Broken gear change cable - ???

[Blink]

I've messed this up and put the cables in the selector box the wrong way round.

The outer sleeve of red cable is shorter than the outer sleeve of the black cable.

The red cable only fits this position on the abutment bracket ....



.... but I've put the other end on this side of the selector box .....



.... which means the red cable crosses over the black cable, instead of running parallel to it all the way along.

Which means both of these knuckles have to come off again.



I've actually got the red one off already but I can't remember how the other one came off last time (posts 4 & 6). This is what I said at the time but it doesn't make sense now:

Originally Posted by Blink

Grips didn't work. Brake spanner levered under the rod did (in less than 5 seconds).

Can anyone remember?

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Blink

... I can't remember how the other one came off ...

Hi Simon,

I've been following with interest your extensive repair and restoration threads and I think it's time to offer you a (hopefully) helpful suggestion.

Whenever I dismantle anything I make detailed notes, with diagrams, as I go. I therefore don't have to rely on memory. Others take photographs which is ok so long as they make sense when you come to look at them later (Arctic is the master at this. ). I see that you're very adept with the camera and computer graphics. So may I suggest that, starting today, you record your work in the style of a workshop manual? This has the added benefit that you finish the job earlier because you don't have to keep asking questions on the forum or repeat a task as has happened just now with the gearbox cables.

Mind you, your tales of woe are a source of useful information!

Simon

[Arctic]

Hi Simon.
This would work it is just the case does it warrant a purchase ?
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=308-547

Other than that two spanners with one open end big enough to let the ball through its open end prise against each other.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by Mike Noc

Commonly called swan necks in my neck of the woods Rich.

Pince Multiprise over here in France.--

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Other than that two spanners with one open end big enough to let the ball through its open end prise against each other.

Yep that's the way I'd do it.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hi Simon,

...... Whenever I dismantle anything I make detailed notes, with diagrams, as I go. I therefore don't have to rely on memory. Others take photographs which is ok so long as they make sense when you come to look at them later (Arctic is the master at this. ). I see that you're very adept with the camera and computer graphics. So may I suggest that, starting today, you record your work in the style of a workshop manual? .....

Simon

I've taken thousands of shots so far and you're right about using notes and diagrams as well. I did start making hand-written notes but they're either unreadable now (lousy writing ) or I don't know where I've put them (lousy filing system ). A lot of the photos are self explanatory and don't need notes but these knuckle pics definitely do. I just can't figure out how one brake spanner can possible work. I've got three brake spanners but only one is wide enough to fit - I spent an hour last night trying it from every conceivable angle and I got nowhere.

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
This would work it is just the case does it warrant a purchase ?
https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...px?SKU=308-547

The seller appears to be Bosch Steve and it look like they only sell to companies (the registration asks for a VAT/Tax number).

It's the same tool I mentioned in post 19 - it's in Rave as 18G 1592 (page 698 / 37-4 Repairs). The wide end probably works on the big knuckles but I can't see what the narrow end can pivot on in the gear lever selector box. Rave bottles out here and doesn't even mention the small knuckles (see p699).

Originally Posted by Arctic

Other than that two spanners with one open end big enough to let the ball through its open end prise against each other.

I've just tried with two spanners and haven't got anywhere. All I've done is start to mangle the knuckle and the plastic rim of the box.



The knuckle needs to be force straight up in the direction of the blue line without letting it tilt to one side. There's not enough room to get two open ended spanners in between the red lines - and even it there was three of the four walls of the box are so close that the angle of attack is too steep.



The fourth wall (out to the left in above pic) is far enough away but there's still not enough height between the red lines for two spanners.

[Arctic]

Hi Simon.
Did you purchase the tool for the slave connector ? below. If so i wonder would that work with a spanner to prise off the knuckle from the ball

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...QAAOSw~VhfrPHa

1


Would one of these work ?

2

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
Did you purchase the tool for the slave connector ? below. If so i wonder would that work with a spanner to prise off the knuckle from the ball

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...QAAOSw~VhfrPHa

1

No, I didn't Steve - I'm not sure they're big enough. I just measured the quick release connector on the new LuK master and it's 16.5mm diameter without the nylon collar.

Pic shows the old connector


I suppose I could buy the 15mm version and file some off.

Originally Posted by Arctic

Would one of these work ?

2

No, I don't think so. I've got one similar to the one on the right and it's far too big & chunky to get in there.

Anyway, I've just managed to get the darned thing off.



Having sifted through every single spanner I've got (which is quite a lot) these two just about fitted under the knuckle.



The 9mm open end goes underneath on the start of the gear lever taper - the 14mm open end goes on top of the 9mm and just squeezes in under the knuckle. Hold the 9mm steady in the box and pull up hard on the 14mm - the knuckle pops off.



NB. Keep this end of the gear lever as vertical as possible and try to avoid the knuckle tilting over to one side.

[Blink]

???

Before I screw it up again () can anyone confirm that this is the correct way to fit the cables to the gear lever box?

Box viewed from above


Box viewed from below



So it's like this (excuse the rough diagram):



PS. For info:

Abutment bracket is UCU000110 - #8 here: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001988

Red (eBay) cable ULS000030 is the short one - it's equivalent to the MGR factory cable with UP802400950 marked in green.
Black (eBay) cable ULS000020 is the long one - it's equivalent to the MGR factory cable with UP802400850 marked in white.
'Short' & 'Long' refer to the distance between the big metal mounting collars on the outer sleeve and not the length of the inner cables.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Blink

Before I screw it up again () can anyone confirm that this is the correct way to fit the cables to the gear lever box?

To answer my own question: no, it's not correct.