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Old 2nd November 2020, 10:03   #1
genpk
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was looking at getting the belts done on my 75 as its just clocked up 240,000km.
Last time they got done was 110,000km.
Went to a couple of local chain mechanic repair stores and both declined to do the job as they reckoned they needed to buy special tools.
I stated they could be changed without the tools but they were all worried about doing the job and reckon to bigger job !!
Might have speak to some landrover workshops and hope they can do it!!
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Old 2nd November 2020, 11:54   #2
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Originally Posted by genpk View Post
was looking at getting the belts done on my 75 as its just clocked up 240,000km.
Last time they got done was 110,000km.
Went to a couple of local chain mechanic repair stores and both declined to do the job as they reckoned they needed to buy special tools.
I stated they could be changed without the tools but they were all worried about doing the job and reckon to bigger job !!
Might have speak to some landrover workshops and hope they can do it!!
What engine? I take it, it could well be a diesel with that sort of mileage on it. Are not 75 diesels a BMW sourced engine? If so, then you are probably better of getting a quote/info from a dealer or BMW specific independent.

Kev
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Old 2nd November 2020, 12:03   #3
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Hi Pete,

Your best bet is indeed a Land Rover workshop which possesses the special service tools. Judging by the mileage you've covered you'd be very wise to ask for new tensioner and idler pulleys (mine had very rough bearings at a slightly greater mileage than yours).

Simon
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Old 2nd November 2020, 12:07   #4
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What engine? I take it, it could well be a diesel with that sort of mileage on it. Are not 75 diesels a BMW sourced engine? If so, then you are probably better of getting a quote/info from a dealer or BMW specific independent.

Kev
The diesels are chain-drive aren't they?

The 1.8 doesn't really need special tools but you need brass balls as well as tools to do the V6s unless you do something dirty like cutting half the old belt off and sliding the new belts on alongside.

I wouldn't want a chain-n00b to do a V6 for me.
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Old 2nd November 2020, 12:23   #5
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The 1.8 doesn't really need special tools but you need brass balls as well as tools to do the V6s unless you do something dirty like cutting half the old belt off and sliding the new belts on alongside.
Is it not just monkeys who have brass balls

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Old 2nd November 2020, 20:59   #6
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Hi Pete,

Your best bet is indeed a Land Rover workshop which possesses the special service tools. Judging by the mileage you've covered you'd be very wise to ask for new tensioner and idler pulleys (mine had very rough bearings at a slightly greater mileage than yours).

Simon
Hi Simon, think thats where i try next.
249,000km works out to 149, 000 miles.
Interesting as i recollect MGR had you guys doing belts at 100,000 miles but over here they suggested 100,000km which is around 70,000 miles.
Being as its not my primary use car anymore id probably be ok for a bit but would be nice to get them done although its going to be over $1,000.
Last time i got it done i got all pulleys , tensioner, water pump etc done.
I had an english ex pat mechanic do it last time but cant find him now.
Like the idea of cutting half the belt off and sliding the new ones on but cant see how that would work on the small cam belts with the larger cog on it.
Can get a complete kit for about $350 Aud, just the labour content will be the pain.
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Old 3rd November 2020, 07:06   #7
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Originally Posted by genpk View Post
Hi Simon, think thats where i try next.
249,000km works out to 149, 000 miles.
Interesting as i recollect MGR had you guys doing belts at 100,000 miles but over here they suggested 100,000km which is around 70,000 miles.
Being as its not my primary use car anymore id probably be ok for a bit but would be nice to get them done although its going to be over $1,000.
Last time i got it done i got all pulleys , tensioner, water pump etc done.
I had an english ex pat mechanic do it last time but cant find him now.
Like the idea of cutting half the belt off and sliding the new ones on but cant see how that would work on the small cam belts with the larger cog on it.
Can get a complete kit for about $350 Aud, just the labour content will be the pain.
when it comes to cutting a belt I think I saw on one of the car programmes they cut the belt in half along its length, slid one half off, fitted new belt half way on, removed the other half of the old belt and then fully slid on the new belt. This also kept the timing correct.

macafee2
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Old 3rd November 2020, 07:23   #8
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Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
when it comes to cutting a belt I think I saw on one of the car programmes they cut the belt in half along its length, slid one half off, fitted new belt half way on, removed the other half of the old belt and then fully slid on the new belt. This also kept the timing correct.

macafee2

No good if you are changing the pulleys and tensioners though!
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Old 3rd November 2020, 07:24   #9
SD1too
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Interesting as i recollect MGR had you guys doing belts at 100,000 miles but over here they suggested 100,000km which is around 70,000 miles.
Interesting indeed. What's MG Rover's suggested time interval for Australia (it's 90,000/6 years over here)?
Quote:
Last time i got it done i got all pulleys , tensioner, water pump etc done.
Excellent and that was 78,000 miles ago. Judging by my findings, that's the perfect time to renew the pulleys again along with the timing belts.

Let us know how you get on with Land Rover please.

Simon
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Old 3rd November 2020, 08:39   #10
mh007
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Originally Posted by torque2me View Post
What engine? I take it, it could well be a diesel with that sort of mileage on it. Are not 75 diesels a BMW sourced engine? If so, then you are probably better of getting a quote/info from a dealer or BMW specific independent.

Kev
The OP's public profile says 2.5 which is a KV6.

There's been a debate with regards to using the locking tools or not.
I prefer to use them & always have on the KV6.
Whoever does it should pay particular attention to correct fitment & adjustment of the tensioner!

The 2.0 Diesel is chain driven.

Although you can most definitely get away without any special tools on the 4 cylinder K-Series, I do use a camshaft locking tool (between the cam sprockets) & a flywheel locking tool.

Oh & cutting the belt in half to slide the new one on is not a good idea as already said above as it's always recommended to change the tensioner, guide & water pump.

Last edited by mh007; 3rd November 2020 at 08:46..
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