Front Suspension, Lower Arm, Hub Bolt Removal

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by klarzy

if the bolt has rounded off or is so corroded that it is substantially weakened then you will just round the head off or snap the bolt... it wont move it...

impact guns have their action in a radial torque, not an end on impact.

heat and a good punch and hammer are your best bets...

look up induction heaters if you really need to spend some cash... or just hire a mobile mechanic to do it for you...

Nothing is rounded off - yet. One is starting to go.

I was looking at Induction heaters earlier this evening but they are even more expensive than this DeWalt torque wrench and anyway I can get a blowtorch on these particular bolts.

There is just not enough room to swing a hammer properly when working on the drive. I would be tickling it.

I really want to defeat this myself but may have to pay a professional in the end.

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

Nothing is rounded off - yet. One is starting to go.

I was looking at Induction heaters earlier this evening but they are even more expensive than this DeWalt torque wrench and anyway I can get a blowtorch on these particular bolts.

There is just not enough room to swing a hammer properly when working on the drive. I would be tickling it.

I really want to defeat this myself but may have to pay a professional in the end.

Just alternate the blowtorch with a squirt of plusgas and leaning on a breaker bar with a 6 sided impact socket (or use the impact wrench). it will move eventually: once it's rotating you'll be able to knock it out, turn and drift.

[Mike Noc]

Better still warm everything up then quench the bolt thread with a wet rag and give it a good long squirt of freezing penetrating spray.

[Frogmella]

Check out this video of the Dewalt DCF899 removing rusted-on suspension bolts without using penetrating fluid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmFiFgAtUpM

I gotta get me one a deez

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

Check out this video of the Dewalt DCF899 removing rusted-on suspension bolts without using penetrating fluid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmFiFgAtUpM

I gotta get me one a deez

Alex

Before spending out hundreds on a windy gun that may just snap the heads off your rusted bolts, I would persevere with the more traditional methods of penetrating oil, heating /cooling and using good quality sockets/gripper sockets with long breaker bars. What length breaker bar have you been using ?

Is the car mobile/drivebale ? If you can get it over to mine I am happy to have a go at the seized fixings - no guarantees, but I have shifted quite a few rusted up nuts and bolts in my time.
Pete

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Alex

Before spending out hundreds on a windy gun that may just snap the heads off your rusted bolts, I would persevere with the more traditional methods of penetrating oil, heating /cooling and using good quality sockets/gripper sockets with long breaker bars. What length breaker bar have you been using ?

Is the car mobile/drivebale ? If you can get it over to mine I am happy to have a go at the seized fixings - no guarantees, but I have shifted quite a few rusted up nuts and bolts in my time.
Pete

I can't afford the DeWalt. My breaker bar is 2 feet. The trouble with these things is the amount of play at the socket end and I'm working in a wheel arch just a few inches off the ground.

I am persevering (not today, it's raining).

I have some Acetone and ATF on order which is supposed to combine to make a more effective penetrating solution. After that, I'll add heat. Then I'll curl up in a ball and cry.

The car can't drive as far as you beacuse I've had to cut half of the broken spring off, thanks for the kind offer.

[ceetdm]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

I can't afford the DeWalt. My breaker bar is 2 feet. The trouble with these things is the amount of play at the socket end and I'm working in a wheel arch just a few inches off the ground.

I am persevering (not today, it's raining).

I have some Acetone and ATF on order which is supposed to combine to make a more effective penetrating solution. After that, I'll add heat. Then I'll curl up in a ball and cry.

The car can't drive as far as you beacuse I've had to cut half of the broken spring off, thanks for the kind offer.

When I did mine the first time (after 8yrs and 85000 miles) I used a 6ft scaffold pole extension on my breaker bar - they did not go easily, but they did go. Of course this was coupled to a 6 sided impact socket which mates with the flats of the bolt.

I'm in the process of changing my springs (snapped spring) again after only 4.5 years and 32000 miles.

When I replaced the bolts (with new ones) I smeared them with copper ease, so this time no extension to breaker bar was needed :-)

Hope you get there!

Tommy :-)

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

I can't afford the DeWalt. My breaker bar is 2 feet. The trouble with these things is the amount of play at the socket end and I'm working in a wheel arch just a few inches off the ground.

Try getting a better quality 3 foot breaker bar, with limited play at the socket end, and only use top quality 6-sided sockets. Sealey premier socket sets have a serration on the flats, so they give extra grip, even on partly rounded nuts/bolts. I usually need a 3 foot bar to shift the strut to hub pinch bolt. As with most things on cars, using top quality tools does make life a lot easier !

Good luck

Pete

[Frogmella]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Try getting a better quality 3 foot breaker bar, with limited play at the socket end, and only use top quality 6-sided sockets. Sealey premier socket sets have a serration on the flats, so they give extra grip, even on partly rounded nuts/bolts. I usually need a 3 foot bar to shift the strut to hub pinch bolt. As with most things on cars, using top quality tools does make life a lot easier !

Good luck

Pete

My breaker bar was a Xmas present a few years back so I didn't get to choose it, although I doubt I would have noticed the play. You don't notice how significant the play at the end is until you load it up. Putting a steel tube on the end would exaggerate it even further.

I am using 6-sided impact sockets, though not the Sealey ones. I'm not having problems with slippage, they just won't turn.

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by Frogmella

My breaker bar was a Xmas present a few years back so I didn't get to choose it, although I doubt I would have noticed the play. You don't notice how significant the play at the end is until you load it up. Putting a steel tube on the end would exaggerate it even further.

I am using 6-sided impact sockets, though not the Sealey ones. I'm not having problems with slippage, they just won't turn.

What I tend to do for stubborn bolts is to use a 3 foot 3/4 in drive breaker that I have that is really rigid, and does not bend, then use a 3/4 to 1/2 inch converter/adapter to use with 6 sided 1/2 in sockets.

Pete