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18th January 2019, 18:04 | #11 |
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Problem reappeared, clutch was engaging sporadically right when I was lifting the foot off the pedal, took a look by myself down there as I'm home now and my garage is free, and it seems that the master cylinder is leaking somewhere, the foam cover above the pedal was a little "wet". So decided to buy a new TAZU master, is there a good how to here on how to replace the master with detalied steps? I don't think it would be a hard job, the thing that scares me haha is bleeding the system after replacing the master, as I've noticed, the old fluid inside the system has sort of a grey color and it is really viscous and gummy, so I think I might need to get that all out and put new dot4 inside the system, but the thing is I have no idea about the process of bleeding the system, I know where the bleeding valve sits and that's it Any sort of help, guidance or explanation would be really appreciated, thank you!
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19th January 2019, 11:46 | #12 |
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It would take a bit of time to explain. I'm certain you will find ALL the information on how to do that job in the--How-To-- section on the main page.
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19th January 2019, 19:27 | #13 | |
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Quote:
Mat at DMGRS had/has these at a very reasonable price, and to be perfectly frank, the Tazu master cylinder pipework design is not fit for purpose. One of THESE will make short work of flushing the gunk out of the old master and slave Brian |
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20th January 2019, 11:20 | #14 |
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Well I already have a LHD drive (I live in Germany) so I bought indeed a LHD piece, I am thinking about letting the mechanic do the job, anuone can tell me the approx. price for a job like this in England? And also what is the about price per hour in England in a service?
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21st January 2019, 04:32 | #15 |
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Also, for the easibleed kit, when pumping the liquid out, does the clutch pedal have to be pressed for it to come out through the bleed valve?
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21st January 2019, 06:11 | #16 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
I realise you have bought a Tazu master cylinder, however having owned a car with one of these fitted, it was only a short matter of time before I fitted the correct part. The Tazu unit is awful in terms of 1 Transmitting vibration and noise into the cabin via the pipework 2 With the pressure differential from the original AP slave cylinder, the clutch operation is considerably heavier than standard. This is a job in reality that will take about 1.5 hours to complete, this however can be stymied with seized fasteners in the battery box. Brian |
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21st January 2019, 06:23 | #17 |
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Thank you for the info sir! I thought it would be wise buying the Tazu unit since it's built from alluminium as far as I've noticed and it seemed more reliable to me.
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24th January 2019, 06:22 | #18 |
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Eazibleed kit arrived. So the right way to do it would be connecting the valve to one of the wheels to use the pressure from inside it? Problem is I have about 2.3 bars inside my wheels and the max allowed for the Eazibleed kit is 1.4 bars as it says on the bottle.
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24th January 2019, 06:49 | #19 | |
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Quote:
Brian |
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24th January 2019, 06:56 | #20 |
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Hmm never would've thought of that (joking of course) well I thought it would be also other options available which wouldn't deflate the tyre that much in the bleeding process hence my question.
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