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3rd February 2016, 13:32 | #21 | |
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Quote:
Did you cover the whole of the inside of the doors with the 4mm silentcoat, or just add dampener pads to the middle of the outer door skin/panel ? Thanks for a bit more detail Pete[/QUOTE] i went for, and got, about 75% coverage of the whole inner skin, as it wasn't easy getting the bits in there. That's what tjhey recommended in the instructions for this stuff too
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3rd February 2016, 17:16 | #22 |
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When I dropped the roof lining on one of my previous Tourers to sort another problem I noticed there was little or no sound proofing. While the roof lining was down I glued in some 10mm sheets of high density foam and it made a big difference. Can't remember where the stuff came from: I just had it lying around.
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4th February 2016, 11:23 | #23 |
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What's "Silentcoat" and where is it available from.
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4th February 2016, 12:03 | #24 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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Just go to Amazon and search for silentcoat soundproofing, and it will come up.
Six sheets of 4mm door soundproofing material costs about 25 pounds. Pete |
8th February 2016, 08:27 | #25 |
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Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008
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I fitted the underbonnet and boot compartment sound proofing yesterday - the boot soundproofing makes a big difference - this comprises 6mm silentcoat sheets over the wheel arches and in the spare wheel well, with some squares of this material on the inner wings, followed by a 10mm thick dodomat that goes under the boot carpet - really kills a lot of noise from the rear end. I am not sure the underbonnet makes a big difference (this was just 6mm silentcoat pads cut to the shape of the bonnet cut outs under the factory-fitted under-bonnet soundproofing).
I lifted the edge of the carpets to try to fit the floor sound deadening pads, but I really need to take the seats out to get them in properly, so that will have to wait for anther day. There seemed to be a reasonable amount of sound deadening under the carpet - about a 10mm thick layer of what looked like loft insulation/lagging material. I am not sure how good this is at killing noise - I hope the Dodomats under the carpets will make a difference. I have not tackled the doors yet- I need to summon up the courage to tackle the door card removal/replacement ! Pete |
8th February 2016, 17:53 | #26 | |
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I got a bit of improvement there. I am also sceptical about the underbonnet one. I did it but dont think it improved anything. Another one you might like to try is get underneath the car, drop down the exhaust heat shields then line the exhaust tunnel with silent coat with dodo on top then put the heat shields back. This reduced my exhaust boom slightly on the 2002 car. Made no difference at all on the 2001 car, but that could well be because it has an extra silencer box on it. Despite all the extra work i did on the 2002 car it is still not as quiet as the 2001 one, but certainly getting closer. Like you i intend to do the doors eventually, but just waiting for another excuse to get the door cards off, but since i refitted them soon after getting the car they havent needed to come off again. |
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9th February 2016, 08:31 | #27 |
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Thanks for all the suggestions, David. I'll certainly think about the Dodomat on the bulkhead. I'll get the cabin floor and doors done first, then see how it goes.
I agree there is a staggering difference in refinement between early and late cars - the only definite changes were the thinner carpet and omission of the parcel shelf soundproofing, but I think I also read somewhere that thinner door cards were used on non-PPD cars. I also think the boot carpet was much thinner on later models, but it is hard to find out exactly what changed over the years. Thanks again, and I'll keep you posted Pete |
9th February 2016, 18:08 | #28 | |
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9th February 2016, 18:21 | #29 | |
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9th February 2016, 18:31 | #30 | |
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Pete |
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