Diesel leak dripping off sump - the investigation

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Salmon

John Chris did a perfect job on mine recently as mentioned in this post. What I leaned was don’t wipe the surfaces off on the pump while replacing the seals so the grit doesn’t go in to the fuel pump. He used long tweezers to to remove and replace the tiny O rings way too small to handle with your fingers.
Also don’t underestimate the torque require when putting the pump back together or you may have to have it out again to tighten further. We were lucky there as the one still leaking was the only one we could reach after refitting to nip up further.
Best of luck it all goes well for you. As ever Chris was cool as
As a brain surgeon as he went about his work.

Hi and thanks.


The first thing i plan to do in a minute or 12 when i go pull the pump is bring it indoors, seal up the pipes and give it a good clean before opening anything up very important!! im also toying with putting some diesel through it before refitting just to flush it through but that might be a bit ott....

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Retap

Thats great thanks mate, got some bits of flat stainless steel from local diy shop already drilled that should work nicely but to think the bracket breaks with heat fatigue is mental as there aint no rust on the snapped bit.

It's not heat fatigue but vibration that fractures the bracket. Stainless is less malleable than mild steel so more likely to snap again.

Quickest and easiest fix is to remove all traces of the bracket and cable tie the EGR control valve to the top of the starter motor.

[Retap]

My mistake dont know where i saw heat fatigue mentioned lol. Got all sorts of pieces lying around even some aluminium, how do you think Ali would fair compared to mild steel?

[Mike Noc]

Could do if it was thick enough. Mine broke after a few years from new - I was doing around 35k miles a year mind. I took the bracket off and welded it up. That lasted longer than the original but eventually broke again so I removed it and cable tied the control valve to the starter motor with 3 heavy duty cable ties. That was years ago and last time I checked it was still looking good.

[Retap]

In a gap in the rain earlier nipped out to get pump off and noted the solenoid bracket has plenty left to drill a hole in it and bolt it to the low pressure pipe bracket similar to Arctic’s suggestion so im gunna do that.



When the rain stops, come on Rain go away now just for half n hour so i can get the damn hp pump out to refurb tonight....




Also the low pressure hoses are a tad hard to pull off the pump or pipes, tried yanking on both ends not movement at all so hot rags to come weather permitting... Meh this is a summer job for sure.

[Retap]

Finally its blue sky and sunshine and the HP pump is safely off and nothing has yet gone clunk into the engine yay.


A photo shoot then on with the refurb ready to refit tomorow when it will be blue sky and sunshine all day

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Retap

Finally its blue sky and sunshine and the HP pump is safely off and nothing has yet gone clunk into the engine yay.

Funnily enough, if you don't use the locking tool nothing drops into the engine anyhow. Not suggesting you try it but I have.

The second timing chain that drives the camshafts above the HP pump holds everything together. The reason for the locking tool is to hold the HP pump sprocket and both chains at the correct position as they will move slighty due to the chain tensioners if the locking tool isn't in place.

[Retap]

Im pooped HPFP back in and everything back together, havent taken him for a good drive yet but no sign of anything leaking not even a weep so looking forward to seeing a nice dry sump and shrinking patch on the drive.



upon reflection i wonder if might have cured the leak just doing the Pressure regulator seals because upon pulling the regulator off last night when i stripped the pump down off the car, the regulator was a pain to pull off the pump and when it did release there was no large o ring anywhere to be found i looked everywhere to see if it went flying there was just a bit of black residue here and there like the pump had eaten it.


Thanks for your advice folks couldnt have done it without.


Next big jobs on list is both trailing arm bushes and brackets and both upper RH engine mounts, doing this job revealed they are knackered

[Arctic]

Hi John.
How did you find the mating surfaces were they clean or a little bit rusty ? as these below.

1

2

3

4

The face needed to be cleaned up.
5

So did the lid.
6

This was rubbed on some fine wet & dry using carb cleaner as a solution
7

8

Then was sprayed out with carb cleaner.
9

10

Ready for re-fitting.
11

12

13

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi John.
How did you find the mating surfaces were they clean or a little bit rusty ? as these below.

Hi Arctic,


Every cylinder was rusted like your photo it took 5 hours at a steady pace to clean it all up nice like yours look but i didnt have a cap just lots of swabs and wipes and method of working away from "holes". Was expecting the cylinder head and body to fit much more flush together, got me thinking about adding some type of liquid gasket around the edge to stop moisture getting in causing that rust but i didnt.



This is what i had