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Old 28th March 2023, 10:48   #61
Caskin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carole N View Post
Hello, could anyone give me some advice please? An old problem has recently resurfaced and it’s very concerning.

Lately it has been almost impossible to get the ignition key into the lock on the steering column of my T reg 75. It would just go in a few millimetres but hit something hard. The steering lock is on. For the last two weeks I’ve managed to wriggle the steering wheel gently but firmly towards the left and at the same time carefully try to insert the key after spraying a little WD-40 silicon lubricant into the barrel. It has worked then I’ve managed to get back-and-forth to work but I know it’s getting worse. Someone suggested leaving an ignition key in the barrel full time. I’ve reluctantly done that today and put a steering lock on the steering wheel but I’m wondering if this is wise after all. I read somewhere it may drain the battery.

I also read somewhere, though I can’t find the post again, that’s if left this problem could lock the steering while driving the car!

I’m not able to do very much at all on the car myself because I don’t have the know-how. I’ve owned the car for over 20 years and very reluctant to be beaten by this. The last six months I’ve had one problem after another and it’s been very challenging to get things fixed but one way or another they’ve got sorted. I really don’t want to have to let it go.
For advice only:WD40 is not in any way a lubricant and is the worse thing you can put in locks,its a water dispersing agent only!There are special oils on the market for use in locks,I can if you wish pass on the make of the one I use. NOTE:have just noticed you mention silicon WD 40 silicon,which is new to me and might be OK????
Incidetally this thread that you have joined is about the most comprihensive thread on the forum regarding this fault which has been the bane of many of our members!
You will find as we all have, that for resons unknown the culprit is the white locking plunger which unlocks and locks the steering,sometimes members use it as the locking point to remove steering wheel so placing it under too much strain.Not saying tis has been done in your case but it was in mine!
The answer is a change of barrel,remembering that new keys will require your original key electronics to operate door electronics,plus door lock will require changing to match new keys,it takes on the hassle of a small problem causing a bigish job..If interested I can via a PM pass on phone number of member who knows this problem inside out and can help.

A few tips from the experts!!Why is WD-40 Product bad for locks?
When you hear WD-40, almost always, the first thing that comes to mind is its first-ever formula—the multi-use product. Since its introduction, it has been used to remove rust in metal surfaces, lubricate moving parts, loosen rusted bolts, and remove duct tape on almost any surface. The components are mainly LVP aliphatic hydrocarbons (45–50%), petroleum-based oil (<35%), aliphatic hydrocarbons (<25%), and carbon dioxide (2-3%).
It is basically a water-displacing solution, but it's not considered a true lubricant. It produces its lubricant effect by removing rust and corrosion. Inadvertently, it also dries up the inside of the door mechanism as it also removes the scanty lubricant present. A dry lock mechanism coupled with more grime and dust coming in can further gunk up your lock.
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Purchased 52 plate V6 connie Wedgewood blue,one owner,42000 on clock ,Virtually pristine.2017 service,new Goodyear tyres,Discs and pads all round,new battery,New cam and timing belts (3rd fitting in life of car),plus full normal service.exhaust 2016.First mod was to bonnet catch .Latest mod,triple heart pace maker. All brake lines changed for copper, all brake hoses changed for Pagid hoses.

Last edited by Caskin; 28th March 2023 at 12:26..
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