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Old 25th April 2020, 11:31   #1
chicochapman
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Default Handbrake woes

following on from


https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=304379


where I have one side working ok but not the other - I've looked at the rear of the back plates and the appearance of the locating pin heads looks the same on both sides, so maybe its not the common "corroded through the back plate" fault.
I've tried everything (except Artic's suggestion to use spiral grip sockets because I haven't got any) to remove the caliper mounting bolts so I can see what's going on inside the drum but no luck.

So mainly because the locating pins seem ok, I was wondering whether one side working and one side not was a symptom of compensator failure? or something else?

I've seen Arctic's excellent "how to" replace the compensator and I'm sure I could do that ok if that was a probable cause?
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Old 25th April 2020, 11:52   #2
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It’s not normally a compensator issue when one side is weaker than the other, it’s normally adjustment or something has failed on the wheel end!
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Old 25th April 2020, 12:27   #3
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Have you followed the correct procedure for adjusting the hand brake? You have to slacken the nut that is underneath the actual handbrake lever first, right the way to the top, before adjusting at the wheel. There is a how-to in the technical section by Artic, a good one.
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Old 25th April 2020, 13:28   #4
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No, I hadn't done that. I'd jumped straight in and tried adjusting without slackening off at the hand brake .
I'll try that next, thanks.
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Old 25th April 2020, 16:03   #5
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Slackened off at the handbrake, removing a stack of washers about 3/4"deep and replacing the nut flush with end of the screw.
I moved the adjuster about 60 notches until it came to a full stop.
I wound the nut(minus washers) to the prescribed one inch of thread.

The handbrake now pulls right up about 10 or 11 clicks until it bites.
The off-side wheel is locked ok but no discernible difference to the nearside one.
Is it possible the nearside cable has pulled out of the adjuster?
Any other thoughts?
thanks,
Malc
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Old 25th April 2020, 20:47   #6
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You need to get your caliper off, then the disc and all will be revealed.

People's thoughts won't help you that much Malc, as you will need to confirm the problem before you can fix it anyhow.

If the bolt heads are rounded off then whip the sliders out and that should give you more room to work on the bolts.











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Last edited by Mike Noc; 25th April 2020 at 20:57..
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Old 25th April 2020, 20:51   #7
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Best thing is start at the back and work forward, take each caliper and disc off, clean and adjust the shoes correctly.
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Old 25th April 2020, 21:41   #8
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Hi Malcolm.
As above start at the rear drum discs, jack car up on axle stands, wheels off, undo the torx on the face of the drum.

Front handbrake adjuster to end of the thread, drop the handbrake, the proceed to remove the calipers, remove the disc drum, clean inside the drum, wire brush backs plates and the shoes, pay attention to the expander as they can stick with all the dust after time.

Once you are happy all those are ok adjust the knurled nut so the drum will just about go on, fit the torx then through one of the stud holes adjust the knurled nut again so the drum will not turn, do both then back the knurled nut off a turn a time until you can just feel the drum dragging a little.

Now adjust the front handbrake cable to the 25mm off the top of the nut, put a wheel on by two studs and see if you can turn the wheel by hand with the handbrake on one click, if it turns then try two click, and so until it will not turn hopefully at three clicks.
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Old 25th April 2020, 21:58   #9
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Reading his previous thread Steve, our OP can't get the caliper bolts undone, and they have started to round off.
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Old 25th April 2020, 22:12   #10
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Noc View Post
Reading his previous thread Steve, our OP can't get the caliper bolts undone, and they have started to round off.
Hi Mike.
yes I think I remember now reading that he needs shallow Irwins then he will remove them
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