MG ZT 1.8t Hydraulic Clutch Slave Quick Release problem. - Page 2

roverbarmy · 27th January 2016, 18:31

Don't forget to lightly grease (not too much or it may get on the friction surfaces) the splines that go through the driven plate. If they rust, they can also cause a stiff pedal,

It also helps with reassembly.
Mike

FrenchMike · 28th January 2016, 07:23

I guess all the seals come from the same barrel...

So my advice ,after some thousand of miles,as main part of débris are already detached,give a good purge and clean the valve ...

A lot of people reported having to replace the master not long after a slave replacement

(always curious to know the state of your seal ;after .xxx.kmile ?)

Mike

FrenchMike · 28th January 2016, 16:18

Effectively,bad user habits can reduce drastically the clutch life .

But ,as you know,on the 75's ,the main issue is hydraulic .(seal +valve)

mine went at 65 k miles :slave leaky with friction plate 40% worn only ...

I stay believing that with good quality parts and fluid replacement every two years

We could maintain a good working for long mileage

DMGRS · 28th January 2016, 19:59

John,
We have the Genuine MGR Metal Slaves here - a good upgrade, and seem to be very reliable in service.

I'm sure if you drop me a PM, I can sort something out.

FrenchMike · 28th January 2016, 20:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMGRS

John,
We have the Genuine MGR Metal Slaves here - a good upgrade, and seem to be very reliable in service.

I'm sure if you drop me a PM, I can sort something out.

Hi Matt,do you know if the Tazu Metal slave has the SAME seal as all the others ?

If yes,the rear rim will desintegrate as well ...

Mike

FrenchMike · 29th January 2016, 07:29

To me it's the main cause of the 75 clutch troubles
See the number of threads about hydraulic clutch issues on this forum (Harsh gear change or pedal to floor)

Curiously and luckily ,it'not the active rim !!!! explaining why some last .... like your's

mike

FrenchMike · 29th January 2016, 12:13

Yes John,you'll see yourself ,the OEM is made of hard plastic .

Nobody knows why the back side of the seal wears,if you have any idea

Bad design ?That is like if the rear is too wide and deteriorates quickly by rubbing ...

while my investigations,i have taken some measurements:

FrenchMike · 29th January 2016, 13:17

I think you're right ,that's my opinion too ..

Once,the main worn parts are evacuated by flushing all should become correct IMO.

The new item looks good but idealy (as the genuine were)
should be pre-filled and leak TESTED

(has been the cause of my troubles after uselessly replacement )

FrenchMike · 29th January 2016, 15:05

Why not John ; from what i did one year ago now, an air compressed test
should help ...for i beleive it has been delivered empty ?

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=192663

TBH, the next slave i bought as a replacement was leaky at the
junction pipe/bleeding nut (manufacturing fault)

unfortunately for me ,been confident ,i haven't led this kind of air test

You have a PM

Mike

FrenchMike · 23rd April 2016, 18:08

Thanks John for your nice picts ;that confirms that only the rear rim wears !!!

THE hydraulic clutch enigma ;root of most of the issues IMHO ...

Mike

27th January 2016, 18:31	#11
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	Don't forget to lightly grease (not too much or it may get on the friction surfaces) the splines that go through the driven plate. If they rust, they can also cause a stiff pedal, It also helps with reassembly. Mike __________________ Oil in my veins!

28th January 2016, 07:23	#12
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	I guess all the seals come from the same barrel... So my advice ,after some thousand of miles,as main part of débris are already detached,give a good purge and clean the valve ... A lot of people reported having to replace the master not long after a slave replacement (always curious to know the state of your seal ;after .xxx.kmile ?) Mike Last edited by FrenchMike; 28th January 2016 at 08:08..

28th January 2016, 19:59	#14
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	John, We have the Genuine MGR Metal Slaves here - a good upgrade, and seem to be very reliable in service. I'm sure if you drop me a PM, I can sort something out. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

29th January 2016, 07:29	#16
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	To me it's the main cause of the 75 clutch troubles See the number of threads about hydraulic clutch issues on this forum (Harsh gear change or pedal to floor) Curiously and luckily ,it'not the active rim !!!! explaining why some last .... like your's mike Last edited by FrenchMike; 29th January 2016 at 07:44..

29th January 2016, 12:13	#17
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Yes John,you'll see yourself ,the OEM is made of hard plastic . Nobody knows why the back side of the seal wears,if you have any idea Bad design ?That is like if the rear is too wide and deteriorates quickly by rubbing ... while my investigations,i have taken some measurements: Last edited by FrenchMike; 29th January 2016 at 12:21..

28th January 2016, 16:18	#13
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Effectively,bad user habits can reduce drastically the clutch life . But ,as you know,on the 75's ,the main issue is hydraulic .(seal +valve) mine went at 65 k miles :slave leaky with friction plate 40% worn only ... I stay believing that with good quality parts and fluid replacement every two years We could maintain a good working for long mileage

29th January 2016, 13:17	#18
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	I think you're right ,that's my opinion too .. Once,the main worn parts are evacuated by flushing all should become correct IMO. The new item looks good but idealy (as the genuine were) should be pre-filled and leak TESTED (has been the cause of my troubles after uselessly replacement )

29th January 2016, 15:05	#19
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Why not John ; from what i did one year ago now, an air compressed test should help ...for i beleive it has been delivered empty ? http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=192663 TBH, the next slave i bought as a replacement was leaky at the junction pipe/bleeding nut (manufacturing fault) unfortunately for me ,been confident ,i haven't led this kind of air test You have a PM Mike Last edited by FrenchMike; 29th January 2016 at 15:49..

23rd April 2016, 18:08	#20
FrenchMike This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Avignon Posts: 4,466 Thanks: 94 Thanked 661 Times in 554 Posts	Thanks John for your nice picts ;that confirms that only the rear rim wears !!! THE hydraulic clutch enigma ;root of most of the issues IMHO ... Mike