.

So, I asked for spanner flats 8mm high (as my 1999 factory part) and said that the threaded pin does not need to be as long as 25mm. I said that enough clearance to use a ring spanner on the nut is what we really want to see. This was agreed and these changes are going to be put to the factory. It sounds almost too good to be true but it was so refreshing to talk to someone who understood the difficulties we face removing and refitting these parts and was prepared to try to do something about it.

It will be too late for me of course, so I've obtained a bicycle cone spanner for now. I don't like sawing through threaded rod but I may have to.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

I don't like sawing through threaded rod but I may have to.

Simon

You will love it when you struggle to fit the nut or remove it later when you replace it. With a good junior hacksaw it only takes a few minutes.

Remember, the cone spanners are only to hold the rod, they can twist easily if too much torque is applied.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Neither do I Ian.

Thanks Lee. A good website but the spanner attachment looks thin, just like the MGR parts. I have messaged them.

I will research those ideas, thanks Andrew.

Ideally, I would like to buy parts made to the proper OE dimensions so that I can use standard tools.

Simon

Bicycle spanners are thin and are perfect for the job.----I know this for sure as I have a Moped that uses bicycle spanners.--