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Old 4th January 2018, 07:21   #11
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Chances are it's probably not even plain copper pipe best thing to do get a length & see how easily it bends into different configurations if it stays reasonably supple it could well be Kunifer.If you are unsure it's not that expensive from motor factors i may even have enough spare pipe here if it makes the job any easier you are welcome to use my 2 post ramp.
I see they list various different pipes on their ebay site.
As for covering the new pipe you could use shrink wrap.
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Old 4th January 2018, 13:08   #12
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I think it's equally important to renew brake fluid every so often as it captures moisture and that is what makes it rust (other than the performance fade).

Apple juice colour rather than pale ale or honey.
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Old 4th January 2018, 14:48   #13
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Excellent thread - now referenced and sorted for future use.
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Old 4th January 2018, 23:39   #14
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I agree with your sentiments about brake fluid, and I also do my clutch fluid every 2 years. I know it’s supposed to be air tight with the condom, but hey ho lets be over protective.
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Old 12th January 2018, 10:06   #15
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I had my brake lines changed a couple of years ago front to rear, i am certain they used kunifer, yesterday i checked brake pipe in the wheel arches all seemed ok i do give them a light rub down twice a year with soft green scourer, then i rub some copper grease along it's length it seem to help keep it from corroding, MOT due in next few day so will know what the tester thinks.
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Old 12th January 2018, 13:46   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
i do give them a light rub down twice a year with soft green scourer, then i rub some copper grease along it's length it seem to help keep it from corroding, MOT due in next few day so will know what the tester thinks.
I wouldn't bother....if CuNi is good enough for the oil & submarine industries to use in seawater without any sort of protection, then its more than up to the task of car brake lines.

In fact, all you'll be doing with the scourer is removing the protective oxide layer - the very thing that gives CuNi its corrosion resistance.
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Old 12th January 2018, 17:19   #17
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[QUOTE]
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbonwick View Post
I wouldn't bother....if CuNi is good enough for the oil & submarine industries to use in seawater without any sort of protection, then its more than up to the task of car brake lines.

In fact, all you'll be doing with the scourer is removing the protective oxide layer - the very thing that gives CuNi its corrosion resistance.[/QUOTE
]

Hi Michael
I was only referring to the original brake line section in each front wheel arch that I rub lightly with scourer, the front to rear brake pipes under the car which were replaced in 2012 I have never touched.
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Old 12th January 2018, 19:52   #18
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Ah, my apologies. In which case a yearly rub down and regrease is definitely a good idea.
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Old 12th January 2018, 23:00   #19
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Ah, my apologies. In which case a yearly rub down and regrease is definitely a good idea.
Hi Michael.
No apologies needed as you were correct in the fact of the kunifer, and I should have maybe made it clearer in my post that I was mainly referring to the original steel brake lines in the wheel arch all the best Arctic.
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Old 15th January 2018, 12:04   #20
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Default Flaring Tool

I've got some brake line repair to carry out before next MoT, Like the look of the Trident flaring tool in the kit, is it definitely the DIN version of the tool for Rover cars, only a lot of traders are trying to sell the SAE version and I do wonder if some actually know the difference.
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