The best paint for rear suspension parts

Bob Walker · 16th May 2021, 15:04

Dear All
Before I replace all my rear suspension please could anyone advise me on the best black paint to coat them before I bolt them in.
I look forward to the advice.
Bob

suzublu · 16th May 2021, 15:08

Have a look at Bilt Hamber products Bob, it's what I'll be using before I fit mine.

Zinc primer followed by a choice of finishes

Lee T · 16th May 2021, 15:14

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202434926...26.m5232.l9681
Try this stuff for your base coat, it's really good.

macafee2 · 16th May 2021, 16:23

por15

macafee2

mbonwick · 16th May 2021, 18:13

Bonda rust primer (2 coats), then Manor Chassis Black (3-4 coats), then a coat of stonechip and finally if you're feeling flash, a coat of underbody wax of your preference.

SCP440 · 16th May 2021, 19:41

I will second the Por 15.

Buy disposable brushes and do it all in one go as the remaining paint will go off in a few days even in a resealed tin.

Once allowed to cure I challenge anyone to remove it, sticks like the proverbial to a blanket.

A friend used it on his Land Rover that he uses for off road trialling on the chassis and suspension, a quick pressure wash and it looks like the day he did it.

Ducati750cc · 16th May 2021, 20:54

I'm just working on a 75 from back to front.

Anything new is given a spray coat of epoxy primer then 2k black.

Anything taken off to be re-used is de-rusted by electrolysis, in a sodium carbonate solution and a quick wire brush then coated as above.

Any parts that won't, or can't be removed but need painting are wire brushed then epoxy primer and the 2k is applied by brush, this is quicker, neater and easier than the hours of masking many components needed for spraying.

Once the painting is done, new, used or fixed items have a blast of Waxoil in any cavities.

Then depending on the item or position, all the floor pan and some suspension components will have a coat of underseal, some will be left in gloss, next a final round with the Waxoil in all the unreachable nooks and crannies, sills, door bottoms etc and it should be OK for another 16 years.

When it's finished I'll start a thread of all the fun I've had doing it.

I use either citric acid, sodium carbonate ( as above ) or phosphoric acid to treat any rust, depending on where it is and how severe.

16th May 2021, 15:04	#1
Bob Walker Loves to post MGZT Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Richmond Posts: 255 Thanks: 26 Thanked 80 Times in 45 Posts	The best paint for rear suspension parts Dear All Before I replace all my rear suspension please could anyone advise me on the best black paint to coat them before I bolt them in. I look forward to the advice. Bob

16th May 2021, 15:14	#3
Lee T Gets stuck in MG ZT Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Liverpool Posts: 850 Thanks: 180 Thanked 248 Times in 189 Posts	https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202434926...26.m5232.l9681 Try this stuff for your base coat, it's really good. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

16th May 2021, 20:54	#7
Ducati750cc Loves to post Rover75 tourer Join Date: Jun 2018 Location: Ashton Posts: 428 Thanks: 121 Thanked 206 Times in 145 Posts	I'm just working on a 75 from back to front. Anything new is given a spray coat of epoxy primer then 2k black. Anything taken off to be re-used is de-rusted by electrolysis, in a sodium carbonate solution and a quick wire brush then coated as above. Any parts that won't, or can't be removed but need painting are wire brushed then epoxy primer and the 2k is applied by brush, this is quicker, neater and easier than the hours of masking many components needed for spraying. Once the painting is done, new, used or fixed items have a blast of Waxoil in any cavities. Then depending on the item or position, all the floor pan and some suspension components will have a coat of underseal, some will be left in gloss, next a final round with the Waxoil in all the unreachable nooks and crannies, sills, door bottoms etc and it should be OK for another 16 years. When it's finished I'll start a thread of all the fun I've had doing it. I use either citric acid, sodium carbonate ( as above ) or phosphoric acid to treat any rust, depending on where it is and how severe. __________________ Common sense isn't a gift, it's a punishment because you have to deal with everyone who doesn't have it.

16th May 2021, 15:08	#2
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Have a look at Bilt Hamber products Bob, it's what I'll be using before I fit mine. Zinc primer followed by a choice of finishes

16th May 2021, 16:23	#4
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	por15 macafee2

16th May 2021, 18:13	#5
mbonwick Gets stuck in Connoisseur SE 1.8 Auto Saloon Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Kendal Posts: 633 Thanks: 129 Thanked 176 Times in 147 Posts	Bonda rust primer (2 coats), then Manor Chassis Black (3-4 coats), then a coat of stonechip and finally if you're feeling flash, a coat of underbody wax of your preference.

16th May 2021, 19:41	#6
SCP440 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T 260 Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Witney Posts: 2,504 Thanks: 6 Thanked 910 Times in 571 Posts	I will second the Por 15. Buy disposable brushes and do it all in one go as the remaining paint will go off in a few days even in a resealed tin. Once allowed to cure I challenge anyone to remove it, sticks like the proverbial to a blanket. A friend used it on his Land Rover that he uses for off road trialling on the chassis and suspension, a quick pressure wash and it looks like the day he did it.