Full pump failing ?

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Dibdob69

Got a problem with my diesel 75, Just given it a good service inc fuel filter and it ran fine on the 1st day

Day 2 after standing on the brakes hard a few times trying to stop the brake peddle pulsing (didn't work ) the check engine light came on and the car would not rev, Limped the car home and found the EGR pipe had split, l had fitted a EGR bypass so l removed the pipe completely and fitted the blanking plate to the exhaust manifold.

Car is running better but it hesitates/misses slightly when pulling away or accelerating under 1500rpm.

Took it to my local garage and they found code P0110 Intake Air Temp Sensor which is the MAF sensor (i think) which was unplugged because I had fitted what l was told was a MAF less remapped ECU.

Anyway l have plugged the MAF back in but its still playing up.

One other thing that flashed up but disappeared was ITP Failing but all the stuff I have read about ITP failing is the engine stops at 1/4 full tank.

My fuel tank is a the 1/4 full mark.

Do these symptoms suggest fuel pump failure or could it be something else ?

I'll let you know what I find today, I'm going to have a look at a car with problems that has similar issues.

If you still have the original ECU, I would refit it until you can accurately diagnose any underlying issues with the car.

The ITP as you suspect it may be an issue, chuck a couple of gallons in the car to negate any problems of fuel starvation at the quarter tank mark.

One of the problems if you are attempting to accurately pinpoint a problem is not taking a methodical approach, so make a list do one thing at a time and cross off the list as you go.

Best of luck

Brian

[Dibdob69]

Quick update,

I tried to go to work in it yesterday, Ran fine for the first mile then the revs dropped to tick over only, But tick over is higher than normal at around 1,200rpm, Managed to limp it home on

One other thing l noticed is it does smell very much of carbon/exhaust even when not running ?

[Arctic]

[QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Dibdob69

Off a reputable rover tuner and l still have my original ECU.[/QUOTE

]

If you still have your original ECU then put that on and see it it drives as it should, if it does then you found the problem ECU Mafless map.

Why have another ECU when you could of just had the original ECU mapped ? if you original ECU works then ask them for a refund and go somewhere else if you want a remap, maybe have the 160 upgrade from here on the club.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Dibdob69

Quick update,

I tried to go to work in it yesterday, Ran fine for the first mile then the revs dropped to tick over only, But tick over is higher than normal at around 1,200rpm, Managed to limp it home on

One other thing l noticed is it does smell very much of carbon/exhaust even when not running ?

One of the "side effects" I noticed yesterday when diagnosing a car which had been the recipient of a "MAFless" remap, was the presence of a throttle demand pedal voltage anomaly.

It may well be unconnected, but I was less than impressed at the crudity of what had been done to increase power in the case of the car I was working on yesterday

The most likely culprit, assuming you change back to the standard ECM and there is no difference is this item......LINK and best of all it's an easy thing to fit

Best of luck

Brian

[Dibdob69]

[QUOTE=Arctic;2863965]

]

If you still have your original ECU then put that on and see it it drives as it should, if it does then you found the problem ECU Mafless map.

Why have another ECU when you could of just had the original ECU mapped ? if you original ECU works then ask them for a refund and go somewhere else if you want a remap, maybe have the 160 upgrade from here on the club.

Put the old ECU back on yesterday and it ran like a dream Jumped in it this morning and the problem was back

[COLVERT]

Might be a poor electrical problem that was made good for a short while when you were moving things about.

Gone back to be a poor connection again.-- If the ECU doesn't receive all the signals it needs then it can cut down the revs to prevent potential engine damage.

Make sure all sensor connections are good.

[Dibdob69]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Might be a poor electrical problem that was made good for a short while when you were moving things about.

Gone back to be a poor connection again.-- If the ECU doesn't receive all the signals it needs then it can cut down the revs to prevent potential engine damage.

Make sure all sensor connections are good.

What sensor's am l looking for ? Sorry I'm new to these cars

[Arctic]

Hi Mark.
I have answered you PM and advised you to go to one of the guru, also i had a rover with the pedal problem, change the pedal same problem limp mode, now you have the original ECU in the car try unplugging the MAF.

That's what we did with the one we had the problem with it cured it, so it turned out to be the MAF at least it will cost you nowt to unplug the MAF

Get a full refund from you know who hopefully he will give you hes banned on here.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Mark.
I have answered you PM and advised you to go to one of the guru, also i had a rover with the pedal problem, change the pedal same problem limp mode, now you have the original ECU in the car try unplugging the MAF.

That's what we did with the one we had the problem with it cured it, so it turned out to be the MAF at least it will cost you nowt to unplug the MAF

Get a full refund from you know who hopefully he will give you hes banned on here.

Here is a strange one Steve, the ECM I replaced for a lad on Saturday I've now repaired and have it coded in on test to my ZT.

The owner of the car had a "MAFless" remap carried out at the same time that he had a replacement key made.

When you look at the live data with the MAF plugged in the figures look exactly the same as a standard ECM, and with the MAF unplugged the live data shows the lack if IAT sensor and the ECM reverting to it's default settings.

Originally the car from which this ECM originated was a 116PS variant, the replacement ECM was coded as a 131PS version after changing the ZCS coding to suit, and the owner was quite impressed with the performance, something I'm not blown away by in regards to the one which I removed....

Getting back to the point of failed MAF sensors, there is a specific mode in the case of an automatic car, in which a failed MAF has a direct affect upon the demand pedal pot2 which shows at idle .760 volts, as opposed to around .380 volts, and the car will not rev whatsoever.

Unplugging the MAF restores normal operation to the throttle demand pedal.

Brian

[Dibdob69]

After waiting a week for the weather to warm up a little l think I've found the problem

After reading an old post stating "a CDT will start with rail sensor disconnected (but won't rev)" I disconnected the sensor, inspected the wiring and found this (see picture) an exposed wire.

Fixed it and the car seems to be running fine now, Fingers crossed