Drop links: everyone's favourite!

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by clf

I am with you, but I do smear the face of the strut and the top of the nut after tightened with some copper grease.

I do cut the end off (it makes a huge difference when fitting), then fit them.

An hour later and I am washing my hands.

Grease. Good idea and helps to prevent rust.

If, just if, you have dispensed with the Nylock nut then there will also be no need to file off any sharp metal parts on the threaded section.

[clf]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Grease. Good idea and helps to prevent rust.

If, just if, you have dispensed with the Nylock nut then there will also be no need to file off any sharp metal parts on the threaded section.

I use whatever comes with it lol

[Cantray]

I replaced one of mine this week for MOT. The old one a pattern part from ebay and lasted 3 years and 12000 miles. Not great, but upside it was very easy to remove. I cut down the top thread of the new link with disc and filed the end. What I found when fitting the new one was that I didn't need to hold the flat at all. The nut tightened to specified torque with no rotation of the balljoint. I remember this from last time too. The actual removal and fitting of the link was 10 minutes work. Add jacking up and cutting and filing the thread. The first time I did this it took an hour to get the original drop link off. I had to use a cutting disc in the end. Perhaps the one advantage of links with a short half life.

[TourerSteve]

[QUOTE=COLVERT;2879880]I'm disappointed to see you all seeking complicated solutions when post 26 is the perfect answer.

Copper slip on this or that.---- Possible failure of the Nylock nut.---Torque values on something assembled dry, or lubricated.---


I feel you guys can't see the wood for the trees.---


But what do I know.-----[/QUOTE

No complicated solutions here . On this occasion using copper slip is just common sense to aid removal the next time, not for tightening torque .
I wouldn't even go to the lengths of double nutting as certainly no need if nuts are tightened correctly . Although part of the suspension, a drop link is not a structural part.
As said a straight forward job taking less then an hour !

[Darcydog]

My last set fitted several years ago are a replacement set from Matt at DMGS when the first set they supplied knocked themselves to bits in eight months and about 9000 miles. Excellent service from Matt who sent a replacement set with no problems.
There was lots of talk back then about the lack of grease under the rubber boot so I took one off and found the same as others had - no grease at all. - Seriously! Dry as a bone.

So taking my experience from Land Rover suspension swivels a made up a 50/50 mix of a good quality grease and EP90 and used a syringe to force a good few mls of this mixture into the joint by removing the circular retaining wire clip and gently lifting the rubber boot end at the narrow end away from the shaft so I could push the end of the plastic syringe in.

It was fiddly and I wasn’t happy with the deformed wire clips after my removing them so I used a good quality cable tie but it seems to have worked because these ones have been on the car for years now and no knocks or problems at MOT time.

I visually check them every year for MOT and no issue with the cable tie so far. So I would suggest before fitting any replacement drop link - invest a bit of time in getting lubricant into the joint.

[cbr1100xx]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Thanks for this Stan. I contacted Moog but they couldn't confirm this or the depth of the spanner flats which, from the photographs, look to be the same 5mm. They referred me to a stockist who could measure for me. The only non-mail order stockist is Euro Car Parts and when I searched on their website there was no sign of Moog. Brilliant!

Simon
I can confirm that they are the correct length, no need to cut anything.

As for the 5mm/8mm ,I can also confirm that my spanner went on with ease with maybe the slightest of push against the boot.

These also have the Allen socket at both ends so no need for fretting over spanner.

I would find a set of moog ones and get them brought and fitted.

Stan

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

I can confirm that they are the correct length, no need to cut anything.

Thanks for your post Stan. Please can you tell me what you mean by "the correct length". Can you easily fit a ring spanner over the end of the thread? Somehow I doubt it.

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

These also have the Allen socket at both ends so no need for fretting over spanner.

Can you get an Allen key in at the upper end, seriously? I think you'll find that the Allen socket is hard up against the underside of the spring so you wouldn't be able to get a paper clip into it!

** Update on design flaws **

I've been talking to X-Part and they have asked for full details to pass on to their UK intermediary and, hopefully, the manufacturer in China. There's little hope that anything will be changed for the better but at least X-Part is taking the problem seriously.
I've also had productive conversations with Meyle UK and FAI. Moog just wanted to send me links to website which did not have the information required. I have an enquiry pending with a fourth manufacturer.

Simon

[cbr1100xx]

Hi simon , YES you can get a ring spanner on the end under the spring , it needs no cutting,trimming, grinding, fettling or anything else
It is a direct fit ,
Obviously you can't use a Allen key on the top joint but you can on the lower one.
I can't see x part changing anything for a car that is over 20 years old and numbers are falling all the time.
Moog seem to have it spot on ,well built and correct dimensions.

Stan

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

Hi simon , YES you can get a ring spanner on the end under the spring ...

Well thanks very much for coming back to me on that Stan, much appreciated. I will try to track down this elusive Moog part.

Originally Posted by cbr1100xx

I can't see x part changing anything for a car that is over 20 years old and numbers are falling all the time.

As we know it's a common failure so demand for this part is high and there are at least five brands available which speaks for itself. The problem is that the original MGR design has been changed for the worse at some stage and will the Chinese be willing to revert to the original design? That's doubtful I agree but it's worth trying. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

Simon

[clf]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Well thanks very much for coming back to me on that Stan, much appreciated. I will try to track down this elusive Moog part.



As we know it's a common failure so demand for this part is high and there are at least five brands available which speaks for itself. The problem is that the original MGR design has been changed for the worse at some stage and will the Chinese be willing to revert to the original design? That's doubtful I agree but it's worth trying. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.



Simon

There are more than 5 brands, quite a bit more. I doubt that they are, but if they are used for a different car, or cars,then they will gave preference. But as far as I tell, these are made up from existing ball joints, then welded to the rod. If another ball joint existed with a short thread, I could see the shorter thread being adopted, if not, manufacturers are unlikely to retool to suit a diminishing market.

My solution was the £12 set, cut thread and additional grease. If they need replaced annually, it is not an issue, but so far so good and all quiet. I just have too many other things to spend time.on instead, especially since originality cannot be maintained on these items.


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