1.8T engine cured!!

[kaiser]

My wife's 1.8T has been running poorly, lately. It started misfiring and loosing power. At the same time, we noticed a loss of water of about 100ml per day, I check the coolant level daily.

I started by taking the spark plugs out and cleaning them. This made the stuttering worse, to the extent that the yellow engine light would come on under acceleration. Biting the bullet and purchasing 4 (expensive) new plugs did the trick. The car pulls like a locomotive again and, when you compare a new to an old plug, it becomes quite obvious, that the old plugs are very worn.

After the spirited test drive, I checked oil and water, and noticed water under the oil filler cap. I realized why we could not find the outside water leak. Water was getting into the oil! The next day, it was also visible on the dip stick, the oil looking like milky coffee in colour.
Owing to my continuous water checks, I know the car has never run with too little water and has never overheated. There was also no excessive pressure in the cooling system, and no oil in the water.
Prime suspect, a loose liner.

After some soul searching and thinking back and forth, I purchased a bottle of Wondarweld, followed the instructions and added it to the cooling system.
I took the car for a 80 km drive and checked after it had cooled down.

Water level was constant, oil had returned to normal, not one drop of moisture under the oil filler cap!!!!!
Today, after 3 days of driving, I drained, flushed and refilled.

The verdict is a 100 percent success! so far!

I have had an interesting e-mail by a forum member asking, if such sealant should be added as a permanent feature, and at the moment i would tend to say yes, if it is a fluid that will only harden at elevated temperatures, I think it might be extremely useful to have as a permanent feature in the system, provide that anti corrosion and other parameters are not compromised.
The Wondarweld is to be left in the system for 3 days max according to instructions, but I think that your K-seal (which I don't know down here) might be the answer for leaving in the system.


In retrospect, I think we are getting to the point where we can keep the 1.8 engine reliable.
1. Replace, improve all suspect parts in the cooling system (plastic bits, water pump, seals for inlet manifold)
2. Monitor the engine water temperature with aftermarket device or computer, don't rely on on-board gauge.
3. If possible, install a water level sensor.
4. Check water level daily.
5 At first sign of water under oil filler cap, add Wondarweld (or, maybe K-seal)
6. Check with the manufacturer of K-seal and see if it can be added and left in the system.

A headgasket failure on these engines, I maintain, is only likely as a result of overheating, which is likely to occur as a result of loss of water externally OR internally.
I might just add, that in retrospect, my problems with my V6 some while back, strongly resembles this problem. In those days we took the engine to pieces, but could not find a mark on the headgasket. When we assembled the unit, the problem persisted. After another two engine rebuilds, where we eventually used Lock-tite to secure the sleeves, the engine was cured.

Just to stress, I have no interest in any of the products mentioned, and this information is just a reflection of what I have personally experienced. I find the results consistent with what you can expect, and I can see good reason for the results experienced. I am not saying that the product would work if serious damage has been done, and I stress that I am talking about a leak past a liner, not a head gasket failure.
I would also like to add that I expect these engines to have these failures as a result of their construction. IOW you will encounter this sooner or later.
If the addition of K-seal or Wondarweld is possible as a permanent feature, I would suggest that it be done.
Would someone be interested in checking this with the manufacturers? I would be very interested!
If I have a failure, I will let you know!

[brownie21]

I have added K-seal in mine recently as I had a constant small coolant loss. K-seal can be left in the system permanently according to the manufacturer and I have only read good reviews about the product. Those who say 'don't do it it will kill the engine' need to come up with some concrete facts supporting this claim. It doesn't go 'sludgy' and doesn't blocks the waterways. You end up with very minute particles in the water which will eventually pack together at any small leak points (including head gaskets) to seal them up which can take a few days.
Saying this I have since found out that I have a suspect water pump which is causing the loss which I am having replaced shortly. Still leaving this stuff in though and I have no worries about using it. Never heard of the other one though.

Rgds

Wayne

[Telferstr]

Originally Posted by kaiser

My wife's 1.8T has been running poorly, lately. It started misfiring and loosing power. At the same time, we noticed a loss of water of about 100ml per day, I check the coolant level daily.

I started by taking the spark plugs out and cleaning them. This made the stuttering worse, to the extent that the yellow engine light would come on under acceleration. Biting the bullet and purchasing 4 (expensive) new plugs did the trick. The car pulls like a locomotive again and, when you compare a new to an old plug, it becomes quite obvious, that the old plugs are very worn.

After the spirited test drive, I checked oil and water, and noticed water under the oil filler cap. I realized why we could not find the outside water leak. Water was getting into the oil! The next day, it was also visible on the dip stick, the oil looking like milky coffee in colour.
Owing to my continuous water checks, I know the car has never run with too little water and has never overheated. There was also no excessive pressure in the cooling system, and no oil in the water.
Prime suspect, a loose liner.

After some soul searching and thinking back and forth, I purchased a bottle of Wondarweld, followed the instructions and added it to the cooling system.
I took the car for a 80 km drive and checked after it had cooled down.

Water level was constant, oil had returned to normal, not one drop of moisture under the oil filler cap!!!!!
Today, after 3 days of driving, I drained, flushed and refilled.

The verdict is a 100 percent success! so far!

I have had an interesting e-mail by a forum member asking, if such sealant should be added as a permanent feature, and at the moment i would tend to say yes, if it is a fluid that will only harden at elevated temperatures, I think it might be extremely useful to have as a permanent feature in the system, provide that anti corrosion and other parameters are not compromised.
The Wondarweld is to be left in the system for 3 days max according to instructions, but I think that your K-seal (which I don't know down here) might be the answer for leaving in the system.


