HP Pump Replacement

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by m@tt

In case its of any use to others i thought i'd document how i get on repairing the high pressure pump which has started leaking rendering the car undriveable.

tbh any one with a decent socket set could perform this job if they take their time. Apart from the specal tool you need (£40 from GSF) and the couple of hours its taken me so far, it far outweighs the £800 or so quoted by the garage near me to fix it.

One thing i would say is that i needed to weld a nut onto a short 17mm headed bolt so that i was able to undo the cover on the timing cover where the special tool gets screwed in, as i found it quite tight to undo, and no matter how tight i tightened 2 nuts against each other when i was pushing on the spanner it was making both nuts turn rather than the bolt. So its worth bearing in mind before you start.

So this was the little bolt thing i welded to undo the cover


There are 2 covers on the timing cover, the one we're interested in is the larger one, nearest the front of the car.


With the cover removed you can see the nut which holds the sprocket onto the tapered shaft of the pump. Don't undo this just yet.


First job is to screw in the larger outer collar of the special tool


Then you can undo the nut (21mm iirc)


Next screw in the smaller part of the tool before undoing the 3 nuts which hold the pump onto the engine block. If you undo the nuts and start to try and remove the pump you'll find it very difficult to screw the middle part of the tool in.

Once the middle part of the tool is screwed in, then you can remove the 3 nuts(13mm). One is underneath the pump and you'll need a longish extension bar to comfortably get to it.

with the nuts removed its then simply a case of screwing the bolt into the middle part of the tool and this will push the pump off the sprocket.

With the pump off the car i gave it an external clean up with some carb cleaner and a tooth brush.


I had noticed where there appeared to be fuel leaking from so i removed the cover from that section of the pump. With the cover removed it was quite obvious that a couple of the little O rings were damaged




Tbh there's nothing particularly scary about taking the pump apart. I'd be tempted to do it in a tray so that you're unlikely to lose any bits accidently, and it makes cleaning everything easier.

So tomorrow evenings job is to actually replace all the seals and get the pump back on the car.

The seal kit can be got from GSF, it was £20 +vat. I had no luck going through dealers or bosch service agents, dealers didn't have the parts and the bosch service centres wanted to charge me for them to do the work and weren't prepared to sell me the seal kit on its own.

My pump had the model code 0 445 010 011 which meant i needed the seal kit ending in 454.

Hope that's of some use so far

Great and interesting post thank you for sharing this with us, I have this tool in my shed along with a spare HP Pump cheers Arctic

[Arctic]

Do we know of anywhere else we can get these O-rings from ? Arctic.

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Do we know of anywhere else we can get these O-rings from ? Arctic.

Here you go Steve

LINK

Brian

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Here you go Steve

LINK

Brian

Bookmarked for when the time comes (as I'm still using a Synergy II)

Cheers Brian.

[T16]

Genuine Bosch seal kits are:-

Main pump seal kit : F 01M 101 454
Regulator seal kit : F 00R 0P1 466 and F 00V D38 011

Available for about £22-23 from Breedon and Gell.

[DMGRS]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Bookmarked for when the time comes (as I'm still using a Synergy II)

Cheers Brian.

Thought I'd bump this, as my pump started leaking last week - time to get the spanners out!
I can predict the future....

[vilas66]

Hi Gents,
I'm reviving the thread just to be sure that I'm on the right way and doing the right thing.
The HP pump of one of my 75's is leaking when cold. She smells diesel and I have seen, for the first time, some fuel drips on the floor last saturday.
First of all (I have good mechanical skills) can You confirm that could be a DIY job and no need of an hoist to lift the engine ? Rave says that alternator belt and hydramount should be removed but I have seen on this post that that's not necessary: anyone can confirm me that ?
Just ordered the Pump Pullers and Sprocket Retainer off ebay together with Bosch F01M101454 and Bosch F01M100278 as I want to repair myself the pump. I know that there's a lots of videos and instructions on the web but any feedback from 75 owners much appreciated.
Thank You.
Canio

[howardf]

Have a read of this...

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=277537

If you do a search on the how too's ive mentioned in the first post its all steady away.
Good luck..H

[bl52krz]

Thanks Brian. Saved in iBooks for posterity.

[vilas66]

Got my pump out this week end. The car is an automatic and, when I tried to remove the pump nut the Iwas unable to block the crankshaft so, with a couple of hits on the ratchet I was able to undo the nut.
Question now is: when I will put back the pump how can I tighten the nut to 65 Nm as suggested by RAVE if the crankshaft turns with the ratchet ?
Any help and suggestion appreciated.