Front arm pinch bolt .

[ceedy]

Lots of threads on this ( eek nearly a pun) but nothing really definitive.


Recently replaced my OS front arm ( No 4 ) and did replace the bolt with a new one.



But tightened the nut to around 55-60lbs and the Nut stripped ! supposedly a genuine from DGMRS , but still a std looking nylock ?



Put on the other new nut and tigtened to a bit less, but think now after a couple of weeks it may be loose again ?



What the recommended torque now , apart from the weedy 45 nm in the manual .


The hubs not been wedged open .. and the joint is a snug fit .


ta



Chris

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by ceedy

supposedly a genuine from DGMRS , but still a std looking nylock?

I wonder if the original nut was a Nylock type? Certainly this Rimmer image isn't: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FX110057

However, Rimmer does indicate a Nyloc type for the ball joint to the subframe. I think perhaps a clamping bolt nut and a tapered pin retaining nut are different duties.

EDIT: I recall reading here that for the clamp nut a torque of 60Nm is suggested.

TC

[vitesse]

There was a thread some time back about rear upper arm bolts supplied by DMGRS that were only 8.8. What's stamped on yours?

Can't remember any nylock nuts when I've worked on the hub. As for torque, sorry don't know, I just do them up tight.

Incidentally I have a genuine pinch bolt for the suspension tube, that's stamped 10.9. According to a post by MarinaBrian the clamping strength of a 10.9 is 41% greater than a 8.8 bolt.

Regards

[ceedy]

The Old OEM nut which has been reused on the previous arms is a Flanged type . Not the weedy nut with the "Genuine" new bolt that came in an MGR labelled bag ?


C

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I wonder if the original nut was a Nylock type? Certainly this Rimmer image isn't: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FX110057

However, Rimmer does indicate a Nyloc type for the ball joint to the subframe. I think perhaps a clamping bolt nut and a tapered pin retaining nut are different duties.

EDIT: I recall reading here that for the clamp nut a torque of 60Nm is suggested.

TC

[It runs]

Replace that bolt asap
It's stretching . I had one exactly the same . I Thaught I was doing something wrong even though I knew I wasn't

[ceedy]

the "NEW" DGMRS Stripped nut ( @60) is marked ANC 181 ?



which I think is 18/8 ? so probably only suitable for the unsuitable OEM 45 NM


and the current "NEW" bolt along with the Original flanged nut is presently torqued to 75 nm .

we will see how the MOT in a weeks time goes



C

[T-Cut]

There's no comparison between the original flanged nut and a stainless Nyloc type. They're not in the same league - as you've found out.



TC

[ceedy]

So best not buy new stuff from a recognised supplier then

Originally Posted by T-Cut

There's no comparison between the original flanged nut and a stainless Nyloc type. They're not in the same league - as you've found out.



TC

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by ceedy

So best not buy new stuff from a recognised supplier then

Yes, that's OK PROVIDING it conforms to spec.---

High tensile bolts are fractionally more expensive than the general run-of-the-mill bolts. If in doubt fit one of those and stop worrying.--

[bl52krz]

I bought a set of rear upper arms from DMGRS. They are up in the loft. The bolts are 10.9 that came with them.