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4th February 2015, 19:33 | #11 |
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Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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Rimmers have the top hoses, at quite a good price too.
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-PCH119400
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4th February 2015, 21:03 | #12 | |
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2001 Connie SE CDT, 2002 2.0Petrol Laguna SportHatch Join Date: Jul 2011
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Quote:
Next job getting the fbh working just in time for spring
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Today the 23rd of April I will mostly be: Kids, bikes, dog, kids, bikes, dog...Seems to be a pattern forming here Car: Connie SE CDT Manual, Mods: O-Rings, Silicon intercooler hose, Stainless EGR Bypass, BMW PCV Mod, 160 Upgrade, DD Unit, Projector Headlights, Powerflex Bottom Mount, Remote Clutch reservoir, SS Compensator; Inline Stat To Come: cat gut (when replacing iffy section). Meteors after refurb.. |
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4th February 2015, 21:45 | #13 |
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MG ZT-T Join Date: Mar 2013
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I put a new inline thermostat in a few weeks ago the needle is now at 9 o'clock
but the temperature is only reading 75 to 82 I think I will have to try a new one and see what happens. It still heats up fast and the heater is hot.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] My 2004 MG ZT T 2.0 CDTi 135+ Auto http://octopush.awardspace.com/index.htm www.gbuwh.co.uk/ |
5th February 2015, 07:49 | #14 |
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If cold outside and if you use demist or the heater then that would not supprise me.
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5th February 2015, 08:04 | #15 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 CDTI Tourer Join Date: Nov 2014
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Hi, Ken Lion you noticed my deliberate (?) mistake.
As Klarzy says this is the easiest, though more expensive, solution for sorting out the faulty BMW thermostat. |
5th February 2015, 08:37 | #16 | |
This is my second home
All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006
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I just used the pipe on the Car to push the new stat in
But even now in this cold it still only gets to about 80-82 ish , even after my 15 miles to work . ( do have the heater on tho ' ) C. Quote:
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The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's Last edited by ceedy; 5th February 2015 at 08:41.. |
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5th February 2015, 10:56 | #17 |
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Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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The problem with our engines is that they're very thermally efficient - and with the heater on full blast you'll often see a less-than-optimal temperature, even on a long journey.
My last 75 had a new thermostat (OEM BMW) and that will happily sit at low 80s on a very cold morning, the same as my ZT-T with an inline item fitted.
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8th February 2015, 12:26 | #18 |
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75 cdti - Royal Blue + Velocette kss mk2 (1936) + Sunbeam model 9 500cc (1935) Join Date: Jan 2014
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As Whitevanman says, i found it easier to remove the top radiator hose, submerse the end of the hose in boiling water for a few minutes then put some washing up liquid on the end of the rubber pipe and the thermostat pushed in easily, without heating up the rubber hose you will have great difficulty pushing the thermostat into the pipe, makes the job much easier.
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8th February 2015, 19:03 | #19 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT CDTI Join Date: Sep 2007
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Someone on here once accused me of "bodging " a job because I replaced a plug that fails regularly with soldered joints.
Well, if that was a "bodge", then hammering a thermostat down a pipe must be the biggest bodge ever. If you're going to do it, buy the correct piece of kit and do it correctly. Mick |
8th February 2015, 19:11 | #20 |
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The only difference between a bodge and a good repair is the amount of time it lasts between fix and fail...
Your fix was not purist, but it was not a bodge as it worked and will continue to, this is not a bodge because it works and continues to on many cars over a long period of time... I myself fitted the exterior housing mod, but only because it was easier and it is shiny..
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