Faulty dual mass flywheel (KV6)?

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I think I'll re-use the old flywheel bolts (6 x PSK100120) because they're £7.44 each.

Which locking compound should I use - high strength Loctite red, or just Loctite blue?

The pic on Rimmers shows blue, but surely high strength is more suitable?

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

I think I'll re-use the old flywheel bolts (6 x PSK100120) because they're £7.44 each.

I suspect it says fit new because they're patch bolts (pressure-sensitive threadlock pre-applied).

Which locking compound should I use - high strength Loctite red, or just Loctite blue? The pic on Rimmers shows blue, but surely high strength is more suitable?

You're assuming the Rimmer blue and Loctite's blue mean the same thing. Maybe they do (??) but I'm sure blue will do. But if you decide to go red, then you'll have to heat everything up the next time you want the bolts out. What difference? : https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/nz/...adlockers.html

Oh they're torqued 80Nm /52ftlbs each.

TC

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I suspect it says fit new because they're patch bolts (pressure-sensitive threadlock pre-applied).

You're assuming the Rimmer blue and Loctite's blue mean the same thing. Maybe they do (??) but I'm sure blue will do. But if you decide to go red, then you'll have to heat everything up the next time you want the bolts out. What difference? : https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/nz/...adlockers.html

Oh they're torqued 80Nm /52ftlbs each.

TC

Thanks TC - I've seen that Henkel guide page before but I'd forgotten about it. I think I'll go with blue after all - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-225...s%2C164&sr=8-7.

Yes, I saw 80Nm in Rave - it doesn't sound that much considering what they're doing.

Rave page 48 does say this:



Slightly worrying - that's twice they've said it. I hope it's just because PSK100120 has pre-applied compound and nothing more sinister.

[mh007]

I've used the old bolts before & just applied Loctite without issues.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

Yes, I saw 80Nm in Rave - it doesn't sound that much considering what they're doing.

About the same as road wheel bolts - which aren't threadlocked.

Rave page 48 does say this: - - - - Slightly worrying - that's twice they've said it. I hope it's just because PSK100120 has pre-applied compound and nothing more sinister.

The only other re-use factor would be elasticity but I don't believe they're stretch bolts. I'd say it's about the threadlock film. I've faced similar quandaries with 'single use' bolts myself and even asking an MGR servicing depot didn't help. They said 'we always use the old bolts'. But others will say they follow the book. I'm pretty sure there are plenty of 75s on the road with reused flywheel bolts. But then I'd also have refitted the old flywheel. But then it's only another £50 for new bolts. But then you can sleep like a baby.
Good luck.



TC

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Blink

I just paid £28.35 (sold by Amazon) and now it's £30.82 from a 3rd party seller. Blimey, a minor piece of luck!

I like that angular torque gauge on the same page.--£8. 60p---

[Blink]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

..... Crank pulley? isn't that for the slackening the diesel pulley bolt? You need the flywheel ring gear locking tool 18G1742, which uses the starter motor mounting bolts to hold it in position.

Originally Posted by Blink

....Re the crank pulley - you might be right, I'll have another look at Rave.

TC - here's the pic in Rave. They've locked the KV6 crank pulley with two special tools in order to get the clutch off the flywheel. Not sure why when those bolts are only 25Nm and a sharp rap on the ratchet handle will crack them without locking anything. (Rave p689 of pdf / Repairs 33-1).



Rave p410 / Repairs 12-3-48 shows the same two tools locking the crank to get the flywheel off the engine (80Nm).
I'd rather use my nice new 18G1752 which has now arrived.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Blink

I'd rather use my nice new 18G1752 which has now arrived.

Agreed. Locking the front of the crankshaft while you sway on the flywheel looks like a poor method. No doubt the crank's robust enough but it doesn't feel right.


TC

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Originally Posted by Blink

.... I'd rather use my nice new 18G1752

Looks like I spoke too soon.

The 18G1752 does not engage the starter motor ring on a KV6 because the pointy part of it is too long when the tool is located in the two motor bolt holes.

We can see the problem in this shot. Ignore the blue tape, it's just to stop the flash bouncing back from shiny metal underneath.

The two bolts are in the motor hole but they're not tightened down - there's a good 1/2-inch gap between the rear face of the tool and the face of the engine. If I tighten the bolts any more the pointy part of the tool will jam against the front face of the starter ring instead of slotting in between two teeth.




Here's the gap between the tool and the engine when the pointy thing is touching the front face of the starter ring. That's the lower of the two bolts shown in the first pic.
NB. The wide teeth on the right are the front ring of the DMF and not the starter ring (which is lurking behind).



Unless I've missed something the only way round this is either: a) use the wide teeth ring and hope the tool will hold under 80Nm of force - or b) grind the pointy thing down until it fits. Both options are a bit of a bodge.

[COLVERT]

Grind the pointy bit down.-----Not a bodge but as it should have been.---You're only looking for 5 minutes use out of it anyway.--