Ticking noise from under the bonnet when parked and locked.

[edwardmk]

The ZTT 190 has randomly started a ticking from under the bonnet. I went out to investigate and my key fob didn't work so I can't raise up the hood. I knew the key fob battery was low, but the fob worked normally on Thursday night when I parked and locked. There was no apparent noise on Friday when I passed the car outside so it must have started entirely randomly late Friday afternoon. I've now changed the battery in the fob. Old cell was 2.9v and the new one 3.25. Red light is working but no response. I tried the key manually, but nothing engaged in the lock. The ticking has been going now for at least 12 hours. The rate is two ticks per second and can be clearly heard 20' away from the car. Any suggestions urgently invited please before the battery goes flat.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

I tried the key manually, but nothing engaged in the lock.

Hello Martin,

You're saying that inserting the key into the driver's door lock and rotating it through 90 degrees doesn't raise and lower the button in the door card?

Simon

Originally Posted by edwardmk

I can't raise up the hood.

It's the bonnet Martin. Join me in saying no! to the Americanisation of the English language.

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hello Martin,

You're saying that inserting the key into the driver's door lock and rotating it through 90 degrees doesn't raise and lower the button in the door card?

Simon

Morning Simon,

When I put the key in the lock and rotate, nothing seems to engage. The button in the door card remains down and is unaffected This morning the ticking has stopped, so I guess that's the battery exhausted now

It's the bonnet Martin. Join me in saying no! to the Americanisation of the English language.

Lol...You're right. My excuse is I spent 11 years surrounded by Americans, but I can do better

[edwardmk]

Well I have a real challenge now. Car is properly locked. The ticking/clicking noise has stopped, so battery must be flat. I assume that was a relay which has now run down the battery. The bonnet is firmly shut and the wheels straight ahead so access to the panel under the driver's wheel arch is poor. Even if I take the wheel off to get better access to the panel, not sure if I'll get enough access to the bonnet cable. The key does nothing to raise or lower the button in the door card. I think I'll try to get a charger working to preserve the battery if I can get access. I do have a tow socket, so that might be a good place to start for a connection.

[edwardmk]

Tried connecting a battery charger to the trailer socket. I couldn’t find any voltage differential higher than 0.2v. Thought maybe that might be the last breaths of the battery. Connected a CTEK 5 to those pins. It seemed to be OK at first but then just shut itself down so I’ve given up on charging through the tow socket.


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[edwardmk]

Does anyone know if any of the thirteen pins is a direct connection to battery positive?


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[alanaslan]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

Does anyone know if any of the thirteen pins is a direct connection to battery positive?


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The answer to that question is a tin of beans. or is it a can of worms. thirteen pin sockets are meant to be wired up through a magic relay box if the battery is very flat with a constant drain on it then the relay box will not make a direct to anything.
the pin con figuration on a 13 pin socket should be
1) left indicator 1.5mm yellow
2) fog light 1.5mm Blue
3) common return for contacts 1 to 8 2.5mm white
4) right indicator 1.5mm green
5) right hand side lights 1.5mm Brown
6) Brake Lights 1.5mm Red
7) left hand side lights 1.5mm Black
8) reversing light 1.5mm pink
9) continuous power supply 2.5mm orange
10) ignition switched power 2.5mm grey

11) earth contact for pin 10 2.5mm white and black
12) coding for coupled unit should be bridged to pin 3
13) common return for pin 9 2.5mm white and red



The above is the correct wiring for a 13 pin trailer socket with cable rating and colour coding. if the system is connected up through a digital relay pack which is battery fed so there is no direct line for any pin they only connect the socket to the relay power supply.
On my unit pin twelve is the rear camera feed and so is not linked to pin 3

in my car. the common returns are also negative feeds through the digital relay pack so again no direct feed to the vehicle earth it is a controlled pin through the digital relay pack. But the question is then who wired up the tow bar and is power coming through a relay pack or is it just scotch locked onto the light cluster wires direct with a live supply fed to pins 9 and 10.


Best of luck with charging the battery or getting into the car or under the bonnet. I still think your ticking will be the ABS control valve solenoid pump.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by alanaslan

... the under bonnet fuel pump both at the back of the battery box.

Martin's car hasn't got an under-bonnet fuel pump Alan. It's a petrol engine.

Originally Posted by alanaslan

You can blow the diode pack in the Alternator by charging the battery whilst it is still connected to the car.

Just to put this in perspective Alan, it's only if you're careless enough to connect your charger clamps the wrong way around!

Simon

[edwardmk]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Martin's car hasn't got an under-bonnet fuel pump Alan. It's a 1.8 petrol engine.

Just to put this in perspective Alan, it's only if you're careless enough to connect your charger clamps the wrong way around!

Simon

Hi Simon,

It is actually a KV6 190 Simon. I need to update my profile. The ticking noise did sound like some kind of relay on the nearside when it was active. but of course the battery is now discharged.
I've always charged my batteries on the car, rarely taken one off, so re-assuring that as long as I'm careful with polarity, it should be OK. I think the more modern cars though are increasingly sensitive to how they are treated with so many ecu's

[edwardmk]

Bravo Google. So I have a caravan tow socket apparently. I had the earth correct but not the permanent live. Going to try again. Pin 13 (bottom right of locator lug) is earth and pin 9 is the one I need to charge through. Fingers crossed.


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