CDT low power problem

[Kamil93]

Hello all,

I have a long term trouble with power of my 2000 CDT. I use the car for 4 years, the problem with low power under 2000revs was there since I bought it.

Since that, I have changed intercooler O rings for vitton ones. Changed the MAF for genuine Bosch (which was the only one significant improvement). I was pretty satisfied with the performance by this time for about 2 years.

Now the problem is back. No power low down until the turbo kicks in. I have cleaned, changed and disconnected the EGR. Put on another perfectly cleaned manifold, cleaned the MAP sensor. Changed the O rings again. Checked EGR big hose - no splits visible. In the end, I replaced another new MAF.

The problem still persist. The regular maintenance is more than usuall.

If I unplug the MAF, the power is back, of course with a bad smoke indeed.

Any suggestions what to check please ? What do I miss ? I am out of ideas now.

Thanks !

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Kamil93

Hello all,

I have a long term trouble with power of my 2000 CDT. I use the car for 4 years, the problem with low power under 2000revs was there since I bought it.

Since that, I have changed intercooler O rings for vitton ones. Changed the MAF for genuine Bosch (which was the only one significant improvement). I was pretty satisfied with the performance by this time for about 2 years.

Now the problem is back. No power low down until the turbo kicks in. I have cleaned, changed and disconnected the EGR. Put on another perfectly cleaned manifold, cleaned the MAP sensor. Changed the O rings again. Checked EGR big hose - no splits visible. In the end, I replaced another new MAF.

The problem still persist. The regular maintenance is more than usuall.

If I unplug the MAF, the power is back, of course with a bad smoke indeed.

Any suggestions what to check please ? What do I miss ? I am out of ideas now.

Thanks !

Where did you source the MAF sensor from, are you 100%, it is a genuine Bosch one.?

[Kamil93]

The first one was from on-line autoparts. Looked perfectly genuine. Car was fine for some time. The current one is insert by DMGRS.

[COLVERT]

How about the inter-cooler hose ??

[Kamil93]

I checked that. No visible splits. Of course it doesn’t guarantee there arent any. It’s my last idea. But dont want to throw money on it yet.

[Number 6]

Have you re-checked the turbo lower seals since they were fitted?, They have been known to "Pop" out if not fitted correctly.. Search Artic's How to on fitting them.

[boater]

Surely you have found the problem yourself - you say that now if you remove the connection to the MAF the power is restored but with more smoke. This shows the MAF you are using is faulty and needs replacing. If the one you have was bought recently from DMGRS have a word with Matt and ask for a replacement because it is faulty.

[Kamil93]

Originally Posted by Number 6

Have you re-checked the turbo lower seals since they were fitted?, They have been known to "Pop" out if not fitted correctly.. Search Artic's How to on fitting them.

Yes, I have rechecked. It’s tight. I know that already, dont ask me how I know
Anyway, thanks for your input.

[Kamil93]

Originally Posted by boater

Surely you have found the problem yourself - you say that now if you remove the connection to the MAF the power is restored but with more smoke. This shows the MAF you are using is faulty and needs replacing. If the one you have was bought recently from DMGRS have a word with Matt and ask for a replacement because it is faulty.

Yeah. But I just dont want to believe that. You know, it’s a new part but it’s not guaranteed. I’ll have a talk with Dmgrs but any other ideas are welcomed.

FORGOT TO MENTION: I think the problem is much worse with engine properly warmed. On highway trips it’s much more seriously. Even now with lower temperatures. Could that be some clue ?

Thx

[grivas]

Originally Posted by Kamil93

Yeah. But I just dont want to believe that. You know, it’s a new part but it’s not guaranteed. I’ll have a talk with Dmgrs but any other ideas are welcomed.

FORGOT TO MENTION: I think the problem is much worse with engine properly warmed. On highway trips it’s much more seriously. Even now with lower temperatures. Could that be some clue ?

Thx

All things being equal, my money is on the MAF being faulty, the fact that you say on disconnecting it power is restored etc etc... have a word the DMGRS, and get a new GENUINE BOSCH sensor, anything else, will soon fail.

When you replace it make certain to replace the air filter as well, again use a well fitting quality filter, this will afford the MAF max. protection from dust etc.
Do you have a water shedder in front of the air intake duct, under the slam panel, if not get one fitted, that will help prevent dirty wet air getting into the filter and then onto the MAF.