75 saloon CTDI

theoldcodger · 19th July 2017, 18:38

Does anyone know of a way to free off the seized bolts on the swinging arms on the rear as I need to get the car tracked & ATS cannot free them?

macafee2 · 19th July 2017, 19:59

I think these are trailing arms.
https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001553

spray with plus gas, leave over night try again and if they wont move, repeat.
pneumatic air gun?

If its the bolt that goes thru the bush, item 3 in the link above. I had to hammer it out then replace the bush as the bush came apart with the hammering. you may need to take the trailing arm to a work shop to have old bush pushed out and new one pushed in

macafee2

theoldcodger · 19th July 2017, 20:13

Thanks for the reply. The bolts in question are at the body end & bolt into the bottom under the seat area & are absolutely rock solid. I haven't tried easing oil but as they are under the body I can't see that would be any good. I have noticed on Car S.O.S & wheeler dealers that there is a a heater tool with a coil on the end which will heat the bolt head & hopefully free it but I can't find one. Have you any ideas?

macafee2 · 19th July 2017, 20:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by theoldcodger

Thanks for the reply. The bolts in question are at the body end & bolt into the bottom under the seat area & are absolutely rock solid. I haven't tried easing oil but as they are under the body I can't see that would be any good. I have noticed on Car S.O.S & wheeler dealers that there is a a heater tool with a coil on the end which will heat the bolt head & hopefully free it but I can't find one. Have you any ideas?

try a hot air gun paint stripper.

macafee2

Avulon · 19th July 2017, 21:49

Blow torch or oxy acetylene - provide there are no rubber bushes in the vicinity to damage, and copious applications of penetrating oil (wd40 is not penetrating oil). A well fitting 6 wall drive socket a 2ft breaker bar and muscle. (it's the same for any rusted nut and bolt) it either eventually undoes or something breaks (sometimes the socket!) At which point the only option is to cut it off.

I'd suggest take it a proper garage with a real mechanic - not a tyre fitting shop or 'technician' workshop. When something is badly siezed is needs someone brave enough and skilled enough with plenty of similar experience. The tyre places and fast fit centres don't have the skilled mechanics (in general) to do any job that can't be easily completed with just an air ratchet or hammer.

The induction heating things are certainly something that can work, but only really need when the application of flame might damage something else (like rubber bushes). (They are also very expensive).

trikey · 19th July 2017, 22:55

Decent 18mm hex socket on a windy gun and they will fly out

theoldcodger · 20th July 2017, 10:57

Many thanks, Gents. You have given me some ideas which I might try this weekend

chris75 · 20th July 2017, 20:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avulon

and copious applications of penetrating oil (wd40 is not penetrating oil).

By way of an update I recently noticed in Halfords that there is now a range of new WD40 products and one of them is solely described as a penetrating oil .

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/eng...enetrant-250ml

Sprinter · 20th July 2017, 23:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by theoldcodger

Thanks for the reply. The bolts in question are at the body end & bolt into the bottom under the seat area & are absolutely rock solid. I haven't tried easing oil but as they are under the body I can't see that would be any good. I have noticed on Car S.O.S & wheeler dealers that there is a a heater tool with a coil on the end which will heat the bolt head & hopefully free it but I can't find one. Have you any ideas?

A heat induction coil like this from Sykes Pickvant.

Expensive in this case but second hand ones are available.

Avulon · 21st July 2017, 00:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75

By way of an update I recently noticed in Halfords that there is now a range of new WD40 products and one of them is solely described as a penetrating oil .

http://www.halfords.com/motoring/eng...enetrant-250ml

Yes, they've made WD40 a brand - although the name is a specific product 'Water displacement 40th formula' invented in 1953 (which isn't a penetrating oil, it's actually an anti rust treatment) - the 'WD40' brand does have a whole range of spray lubricant and oil products. Still - I'd rather rely on plus-gas when it really needs it (but then that's only diesel and acetone).

19th July 2017, 18:38	#1
theoldcodger the Old Codger Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Buckley Posts: 48 Thanks: 16 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	75 saloon CTDI Does anyone know of a way to free off the seized bolts on the swinging arms on the rear as I need to get the car tracked & ATS cannot free them?

19th July 2017, 20:13	#3
theoldcodger the Old Codger Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Buckley Posts: 48 Thanks: 16 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Trailing arms bolts Thanks for the reply. The bolts in question are at the body end & bolt into the bottom under the seat area & are absolutely rock solid. I haven't tried easing oil but as they are under the body I can't see that would be any good. I have noticed on Car S.O.S & wheeler dealers that there is a a heater tool with a coil on the end which will heat the bolt head & hopefully free it but I can't find one. Have you any ideas?

19th July 2017, 21:49	#5
Avulon This is my second home 1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Tanelorn Posts: 4,830 Thanks: 956 Thanked 1,148 Times in 916 Posts	Blow torch or oxy acetylene - provide there are no rubber bushes in the vicinity to damage, and copious applications of penetrating oil (wd40 is not penetrating oil). A well fitting 6 wall drive socket a 2ft breaker bar and muscle. (it's the same for any rusted nut and bolt) it either eventually undoes or something breaks (sometimes the socket!) At which point the only option is to cut it off. I'd suggest take it a proper garage with a real mechanic - not a tyre fitting shop or 'technician' workshop. When something is badly siezed is needs someone brave enough and skilled enough with plenty of similar experience. The tyre places and fast fit centres don't have the skilled mechanics (in general) to do any job that can't be easily completed with just an air ratchet or hammer. The induction heating things are certainly something that can work, but only really need when the application of flame might damage something else (like rubber bushes). (They are also very expensive). __________________ Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button

19th July 2017, 22:55	#6
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,766 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Decent 18mm hex socket on a windy gun and they will fly out __________________ Lest we forget..

19th July 2017, 19:59	#2
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,926 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	I think these are trailing arms. https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001553 spray with plus gas, leave over night try again and if they wont move, repeat. pneumatic air gun? If its the bolt that goes thru the bush, item 3 in the link above. I had to hammer it out then replace the bush as the bush came apart with the hammering. you may need to take the trailing arm to a work shop to have old bush pushed out and new one pushed in macafee2

20th July 2017, 10:57	#7
theoldcodger the Old Codger Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Buckley Posts: 48 Thanks: 16 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Many thanks, Gents. You have given me some ideas which I might try this weekend