Trailing Arm Bolts

[Mike Noc]

Both rear upper arms need replacing for the MOT, along with a few other bits and bobs, so had a go at getting them out today.

The hub top bolts to the outer lower arms on both sides are seized solid in the upper link balls.

Had the same on one of the donor arms when I was getting it off so cut through both ends of the bolt. Tried to hammer what was left of the bolt but it wasn't having any of it, so looks like a new pair of upper link balls.

Have left them soaking overnight in Plus Gas, so will have another go tomorrow, and if they don't budge I'll be getting the grinder out.

[mininuts]

Had one side do the same on mine. I was replacing the joints anyway so cut joint away with a grinder then warmed the area and drifted what was left of the bolt out.
Went ok...no issues

[macafee2]

Had one of mine do the same. I kept hitting it and eventually hammered the bolt along with the middle of the bush out leaving the outer ring of the bush in place.

good luck

macafee2

[T16]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Both rear upper arms need replacing for the MOT, along with a few other bits and bobs, so had a go at getting them out today.

The hub top bolts to the outer lower arms on both sides are seized solid in the upper link balls.

Had the same on one of the donor arms when I was getting it off so cut through both ends of the bolt. Tried to hammer what was left of the bolt but it wasn't having any of it, so looks like a new pair of upper link balls.

Have left them soaking overnight in Plus Gas, so will have another go tomorrow, and if they don't budge I'll be getting the grinder out.

How did the upper arm to subframe bolts go?

[macafee2]

Mike, do you want a hand? I owe you one

macafee2?

[marinabrian]

Mike, my experience of these is fairly common one, and how I approach it is a follows.

1 tear off the rubber boots from the rose joint bush.
2 with a stout drift and lump hammer, belt around the periphery of the tube forming the centre of the bush rotating frequently to ensure the rust formation is pulverised.
3 grind a pair of flats on the exposed tube, to enable a spanner to be fitted to prevent the tube turning with the bolt.
4 Apply heat with a blowlamp, then go for it.

You will need two new bushes, but they are not dear......LINK and I'm sure with our array of bush pullers you have will contain the required 45mm mandrel to pull the new bush in.

It took me four hours of concerted effort to do the first one of these, in an attempt to save the bush, but in reality the bushes on your car will more than likely be worn, and replacement transforms the sloppy back end feel that creeps up on these cars

Have fun

Brian

[T16]

Am I the only one that drilled them out?! :p

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by T16

Am I the only one that drilled them out?! :p

Probably Ross

What i'd like to know is how you managed to drill accurately through the centre of an M12x100 10.9 tensile strength bolt, while fitted to the car without damaging the surrounding bush?

This is a rhetorical question, the answer is it simply is not possible

Brian

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by T16

How did the upper arm to subframe bolts go?

Slowly! Plenty of Plus Gas and effort and they eventually freed off.

Originally Posted by macafee2

Mike, do you want a hand? I owe you one

macafee2?

Many thanks for the kind offer Ian, but I'll have them out in the morning, one way or the other.

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Mike, my experience of these is fairly common one, and how I approach it is a follows.

1 tear off the rubber boots from the rose joint bush.
2 with a stout drift and lump hammer, belt around the periphery of the tube forming the centre of the bush rotating frequently to ensure the rust formation is pulverised.
3 grind a pair of flats on the exposed tube, to enable a spanner to be fitted to prevent the tube turning with the bolt.
4 Apply heat with a blowlamp, then go for it.

You will need two new bushes, but they are not dear......LINK and I'm sure with our array of bush pullers you have will contain the required 45mm mandrel to pull the new bush in.

It took me four hours of concerted effort to do the first one of these, in an attempt to save the bush, but in reality the bushes on your car will more than likely be worn, and replacement transforms the sloppy back end feel that creeps up on these cars

Have fun

Brian

Thanks Bri - one of the rose joints has seized anyway, so both will get replaced.

Luckily I bought a comprehensive puller kit some time ago so no problem with the correct sized mandrel.

[T16]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Probably Ross

What i'd like to know is how you managed to drill accurately through the centre of an M12x100 10.9 tensile strength bolt, while fitted to the car without damaging the surrounding bush?

This is a rhetorical question, the answer is it simply is not possible

Brian

Tungsten carbide burr.... plus small bit to start with. Surrounding shell of the bolt could eventually could be knocked out with a round punch, no damage to bush, well nothing visible.

For some reason it was nowhere near as bad as the front shock pinch bolt. These burrs cut through Rover bolts like butter.

I can't locate my fathers bush pressing kit since he died, I will replace the bushes when I do my rear, any heads up on one that has the right mandrel for the Rover rear bushes?