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Old 16th February 2021, 16:36   #1
roverbarmy
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Default SGS jacking beam?

Does anyone use one of these? I don't like the look of the way it seems to sag on the extension pieces. It may be just the way that it looks on the pics. I'm tempted to knock something up out of RHS but at the price, it will probably cost me more than the SGS beam???


https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjb2...SABEgIqLvD_BwE


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Old 16th February 2021, 20:02   #2
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Could be an optical illusion or maybe the sliding tolerances make it look like that.--You will only be putting on half its rated capacity so there shouldn't be any problems.

The manufacturer appears to be trustworthy.---

Don't forget to chock your back wheels as well as using your hand brake.--
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Old 16th February 2021, 20:58   #3
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The droop is just down to the difference in dimensions. I've had a couple of SGS bits in the past and they've been okay.
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Old 17th February 2021, 06:20   #4
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Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
Does anyone use one of these? I don't like the look of the way it seems to sag on the extension pieces. It may be just the way that it looks on the pics. I'm tempted to knock something up out of RHS but at the price, it will probably cost me more than the SGS beam???


https://www.sgs-engineering.com/tjb2...SABEgIqLvD_BwE



The sagging looks like it is just the clearance between the inner and outer box sections.
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Old 17th February 2021, 08:25   #5
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As Roverbarmy says, no way could I make one for that price, and I have all the machinery required, on tap.

I shall probably order one, thanks for the heads up.

Mike
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Old 17th February 2021, 08:27   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Could be an optical illusion or maybe the sliding tolerances make it look like that.--You will only be putting on half its rated capacity so there shouldn't be any problems.

The manufacturer appears to be trustworthy.---

Don't forget to chock your back wheels as well as using your hand brake.--
mmmm you need to check if the jack rolls or the car rolls when the jack is being raised. I think the jack should roll but due to the surface it is sitting on it may not and in fact the car rolls towards the jack when the jack is being raised. However putting the handbrake on may force the jack to roll towards the car. This is particularly important when jacking under the jacking pad, imagine the jack not rolling towards the side of the car. Does not bear thinking about

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Old 17th February 2021, 08:43   #7
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Cheap enough HERE

I made the investment in a decent low entry trolley jack from Costco a couple of years ago.

If you need to jack both sides of the car simultaneously, I use a 1' long 6x6" block of timber, a fencepost cutoff to bridge the "tunnel" section of the rear subframe where the exhaust runs, then jack the car there.

I did this yesterday when replacing an upper rear arm in a hurry for a local member who's car had failed the MOT.

Often when looking at gadgets like this, I think that the faff in setting up might well outweigh the perceived benefits.

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Old 17th February 2021, 17:47   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
mmmm you need to check if the jack rolls or the car rolls when the jack is being raised. I think the jack should roll but due to the surface it is sitting on it may not and in fact the car rolls towards the jack when the jack is being raised. However putting the handbrake on may force the jack to roll towards the car. This is particularly important when jacking under the jacking pad, imagine the jack not rolling towards the side of the car. Does not bear thinking about

macafee2
My 3 ton trolley jack is on 4 wheels (2 fixed and 2 castor type) and always rolls so that it lifts straight up.
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Old 17th February 2021, 19:42   #9
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My 3 ton trolley jack is on 4 wheels (2 fixed and 2 castor type) and always rolls so that it lifts straight up.
My trolley jack also has four wheels. I always put a steel sheet under the wheels so the jack can move easily and will maintain the vertical load.---
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