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Old 5th October 2019, 07:47   #11
pletevl
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Hi. No, mine has nothing to do with the clutch.
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Old 6th October 2019, 09:40   #12
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Put the car on T4 yesterday. All analog sensors are reading correctly.
But, the car doesn't always pass the idle valve test. It passes every other test I do.
I replaced the iacv valve with one from my ZR and its the same. I replaced the Map / air temp sensor, just in case, and no change.
On T4 under "MISSFIRE" cylinder 1 is giving out misfires, so I changed plug and coil, same problem.!!!!
Anyone have an idea?
Would a dodgy injecter does this?
I've checked for air leaks with easy start, none found.

This is doing my head in now ��

Pete.
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Old 6th October 2019, 11:05   #13
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I suppose it's possible a bad injector could cause this.
The ECU would be trying to compensate by leaning off the fuel mixture if the problem with the injector is that it's over fueling and the lambda is telling the ECU that the car is too rich, so, it would cause bad idle, and cutting out etc.

Has the car done many miles? What fuel do you have over there? ( Your in France arent you? ) Ethanol and plastic fuel injectors are bad news.
Is the car in regular use, or does it sit for a long while in between use?
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Old 6th October 2019, 13:51   #14
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Yes in France. Using E10 fuel. The car has 70000 miles on it but has been playing up for a couple of years now. Its much better in the summer. As the temperature drops towards autumn it starts playing up.
T4 doesn't show any injecter Instabilties, all four have the same value, I don't remember them though.
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Old 7th October 2019, 08:03   #15
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Can anyone explain this thing about E10 fuel and plastic injecteurs?
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Old 8th October 2019, 21:05   #16
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I'm now in the exact same position as you pletevl with my 75.


Will let you know if I find a solution but I'm not hopeful...
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Old 9th October 2019, 00:02   #17
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How old are the plug leads, and are they carbon, or copper? Carbon leads deteriorate - copper is ultimately better long term.
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Old 9th October 2019, 06:20   #18
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They were replaced about a year ago to see if that was the problem. It wasn't.
Pete.
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Old 9th October 2019, 06:25   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mbonwick View Post
I'm now in the exact same position as you pletevl with my 75.


Will let you know if I find a solution but I'm not hopeful...
You've got to stay hopeful, don't give up.
I've ran out of ideas, I've changed nearly everything except the injecters.

We have another TF that's fine and a ZR that's starting to play up, it doesn't stall yet but smells rich and is getting lumpy on tick over in the morning. And misfires under load under 2500 rpm. Above that it's fine.
Pete.
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Old 9th October 2019, 15:55   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pletevl View Post
Can anyone explain this thing about E10 fuel and plastic injecteurs?
I'll do my best, this is how I understand it, someone may correct me if I'm wrong, but basically here goes.

Ethanol is basically a type of alcohol.
Alcohol is corrosive to certain plastics, rubber fuel lines and certain metal lined fine nozzles, i.e. everything you have in a Rover k series fuel injector.

The reason that petrol is being " watered down " with Ethanol is to reduce exhaust emissions, but your car wont achieve the mpg it used to with full on unleaded.
The other main problem with Ethanol is if left for long periods of time, so a classic car or a car which only sees sunny day motoring, the fuel " phase shifts " and the Ethanol starts to break down to its component elements, one of which is water!
So, rusty fuel tanks, dissolving rubber fuel lines, plastic fuel injectors, if it's a classic car with a plastic float in the carb. then this is fair game to be munched as well.

Not very good all around really.
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