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7th February 2021, 16:28 | #11 |
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MG ZT 260, Rover 75 Connie SE auto Join Date: Feb 2013
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No combination allows the Ctek 5 to charge via the trailer socket. I've seen this model of charger just shut down on a very flat battery when the regular 'non-smart' charger will just charge it. So it could be oxidised connectors/old wiring or the Ctek not liking the load it's detecting. I'm going to find an old style charger and try that before giving up on charging through the trailer socket. Car may be on the drive for a while! Key won't open the lock manually. Wondering if I inadvertently 'superlocked' the car somehow on Thursday when I was messing with the weak signal on the fob?
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7th February 2021, 17:38 | #12 | |
Doesn't do things by halves
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Quote:
Has any work been done involving removing the driver's door card? Simon
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7th February 2021, 17:46 | #13 | |
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Quote:
Or, if you have a 2nd charged car battery, you could try to fabricate a pos and neg lead from the 2nd battery to plug into the towing socket.
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7th February 2021, 18:06 | #14 |
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I've never had the door card off, but I'm sure it has been off at some point in the past. Rick said the manual key worked OK when he had the car and the battery went flat on him when stored, but I've had the car over a year now, which is plenty of time for something to shake loose behind the card I guess. I don't recollect trying the key to unlock until this weekend.
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7th February 2021, 18:31 | #15 | |
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Quote:
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7th February 2021, 18:34 | #16 |
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If the key worked manually before and no work has been done to the door it will be the cable that has snapped that connects the key assy to the lock assy. door open door card off and strip down reqd
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Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident |
7th February 2021, 20:33 | #17 |
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It does feel like there is nothing there, so a snapped cable would explain that. Just have to get into the car to get started on the door card. Hopefully one of the other locks will open when the battery is re-charged. I've ordered a 10a current limited variable DC supply arriving tomorrow. It was the same price as a 10 amp battery charger from Halfords but more versatile. Hopefully it won't fry the fuse in the tow socket line but will overcome the current drain and charge the battery. I can't push the car so I'll have to make up a 20 metre test lead to the socket so the power supply will be under cover.
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7th February 2021, 21:50 | #18 |
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Don't use a charger through the tow-bar socket.---You need another battery and jump leads.--Go through the live pin on the socket and earth the neg jump lead to a metal part of the car body. Press the key and the doors will immediately open.
I posted this elsewhere recently.--It's very easy and quick to do. Now go get that battery and jump leads and do it.--- |
7th February 2021, 22:14 | #19 | |
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Quote:
I have a thirteen pin socket which I assume is a Euro socket. Pin 9 should be live and pin 13 ground. I was worried the current from another battery might exceed the fuse rating on the circuit if the battery in the car is very flat. It will be great if it works. I guess I could put a 10a in - line fuse as a precaution. I shall give it a try tomorrow and report back |
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8th February 2021, 04:00 | #20 |
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