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Old 19th November 2023, 09:30   #1
Caulkhead
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Default No heat in car

Have nothing warm coming through heater, but temp gauge is at 9 o clock and car runs well.

Might an in hose thermostat help, or is there any other possible cause/solution.
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Old 19th November 2023, 10:43   #2
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Blocked heater matrix needs flushing out... Search the forum for Easiflush solution...

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Last edited by Lagetha; 19th November 2023 at 10:48..
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Old 19th November 2023, 11:33   #3
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Thanks, will do this and hopefully my wife will get in the car again as she is freezing!
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Old 19th November 2023, 11:47   #4
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As a strictly DIY comment I would first try to find a way to feel inside the car if the heater matrix is hot?

If the heater matrix is hot then check cables and connections of the ventilation system?

Or from the engine bay. I am not sure of what is accessible on the Rover 75 but on other older design cars the first thing we would do is check whether both pipes to and from the heater matrix are hot. If both pipes are hot the matrix is usually OK.

But of cars generally if there are coolant valves on those heater matrix pipes that can complicate matters and a valve gone wrong can potentially be the problem.

Another issue for those with expertise to make clear for us is that some older and modern VW/Audi have a dual cooling system and whether valves or dual cooling systems affect the Rover 75
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Old 19th November 2023, 11:48   #5
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Default Diesel engine

Hi Roy,

Just a few suggestions before you rush in to flush your heater matrix (which by all accounts can be quite problematic).

I see that you have the diesel engine, hence your idea to fit an additional top hose thermostat. You also say that the temperature gauge always points to the 9 o'clock position.

The gauge will sit in this position at all temperatures from 75 to 115˚C. This could mean that your coolant is reaching only 75˚C due to the well known problem of a lazy thermostat. I'd therefore recommend activating the digital display of engine temperature to find out what the actual running temperature is. You will then be in a better position to judge whether an in-hose additional 'stat is necessary or that your heater matrix needs de-scaling as Lagetha has said.

Simon

Edit: Ed3's post has coincided with mine and he makes a very good point about feeling the flow and return pipes to the matrix. However you don't need to worry about cables, valves or dual cooling systems as your Rover doesn't have them.
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Last edited by SD1too; 19th November 2023 at 11:52..
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Old 19th November 2023, 12:10   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD1too View Post

Edit: Ed3's post has coincided with mine and he makes a very good point about feeling the flow and return pipes to the matrix. However you don't need to worry about cables, valves or dual cooling systems as your Rover doesn't have them.
Simon, you may remember in the original EASIFLUSH post I reported both input and output pipes to my heater matrix were warm, both you and Trikey offered explanations, however that heat wasn't transferred to the car's interior, until I'd applied the EASIFLUSH fix and flushed the matrix - only 10 mins flush in each direction (I live in a soft water area so scaling wasn't the problem). It is much easier than removing the matrix, from inside the car, avoiding damaging "o" rings and connectors etc.
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Old 19th November 2023, 14:04   #7
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Thanks for suggestions, how do I activate digital display?

Will have a good check of pipes etc tomorrow as we are forecast some dry days, so will put the ark back in the garage!

Any thoughts about my bulb warning dashboard light, as mentioned all bulbs working, could the very damp conditions have triggered this?
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Old 23rd November 2023, 20:29   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caulkhead View Post
Failed at first hurdle trying to check temp…… there is no button to press on my instrument panel, I guess it was lost, and someone wedged a blanking plug in, which I have not been able to remove, as there is nothing to get hold of. Would never have noticed.



All hoses seem hot to touch, and coolant is up to level, checked using bleed point.



So I guess I have a bunged up matrix, or there is a thermostat problem.



But for now will leave it, as the car runs great, I love it, and don’t want to start cutting hoses etc, in case I get stuck.



Got my wife a big pair of fleece boots for an early Christmas pressie! So she is toasty in the car and…We are all happy!
You have a tripmeter right? The button to reset the mileage, that's the one

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Old 24th November 2023, 08:08   #9
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Thanks for suggestions, the tripmeter push is not present, that is why I cannot test the temp, and there is a blanking plug wedged in the hole, looks good but I can’t remove it.

If car is running well, but is at wrong temp, is that likely to be an issue, should I fit the inline thermostat from DMRGS as a way to ensure temp will be correct.
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Old 24th November 2023, 08:28   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caulkhead View Post
Thanks for suggestions, the tripmeter push is not present, that is why I cannot test the temp, and there is a blanking plug wedged in the hole, looks good but I can’t remove it.

Quote:
If car is running well, but is at wrong temp, is that likely to be an issue, should I fit the inline thermostat from DMRGS as a way to ensure temp will be correct.
You have a catch 22 problem, you first need to know what temp the engine is after a good 10 miles drive, the needle will stay at the 9.00oclock position weather it's 75c or 100c

If after the drive you are only getting a temp of lets say 75c to 80c then yes the inline stat will help, because the original stat is opening to early which is how they fail start opening to early for the engine to get to temp.

You need to re-instate the trip meter push button, or at least remove the blank plug and see it you can use something to activate it.

What IPK do you have fitted.
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