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21st February 2021, 19:48 | #111 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
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A bit more info on the picture I posted in the above post.
Sometimes a garage mechanic will say----Trouble with your battery Sir ???---It's probably because it is sulphated up inside.--- Avoid this mechanic as he obviously doesn't know sulphate forms and vanishes when battery is in use. If it didn't no electricity would come out of your battery at all.--- If you follow the coloured lines in that picture it will tell you exactly what goes on inside your battery every day. |
22nd February 2021, 10:02 | #112 | |
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Quote:
If the switch side of a relay is energised - wiring fault then it will pull across the relay and energise the larger current draw.
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24th February 2021, 14:32 | #113 |
This is my second home
Lagoon 2.0 V6 75 Conn SE Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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I've been following this thread with interest, then today had a similar issue, but thankfully without being locked out of the car.
The poor old Rover has been sitting quietly under the car port for a few weeks due to a combination of the poor weather and having no where to go. Today, I decided to give her a quick dust off and opened the boot to get some of my detailing gear. So far so good. When I tried to lock the car though, nothing happened at all. I gave a couple of extra presses on the fob, and was greeted by a ticking sound from under the bonnet, at the rate of around 2 per second (sound familiar?). I disconnected the battery, and put it on charge. Then, after an hour or so, I put the battery back just to see if the ticking noise had stopped. It had, but was replaced by the alarm sounding instead (made me jump a little!). A quick press of the unlock button on the fob silenced the alarm, so I'm guessing the ticking noise was the car attempting to trigger the alarm but with insufficient battery power to do so. Battery is now off the car for a good long charge, which will hopefully sort the issue. Hope this helps a little, Cliff
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24th February 2021, 17:36 | #114 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012
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Quote:
Good thing your car was already unlocked otherwise you may have had the same issue with not being able to unlock it at all as Martin and myself had. |
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24th February 2021, 17:45 | #115 |
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MG ZT 2.0 CDTI+ in Typhoon, MG TF 135 in Typhoon & Rover 75 Connoisseur CDTI SE in Pearl Black Join Date: Oct 2012
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Little update from me Martin after our call yesterday.
I done a test on redfive today. Popped the bonnet open and then locked the car with the fob whilst I held the bonnet switch pressed down so it would think the bonnet is shut. Waited about 10 seconds and then took my finger off the switch to set the alarm off. If I then attempt to unlock the car with the key in the driver's door lock it unlocked fine. I then done the test again, set the alarm off and disconnected the battery (to replicate having a flat battery) and I was still able to unlock the driver's door with the key in the lock. So sadly my theory of maybe the locks not allowing you to unlock the driver's door with the key if the car is locked with the fob and the alarm's going off and the battery is dead didn't work unfortunately. So still baffled as to why we were both unable to unlock the door with the key in the driver's lock when the battery died. My door lock works perfectly fine. But when my battery died the door lock restricted how far I could turn the key in the lock. So to unlock the car via the keylock I can turn the key 90 degrees clockwise to unlock it. However when the battery died, I was only able to turn the key 45 degrees clockwise. It could not be turned any further no matter how hard I tried without breaking the key fob. |
24th February 2021, 18:33 | #116 | |
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Quote:
Simon
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24th February 2021, 22:59 | #117 |
Gets stuck in
MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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Thanks for the follow up Rick and the advice. I'm hoping to get stuck into this at the weekend and discover more and will post what happens. Current position is that the rear doors lock and unlock normally. The front passenger door the same manually but the mechanism was a little stiff, and the actuator solenoid is non-responsive. Driver's door is the conundrum.
The manual key will not open the manually locked drivers door. The interior handle also doesn't open the door, unless I leave the key in the barrel at the lock position (fully counter clockwise). Then two pulls of the interior handle and the door pops open. Now the door is unlocked, but the key is trapped in the barrel in a position just 20 degrees or less clockwise from full lock. As long as I leave the key in the lock in that position, the door opens and closes normally. The only way though to get the key out is to return it to the lock position slightly counterclockwise. I can now remove the key which renders inside and outside handles inoperative and the door is locked again. The only way to open the drivers door from the outside is to connect the battery and turn the key clockwise at the same time as operating the fob button and pulling the handle. Could I possibly have a faulty superlock situation? Further investigation clearly needed. I have a new passenger door actuator ready to fit so hopefully I'll have three working doors soon and can really focus on the drivers door then. So odd that all was well until the battery went flat! |
25th February 2021, 15:00 | #118 | |
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25th February 2021, 17:14 | #119 |
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Here's one theory on the door lock issue.
A flat battery isn't a non-existent battery. I.e. disconnecting the battery doesn't accurately simulate a flat battery. If there is some voltage present and an attempt is made to unlock the car with the remote is it maybe possible that the doorlock solenoid is moving (even if only slightly), just not far enough to unlock the door: and that an unfortunate side effect of this is to block the mechanical unlock mechanisms? There's something to go and experiment with!
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25th February 2021, 19:31 | #120 |
Posted a thing or two
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great thread, lots to ponder. And yes, I cheered when you finally got back in
My experience with Rover 75 alarms and flat batteries is enormous. The battery has gone flat many times on both cars. This is what I've learned - If the battery goes flat with the car locked and alarmed on the fob, the alarm will sound when the negative lead touches the battery post....... have fob ready to unlock. If I know the battery is going to go flat I open with the fob, but lock the drivers door with the key blade. After battery has gone flat and fob doesn't work, I recharge the battery, and this time when reconnecting it, the alarm doesn't sound. Something else..... If the car is locked and alarmed with the fob, then I open the drivers door with the key blade, she lulls me into a sense of false security, then the alarm suddenly goes off. Didn't know about the technique of opening the window with the key blade. Might try that for fun next time I'm out
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