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Old 7th February 2021, 16:16   #1
Cantray
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Default 75 cdt wont start

Hi all
Looking for help. My 75 cdt wont start. Was running perfectly when i took it off the road a couple of months back. I disconnected battery to stop it running down as i knew i would not be using for some weeks. Now turns over but wont start. battery is fine. In tank pump replaced a few thousand miles back and can hear it running. UBP running and excellent flow from fuel filter outlet. Tacho twitches on turnover. No unusual warning lights. Interestingly odo reads 999999 but service indicator correct. ECU not flooded. key is working ( dont have spare). Have not tried easy start yet ..... Any advice / suggestions? Thanks!
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Old 7th February 2021, 16:23   #2
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On the sites it appears to be battery spike problem and cannot be reset by a T4 - see link below

https://www.mg-rover.org/threads/odo...r-fail.625434/
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Old 7th February 2021, 16:24   #3
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https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=174160

And here - are you confident the battery is OK?
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Old 7th February 2021, 16:27   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantray View Post
Hi all
Looking for help. My 75 cdt wont start. Was running perfectly when i took it off the road a couple of months back. I disconnected battery to stop it running down as i knew i would not be using for some weeks. Now turns over but wont start. battery is fine. In tank pump replaced a few thousand miles back and can hear it running. UBP running and excellent flow from fuel filter outlet. Tacho twitches on turnover. No unusual warning lights. Interestingly odo reads 999999 but service indicator correct. ECU not flooded. key is working ( dont have spare). Have not tried easy start yet ..... Any advice / suggestions? Thanks!
Is the battery turning it over at a good rate?
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Old 7th February 2021, 16:35   #5
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Thanks, yes its turning over fine. Battery is fairly new and shows 13.2 on my multimeter. BTW I always disconnect negative first when removing battery.
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Old 7th February 2021, 18:23   #6
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At the same time the IPK was spiked, it's likely the ECM lost it's pairing with the immobiliser.

All of these things can be sorted out fairly easily though

Brian
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Old 8th February 2021, 08:36   #7
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Thanks all for your advice. It's the starting problem I'm still stuck with. I will follow Jules advice from older thread here:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=143059

... and start again from beginning. The tanks is showing a quarter full and I suppose I can't assume that in tank pump is actually pumping just because I can hear it working.

On this point, can anyone explain why the UBP can cope without help from the the in-tank pump when the tank is full, but not when the level in the tank falls?

will post again when fixed.
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Old 8th February 2021, 13:10   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cantray View Post
Thanks all for your advice. It's the starting problem I'm still stuck with. I will follow Jules advice from older thread here:

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=143059

... and start again from beginning. The tanks is showing a quarter full and I suppose I can't assume that in tank pump is actually pumping just because I can hear it working.

On this point, can anyone explain why the UBP can cope without help from the the in-tank pump when the tank is full, but not when the level in the tank falls?

will post again when fixed.
Lots of pumps have maximum lift and suction values so that the right pump can be selected for varying situations.

The under bonnet pump chosen by Rover has proved not to be man enough to do the job on its own without the help of the in-tank pump.--When the in-tank pump fails the UBP tries to do the job but early failure is the result of trying to work on its own.---

Last edited by COLVERT; 9th February 2021 at 22:46..
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Old 9th February 2021, 10:55   #9
Mike Noc
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Originally Posted by Cantray View Post

On this point, can anyone explain why the UBP can cope without help from the the in-tank pump when the tank is full, but not when the level in the tank falls?

will post again when fixed.
There are two valves on top of the in tank pump - one is normally closed and is an overpressure bypass, and the other is normally open and is a priming valve which closes when the ITP is running as it is closed by fuel pressure from the pump.

When the tank level falls below the top of the ITP it exposes the priming valve, and if the ITP isn't running it is still open so all the UBP sucks is air.
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Old 9th February 2021, 14:06   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
There are two valves on top of the in tank pump - one is normally closed and is an overpressure bypass, and the other is normally open and is a priming valve which closes when the ITP is running as it is closed by fuel pressure from the pump.

When the tank level falls below the top of the ITP it exposes the priming valve, and if the ITP isn't running it is still open so all the UBP sucks is air.
Mike that makes perfect sense thank you.

As i have strong flow from filter outlet I suspect therefore its not an in tank pump issue. But have added 10 litres anyway and will work my way through algorithm when the weather warms up a bit. -6 here this morning.
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