Anti-seize, when NOT to use it?

[Frogmella]

As you will know if you've read my posts I'm NOT a mechanic. My car has been neglected in the past and every nut I have to undo is welded on. As I replace them I'm putting a dab of copper crease on the the threads for next time.

Are there any bolts that should not have anti-seize applied? Which are they?

[Plezier]

The nut behind the wheel for one .

Personally if they are that bad then I would be replacing nuts and bolts.

[T-Cut]

It's a good question and I suspect there are differing views on it. Purely torque critical threads are usually considered as not lubricated. The road wheel bolts are a good example. But I always use a smear of copper lube on them. General nuts and bolts are best given a dab of lube IMO.

Maybe worth a read: http://www.fastorq.com/uncategorized...ad-lubricants/

TC

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

It's a good question and I suspect there are differing views on it. Purely torque critical threads are usually considered as not lubricated. The road wheel bolts are a good example. But I always use a smear of copper lube on them. General nuts and bolts are best given a dab of lube IMO.

Maybe worth a read: http://www.fastorq.com/uncategorized...ad-lubricants/

TC

I HAVE recently put copper grease on my wheel bolts before torquing them up properly. In the past I've been stuck at the roadside with a flat, without a socket and breaker bar, and have been unable to budge the darn things with the short onboard tool.

[SCP440]

The wheel nut question comes up on the Jensen regularly as the nuts are alloy and the studs are steel with a torque loading of only 55lbft's.

I will only say I have been copper greasing mine for 16 years and have never had a wheel nut come loose even with this low torque loading so as far as I am concerned it goes on every thread.

The biggest benefit is to use it on exhaust studs/nuts. To just be able to undo these without worrying there are going to snap off flush with the head.

[clf]

when it comes to wheel nuts, I generally put a a line of grease straight down the threads. Just a smear on my fingertip. As it turns it spreads it lightly around. Then a smear around the shoulder of the bolts to resist any fusing against the alloy wheel.

Too much grease I believe could cause issues with torquing (as T-Cut mentions)

[kaiser]

If you expect to ever remove that nut again in your lifetime, use copper grease or similar.

Just do it.!

[T-Cut]

Any amount of lube of any type reduces friction in the threads. This affects the torque required for a certain thread penetration. A molybdenum disulphide based lube for example, the torque for acheiving a specific thread travel is reduced by 60%. Thankfully, most situations on a car arn't that critical, so the use or otherwise of a lube is personal preference. I always lube the wheel bolts and torque them as specified, but the result will be tighter than I'd get with clean dry threads. A Google search will find lots of literature for anyone interested in thread lubrication/torque.

TC

[COLVERT]

Just about all of them except-------------------those the manufacturer says put Thread Lock on.---

If you do lubricate your wheel bolts DON'T lubricate the taper section that buts against the wheel itself.

Otherwise you might hear somebody say--Your wheel went-- ---thataway.

[kaiser]

Well, that reminds me of one item, as Colvert says.
When using a single central nut on wire wheels, use grease on the thread and on the splines, but nothing on the cone section at the back.
The cone is supposed to provide some friction in addition to the grip by the splines, and if you grease the whole section, you will eventually damage the unit and the wheel.