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Old 7th March 2015, 15:14   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris75 View Post
Same here ! I had an advisory 4 years ago on play there , but the last 3 MOTs have never mentioned it
The garage that claimed there was play was .............Halfords ! I couldn't find any trace of play myself and don't use them anymore after several other disputed verdicts on various family cars
HaHa! it was Halford that did the MOT and gave the advisory.
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Old 7th March 2015, 15:20   #12
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Just bought this tool link, since I'll be keeping the car for a while yet and want to make sure I'm ready if there is play in the inner tie joint or if it fails on future MOT.
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Old 7th March 2015, 15:39   #13
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Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT View Post
All such things do have some play, or you wouldn't be able to move the joint.

Jack the front end up, lash the steering wheel tightly so it cannot move, then get someone to rock the road wheel slightly side to side. You put your hand on the rack the other on the tie rod where it emerges from the bellows of the rack.

You might get a better feel, grasping if you can the tie-rod either side of the joint inside the bellows, because the above method will include a small amount of play in the rack itself.

Any play or noise doing that and they need replacing.

Its like a ball and socket joint. You are looking for any play between the ball and its socket.
Harry.

It might be easier to leave the wheel on the ground and get someone to waggle the steering wheel while you hold the joint itself.

The friction of the wheel on the ground might be better than trying to tie the steering wheel.

Bit quicker too.

As the joints pivot as you raise the wheel off the ground the joint may move fractionally away from the wear area.

With the wheel on the ground the movement might be more apparent.

This could also be the reason that when checked at home with the wheel in the air no play is apparent.

The wheel has weight on it when the tester checks it.



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Old 7th March 2015, 17:11   #14
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So it looks like the galaxy/alhambra/sharon part can be used, but around 3mm must be cut off the short end so they butt properly - Delphi TA1673 at around £15 delivered from ebay.

The Tazu part is also around £15, presumably no modification would be involved. Including subscriber 15% discount a pair can be had for £33.50.

So should I go for for Delphi or Tazu? Decisions, decisions :-)
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Old 7th March 2015, 17:28   #15
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You could just go to your nearest TPS depot and buy from VW. The parts are genuine VW parts and are not usually anymore expensive.
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Old 11th March 2015, 13:47   #16
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I had a look on ebay and found some Alhambra, motaquip boxed, tie rod assemblies (inner and outer tie rods), the seller also had Apec, rear brake disc and since the mintex ones I have on at the moment were mentioned as having some corrosion at my recent MOT I thought I would buy a set.

So the discs were £15.95/pair and £14.95 postage. The tie rod assemblies were £9.95 and £8.95 postage, the seller agreed to combine postage so I paid around £50 for the lot.

Good news for me is both the inner and outer rods are stamped TRW - Yay!

Motaquip part number VTR407 and VTR406 for the tie rod assemblies - although you might not know what make is actually in the box?

Tommy :-)
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Old 11th March 2015, 18:05   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Harry.

It might be easier to leave the wheel on the ground and get someone to waggle the steering wheel while you hold the joint itself.

The friction of the wheel on the ground might be better than trying to tie the steering wheel.

Bit quicker too.

As the joints pivot as you raise the wheel off the ground the joint may move fractionally away from the wear area.

With the wheel on the ground the movement might be more apparent.

This could also be the reason that when checked at home with the wheel in the air no play is apparent.

The wheel has weight on it when the tester checks it.



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i agre that is the way to check the inner tie rods
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Old 12th March 2015, 06:29   #18
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I was told by the manager of a garage that does mot's that most used cars have a little bit of play in the inner joints, and not to worry about these advisories. The tester is actually sticking to the letter by raising it as an advisory, which is good. At least he is paying attention and being thorough. On my cars unless they go past 10 years / 100,00 miles I don't worry any more. But then I don't do many miles. They are an easy job for someone with the tools to change, and the part is cheap too.
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