That front lower arm ball joint - #%&!

[Retap]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Leave the nut on the inner ball joint. Undo it a couple of turns. Fit the splitter and tension it. Hit the splitter at the point it's touching the nut with a 7 lb lump hammer.--This is important because the shock will supply more force than just tightening the splitter.---( Actually will more than double the splitter force. )

Both mine just fell off like this.---

Not jealous


Thats half the battle is getting swinging room under it to batter it into submission. I keep have fleeting flights of fancy about of a nice cosy inspection pit

[Retap]

Originally Posted by xsport

looking at your photo , the first thing i would have done is to remove that rubber gaiter. you need steel to steel contact. second thing was to get some gloves on.....

Yes i had top class lesson on correct ppe, went back out bandaged up with gloves on .



The splitter shown pushes down on the sub frame like a jaw it exerts no force onto the ball joint other than from the tip that presses onto the threaded stub protruding out from underneath the sub frame.

[Retap]

Originally Posted by xsport

agreed. but that shock will not happen due to the rubber absorbing it...

Hmm, rubber acts as damper. Take out and get it resonating?

[Retap]

This easter why not give your loved ones a selection of chocolate ball joint splitters?











Next up

[Retap]

Whoever said use a 7lb sledge hammer you win it came off on about the third decent strike once i got the car up high enough.

[xsport]

Originally Posted by TourerSteve

With the set up in the photo gaiter removal will not make any difference as the splitter is jacking the tapered bolt and reacting against the subframe , With this set up the best way to cause shock is to hit the subframe adjacent to the taper
Had the splitter been the hammer in taper one i would agree with gaitor removal
I have never had to resort to using a splitter yet to release the taper

yes i do agree with what your saying as far as the compression is concerned. my post was however a reply to colverts post suggesting to shock the joint free on the setup depicted in the photo. with the rubber gaiter touching the joint im sure it would indeed take out some sting on the shock method, even if the subframe is struck adjacent to the balljoint... we all can only go on our own experiences , and what works for one may not work for another. some of these arms were fitted without any grease or corrosion prevention whatsoever , and some may never be removed for many years after fitting. as long as it works without any damage, done then all methods are fine. ...

[xsport]

Originally Posted by Retap

Whoever said use a 7lb sledge hammer you win it came off on about the third decent strike once i got the car up high enough.

seen this done a few times. the trick is as you have pointed out, having enough swing room. laying sideways under a car and trying to work upwards , is literally an uphill battle !! it works even better under a four post lift standing up and swinging upwards with legs apart straddling the long handle !! im glad you managed to release the joint, and you can call on your experience for next time. you never know it might just pop out next time with little effort , as mine did following a lavish dose of copperslip to the taper and to the subframe entry point. now to finish the job .... all the best ...

[xsport]

just a word about trying to release the taper joint by dropping onto a solid object. for me ... it never worked !! some members claim to have success with this method , but logically it does not seem to be effective to me , as the taper pin angle is not vertical. it is in fact bored through the subframe offset. it will not be square on impact when dropped sharply on to the support so i would imagine trying to release a taper from a side angle would be very difficult . ... again as i have said in my previous post if it works for you ... thats fine .. as long as no damage has been done in all respects . ...

[Retap]

Originally Posted by xsport

seen this done a few times. the trick is as you have pointed out, having enough swing room. laying sideways under a car and trying to work upwards , is literally an uphill battle !! it works even better under a four post lift standing up and swinging upwards with legs apart straddling the long handle !! im glad you managed to release the joint, and you can call on your experience for next time. you never know it might just pop out next time with little effort , as mine did following a lavish dose of copperslip to the taper and to the subframe entry point. now to finish the job .... all the best ...

Cheers.


Happy to report i was test driving as the sun set and sat here typing this with tools away and showered enjoying a well earned glass of wine. The technique was to put the car up on max length of axle stands under front subframe and then from next to the passenger front door i managed to swing the sledge hammer with good force and like i said on about the third wack the blissful crack and ping of the separation followed by my little shout of triumph which also including some expletives. In future I will never mess about doing it any other way after that experience but prefer not to have do this again for a very long time.

[xsport]

well done mr retap ... its a nice feeling when you eventually reach your goal , even if the hands feel like fire !!! i found it better to lie under the car on the nearside wishbone side that you were doing , with my head facing towards the front of the car. this gives you the correct angle for hammering (if your right handed ) and your blows will be in line angle wise with the taper pin. it works the other way round for the drivers side , facing the opposite way for the drivers side , with head facing the rear of the car. what a laugh RAVE says to release the taper pin use a copper mallet to tap it out of the subframe. .. i do recall one post on here by marinabrian, in which he said that he came across one taper joint on our cars , that he heated up the pin until cherry red and had four foot bars levering under the subframe , but still no avail !!! he decided that next time he would remove the subframe rather than mess about any more . some can be an absolute nightmare to remove, so i guess every one is different. anyway ... well done ...