Brake Pipe Routing

[davidbooker]

My 75 failed its MOT last week because the brake pipes adjacent to the fuel tank are suspect. I've owned the car for over eighteen years, and I thought that all the steel brake pipes were replaced with copper years ago. However, these were apparently connected to the now failed ones to save time.
The garage says that the entire pipe run must be replaced, and the fuel tank and exhaust will require dropping, involving considerable labour.
My question is, why can't they just replace the old steel pipes and connect them to the good piping using a flaring tool? This was obviously the method used before.
Also, is there a more economical way of replacing the bad pipes by rerouting them around the tank, or by direct access from inside the car.
Before I came to Whitby I used to do all my own maintenance, and I had ramps, axle stands, a brake flaring tool, Gunsons Eezibleed etc., which enabled me to pass MOTs. All this equipment, and more, was stolen when I arrived in Whitby, so I tend to leave most work to garages nowadays. Despite my mechanical engineering training and huge experience prior to my doing podiatry, car mechanics seem to treat me like a car ignoramus, and I find this extremely annoying and insulting. That's why I like this forum for its friendly, unprejudiced, no nonsense advice.
Many thanks, David 😀

[Arctic]

Hi David.
Yes the brake pipe can be matched up to the existing copper pipe, but the fuel tank and exhaust will need to be lowered to gain access to replace the old steel pipe.

Find a decent garage it should cost no more than £120 including pipe.

Read from post 77 onwards
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...=320142&page=8

[suzublu]

When I did mine, just shaped the pipe to match the one over the tank, then slid it over. Well, my mechanic did 😎

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[davidbooker]

Thanks for your replies. Is re-routing the pipes around the tank, (thereby leaving the corroded ones in situ) a plausible solution? I'm not sure where the locating clips would be placed, and more piping would probably be needed, but I recall reading of the idea somewhere as a safe alternative.

[T-Cut]

It's my understanding that brake pipes don't have to follow the original route. So, they can be routed in any way you want, provided they are well supported and clear of the suspension. I'm pretty sure this can be checked with online information about the MOT test and rules.


TC

[Pete]

The fuel tank and exhaust don't need to be removed to do replace the brake line, just dropped. I can't recall anyone re-routing the rear line, and to be honest once you've taken the time figure out a new route that somehow gets round the tank and between the rear suspension, plus put in new clips to hold it in place, you would have put the line in the original route.

Just going beyond your issue for a moment David as brake lines are a safety issue. Abraiding them to remove corrosion is dangerous as this weakens the outer wall, particularly on bends and near joints. And as I've changed 3 of these in the past, and 2 of them were corroded over the top of the fuel tank, it is not safe to assume that the section you can't see is going to be fine. On that point I have removed a post from this thread which made suggestions to this effect.

[davidbooker]

Thanks Pete
As you say, I think the original routing is the best way forward. Most of the other piping has been replaced with copper over the years (I've owned her for eighteen,) so should this need replacing again? I thought it would last indefinitely.
Many thanks for your help, DVid

[shiner]

David. Just replace the section from the hose to the joiners at the front end by the drivers footwell area. Removes the need to retain additional unions.


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[Pete]

I've used Copper in the past and, while it's fine, personally I'm a little wary of it. That's due to it needing care not to overwork or crack it when getting it to the correct shape, plus with vibration etc it can harden over time. For that reason I prefer to use Kunifer, which is what is (slowly) appearing on my Land Rover.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Pete

Just going beyond your issue for a moment David as brake lines are a safety issue. Abraiding them to remove corrosion is dangerous as this weakens the outer wall, particularly on bends and near joints. And as I've changed 3 of these in the past, and 2 of them were corroded over the top of the fuel tank, it is not safe to assume that the section you can't see is going to be fine. On that point I have removed a post from this thread which made suggestions to this effect.

Couldn't agree more Pete.
I have come across brake pipe sections that look fine but are corroded where they are held by the clips. Only seen once they have been unclipped of course.
It is quite straightforward and easy enough to do the work properly if you are handy with the spanners and a not too expensive job if you entrust it to a local garage. As mentioned replace the entire section of pipe up to the original unions, follow the existing route and don't be tempted to skimp on critical safety systems.