In retrospect, I think we are getting to the point where we can keep the 1.8 engine reliable.
1. Replace, improve all suspect parts in the cooling system (plastic bits, water pump, seals for inlet manifold)
2. Monitor the engine water temperature with aftermarket device or computer, don't rely on on-board gauge.
3. If possible, install a water level sensor.
4. Check water level daily.
5 At first sign of water under oil filler cap, add Wondarweld (or, maybe K-seal)
6. Check with the manufacturer of K-seal and see if it can be added and left in the system.

A headgasket failure on these engines, I maintain, is only likely as a result of overheating, which is likely to occur as a result of loss of water externally OR internally.
I might just add, that in retrospect, my problems with my V6 some while back, strongly resembles this problem. In those days we took the engine to pieces, but could not find a mark on the headgasket. When we assembled the unit, the problem persisted. After another two engine rebuilds, where we eventually used Lock-tite to secure the sleeves, the engine was cured.

Just to stress, I have no interest in any of the products mentioned, and this information is just a reflection of what I have personally experienced. I find the results consistent with what you can expect, and I can see good reason for the results experienced. I am not saying that the product would work if serious damage has been done, and I stress that I am talking about a leak past a liner, not a head gasket failure.
I would also like to add that I expect these engines to have these failures as a result of their construction. IOW you will encounter this sooner or later.
If the addition of K-seal or Wondarweld is possible as a permanent feature, I would suggest that it be done.
Would someone be interested in checking this with the manufacturers? I would be very interested!
If I have a failure, I will let you know!

Hi Kaiser,
Just thought I would mention the water heated inlet manifold as a possible source for water leaks etc. The joints for this item were uprated round about 1999 or so, to heavier gauge material. The new joints can be identified by their Duck Egg Blue colour. There maybe old type joints still in circulation, which if fitted need to be replace every now and then to ensure a good seal and no water loss either externally or leaking into the airway of the manifold itself. Just a thought, but no doubt you are aware of these weak joints.
Hope the K-seal solves the problem.
Regards,
Telfer.

[Gman2]

Originally Posted by brownie21

I have added K-seal in mine recently as I had a constant small coolant loss. K-seal can be left in the system permanently according to the manufacturer and I have only read good reviews about the product. Those who say 'don't do it it will kill the engine' need to come up with some concrete facts supporting this claim. It doesn't go 'sludgy' and doesn't blocks the waterways. You end up with very minute particles in the water which will eventually pack together at any small leak points (including head gaskets) to seal them up which can take a few days.
Saying this I have since found out that I have a suspect water pump which is causing the loss which I am having replaced shortly. Still leaving this stuff in though and I have no worries about using it. Never heard of the other one though.

Rgds

Wayne

I am seriously thinking to do likewise!

[pab]

don't bother..find the source of the leak and sort it..cheaper in the long run

[James.uk]

Fortes make a simlar product I think it's called rad sealer or similar..
.

[capese21]

If the car is an old wreck then add the k s***t stuff its your car. My previous 75 had a leak of water into the oil and was cured with a new head gasket but might well have been temporaily fixed by some magic potion. I would rather repair things properly though.

At first sign of water under oil filler cap, add Wondarweld (or, maybe K-seal)

or at first sign of water under the oil filler cap take your car to a Rover specialist garage and get it repaired properly.

At first sign of a noisy gearbox add some sawdust.
E.

[Jules]

Well fingers crossed Kaiser & let us know the Verdict in about a years time to give it a fair appraisal.

I've heard of some owners putting wonder potions in faulty engines just prior to selling them so they never quite know it it's worked or not.

There's a fair few member's threads on here who've used such potions but no POS or NEG feedback so the threads become inconclusive.

I'm still not convinced about potions I'm afraid

[kaiser]

The car is great, I have not lost one drop of water.
Gentlemen, you are of course entitled to your views, but also in these cases again, no evidence of any knowledge behind the views put forth.
Cheaper in the long run? why, how, says who?.
Cured by a new headgasket, fixed properly, and yet many have their cars "fixed properly" only to find out that the new headgasket was actually not the problem.
The fact is that these engines have a number of problems. We have got to most of them. One of the ones we have on the dissecting table at the moment, is the loose liners syndrome, which can prove fatal.
It is caused by minute movements of the liner, which, if not arrested, become bigger and bigger, until a small leak becomes a big one. Water loss, over heat, head gasket. The familiar story.
Sodium silicate, go look the stuff up, do a bit of research, and see how it works, that should be the minimum requirement before you start giving advice, I would think
There are very good reasons to believe that it can work for a Rover engine, if you know a bit about what is going on.
It is not a potion, it is not saw dust in the gear box, it has now worked for me.
As for the cost of trying, you have nothing to loose! It is not like you are damaging anything long term.
I have decided I am not getting involved in along discussion on the subject, I am going to add to this thread, initially weekly a short report, then monthly, and then, if or when the repair fails, I will let you know.
And Jules, if you are not convinced, then maybe YOU should give it a try. I was not convinced, I have tried. It works perfectly for me.
Talk about religion:lol:

[Jules]

Maybe I would try it ......if I had a K series to try it on!
However the previous 2 ZT 1.8T's & 2 TF VVC's we owned were all trouble free.

Fingers crossed for you & keep us posted