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Old 11th May 2021, 07:37   #61
SD1too
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TourerSteve View Post
... on a a nut that is not torque critical ...
That may be your opinion Steve, but MG Rover disagrees.

Simon
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Old 11th May 2021, 08:03   #62
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I asked the length because you said you had about 18mm gap so even the original rover ones won't fit.
How did the factory fit them , I doubt if they mucked about with bike spanners or cutting the threads down

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Old 11th May 2021, 08:11   #63
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Originally Posted by TourerSteve View Post
My point exactly, Simon as discounted spanner tightening as an approximate torque but using a crows foot has just the same potential
on a a nut that is not torque critical as long as it is sufficiently tight.

To get the correct clamping force the nut actually stretches the bolt, in some applications the torque is critical to get an even, consistent and repeatable clamping force, cyl head, in others not so critical.


Keeping to a torque setting also prevents stretching a bolt beyond its limits.


For every fastener made and there are hundreds on such as a car, there will be a torque setting, on dash trim, engine, door locks, everything, yet can anyone hold their hand up and say they torque every fastener they touch...........me neither.


With time, experience, snapped bolts and bruised knuckles, folk get a feel for most fasteners and situations, as with the drop links and if you don't want the nut to come loose, that's what good old Locktite was invented for, on the other hand I've seen folk torque something up till the wrench clicks, then give it another 1/8th or so of a turn, "Just to be on the safe side " , like adding another shovel of soap powder to get a better wash.


There will be hundreds of thousands of vehicles trundling around where fastener ' tightness' has been guessed, some even tightened with a hammer and chisel !



At least we don't have to 'mike up' big end cap bolts to measure the stretch like what I had to do on many a motorbike engine in the olden days.
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Old 11th May 2021, 10:14   #64
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I cut down a couple of sockets so any spanner can be used where you can't get a socket in. Norbar's length calculator downloaded on the phone and you don't even have to do the sums.



In all honesty though I don't bother with drop link upper nuts - you'd have to go some to overtighten them, and if they are loose they will let you know by rattling well before they come off.

Just ensure they are tight and you are good to go.
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Old 11th May 2021, 13:10   #65
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Talking about spanners, i had a great bargain today, took wife to dentist while she was there i took a little walk round the town street markets, and spent £15 below is my haul.

Brittool spanners £5 which may get ground down ;

1

2

Various drill bits and dye tool plus bar £5
3

Pump action screwdriver £5
4
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Old 11th May 2021, 13:25   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ducati750cc View Post

At least we don't have to 'mike up' big end cap bolts to measure the stretch like what I had to do on many a motorbike engine in the olden days.
Was only recently that I had to plastigauge and shim up big end caps on a vintage engine, Makes me wonder how many modern engines will be running in the years to come ?
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Old 11th May 2021, 13:31   #67
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
That may be your opinion Steve, but MG Rover disagrees.

Simon
MG rover in an official workshop manual should have every bolt torque value .
A competent technician will know the critical fasteners he will always torque , Others not so critical he will tighten
When you had the spring removed, can't understand why you didn't fit the top end of the drop link to the strut. You could then have easily tightened it with a socket

Last edited by TourerSteve; 11th May 2021 at 13:46..
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Old 11th May 2021, 14:14   #68
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That may be your opinion Steve, but MG Rover disagrees.

Simon

So.. you are following mgr’s procedures for torque settings but not when it comes to their suggested frequency for cambelt changes...

Ya can’t have it both ways Simon.
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Old 12th May 2021, 06:46   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbr1100xx View Post
How did the factory fit them ...
I expect that they were attached before the spring was fitted so supplied to MGR as part of the strut assembly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TourerSteve View Post
When you had the spring removed, can't understand why you didn't fit the top end of the drop link to the strut. You could then have easily tightened it with a socket
That's one of those things that sounds fine in theory but is rather different in practice. The reason is that a dangling anti-roll bar link prevents the strut being held securely in the vise to compress the spring.

Simon
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Old 12th May 2021, 06:55   #70
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So.. you are following mgr’s procedures for torque settings but not when it comes to their suggested frequency for cambelt changes...
I am following MGR's frequency for cambelt changes, every 90,000 miles. What I don't accept is the six year rule because if they'll last 90,000 miles in five years, why won't they last 90,000 miles in six and a half years? Furthermore, I have proved that they will actually last for at least 19 years so the six years is nonsense. It's based upon marketing considerations and unfounded fear, not engineering principles.

But Andy, and the others who have "thanked" you for your comment, let's not open that can of worms again. The subject has been done to death and will only result in a moderator closing down this thread which is about fitting anti-roll bar links.

Thank you.

Simon
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