What I did with my Rover 75/MG ZT today?

[marinabrian]

Filled up the ZT, 650 miles on the dot, 12.63 gallons used, so 51.46 MPG, and the message centre reported 50.7 MPG.

Nicked the LSM to use in an old boy's 75 which had a weird fault, brake lights come on when the ignition is turned off, but operate normally while the car is running though

So when I returned home, I programmed a spare from the cupboard under the stairs stock, and lobbed the knackered one in the bin.

Moved onto the wife's Freelander

New distributor cap, rotor arm, and spark plugs, and a pair of new wiper blades, and after tea, I'll be fitting a new exhaust.

MOT booked for Friday morning........this should be interesting

LAND ROVER FREELANDER

Colour Purple
Fuel type Petrol/LPG
Date registered 30 April 1999

MOT expired on 25 May 2011

Brian

[Pete]

Originally Posted by bl52krz

Your bonnet lock, the one that seems to be sticking...... just loosen the two bolts that hold it to the slam panel a bit. Did mine while fitting the new condenser . Work like silk now, but I did my usual over tighten, so just slacked the bolts off a touch, and everything ok now.Surprising how much crud gets between the condenser and radiator, also the oil cooler..

I've been fiddling with the bolt tightness on the n/s lock to get a balance between it being secure and not crimping the spring & latch in the box. I'm probably being a bit fussy with it really.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Moved onto the wife's Freelander

New distributor cap, rotor arm, and spark plugs, and a pair of new wiper blades, and after tea, I'll be fitting a new exhaust.

MOT booked for Friday morning........this should be interesting

LAND ROVER FREELANDER

Colour Purple
Fuel type Petrol/LPG
Date registered 30 April 1999

MOT expired on 25 May 2011

Brian

I've got to go round the sparking bits on the Freelander too as the emissions are awful. That's just one of a very long list on that car though, and includes a suspect cracked chassis.

[skellum]

Fixed my power(less) door mirrors. Removed the switch pod from door, opened it up and cleaned all the contacts, as shown in the How-to on here. Presto, brought back to life.
Refreshing to find something you can sort in 20 minutes.
Going to measure up the boot to make a new floor next.

[roverbarmy]

Originally Posted by skellum

Going to measure up the boot to make a new floor next.

This link may save you a lot of work and some bits are on clearance prices!

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Pete

I've got to go round the sparking bits on the Freelander too as the emissions are awful. That's just one of a very long list on that car though, and includes a suspect cracked chassis.

Just had the hippo on T4, the lambda is switching beautifully, which would indicate a healthy stoichiometric mix.

It's all relative really, there isn't a drop of petrol in the fuel tank at the moment, and a full tank of LPG, so it'll be tested as a LPG car meaning the limits are the 1986 to 1992 non catalyst test, of 3.5% CO, and 1200 ppm hydrocarbons.

If it doesn't meet that level of emissions, I'll be fairly surprised

I'm not expecting a clean pass, I'll be happy if it scrapes through to be fair, which will allow me to give it a good shakedown and a running restoration of sorts, as it's almost nine years since it was last on the road

Brian

[Pete]

This Freelander is the victim of short runs, hardly getting a chance to warm up, and the revs needle has no real idea what the counter looks like north of the number 3. I don't think the leads and cap have been changed in at least 15 years, in fact they may well be the original kit, so they're due a change followed by a good blast. The heater matrix needs changing too in the next couple of weeks.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by Pete

I've got to go round the sparking bits on the Freelander too as the emissions are awful. That's just one of a very long list on that car though, and includes a suspect cracked chassis.

Luckily our Freelander is a TD4, so the engine is pretty much bulletproof. Had loads of other issues to fix over the years, including the cracked chassis - offside rear where the subframe bolts up.

Actually not too bad a job, although if you follow the official technical bulletin it is major work. I had to cut into the top of the box section under the boot floor to get to the captive nut that wasn't doing what it said on the tin and then welded a plate in between the subframe and chassis.


They can be hard work but I've got a soft spot for the Hippos.

[skellum]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

This link may save you a lot of work and some bits are on clearance prices!

Thank you very much for the link- but I've managed to mislead you. I only need to cut and line the wooden carpeted 'floor', whatever we should call it. Thankfully no sheet metal or welding needed!
In fact, underneath the car is quite good. There is noticeable surface rust that needs cleaned up treated, and some work on the rear upper arms.
Thanks again.

[Arctic]

Today after going on a local trip diesel was smelt around the engine bay by a friend, so once back I whipped off the engine cover and found diesel fuel round all the injector, no I know they were all perfect the day before as I did an oil and fluid check after going to Brum on Monday.

It looks like the T hoses have swollen so diesel is getting past them, changed the hoses over after doing a leak back test which was within the limit.

Changed air filter & PCV filter while I was messing in that area, left the engine running for about 45 minutes no leaks no fuel round the injector so tomorrow I will give it a god thrashing to see if it presents its self again under pressure.

Diesel pooling around injector.
1

leak back hoses soaked.
2

3

New hoses fitted & PCV filter changed even though it look ok.
4

5

The hoses looked enlarge to me and out of shape?
6