Will this 17 amp cable do the job?

[MissMoppet]

Am trying to replace a dud silver fan resistor with the gold one and need to add a few inches of cable to make life easier. Like most people I have boxes of domestic 3 and 2 core cable but no single core. But have come across this from Eurocarparts which would seem to do the job as I don't want to buy a 100m drum. As my electrical knowledge stopped at Mr Ohms Law 60 odd years ago would some kind member please confirm? Many thanks.

[another_clean_sheet]

Originally Posted by MissMoppet

Am trying to replace a dud silver fan resistor with the gold one and need to add a few inches of cable to make life easier. Like most people I have boxes of domestic 3 and 2 core cable but no single core. But have come across this from Eurocarparts which would seem to do the job as I don't want to buy a 100m drum. As my electrical knowledge stopped at Mr Ohms Law 60 odd years ago would some kind member please confirm? Many thanks.

From memory the gold resistor is 100 watts. Therefore 100/12 volts says current is 8.3 amps. So you have a safety margin of 50% which seems more than adequate.

[Andy_with_a_screwdriver]

Originally Posted by MissMoppet

Am trying to replace a dud silver fan resistor with the gold one and need to add a few inches of cable to make life easier. Like most people I have boxes of domestic 3 and 2 core cable but no single core. But have come across this from Eurocarparts which would seem to do the job as I don't want to buy a 100m drum. As my electrical knowledge stopped at Mr Ohms Law 60 odd years ago would some kind member please confirm? Many thanks.

You need to ensure it is multi-stranded 'flex' cable as opposed to single core (one copper wire) solid cable as most domestic stuff is. Vibrations will cause the latter to deteriorate and break, hence the need for flex.
The linked item would appear to be fine.

[Jamiewelch]

4mm Thinwall is what the car left the factory with on the resistor, that is what I'd be using.

You can buy 1m of 4mm thinwall below

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203661086...3ABFBMsv7Z45Bh

[Arctic]

Hi Dave.
The advice and wires above are what you need to follow, multistrand wire, add a spade end to the wire, then solder it too the resistor, then use a good quality heat shrink to cover the spade over, at the other end of the tail add a straight crimp, you can then strip back your original wire coming from the fan, slip another good piece of heat shrink over the wire crimp or solder the joint the choice is yours then cover with the heat shrink.

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Remembering you will need to drill the pilot holes in the new resistor to match the original bracket or lugs on the fan, always try to use the original bracket if you can.
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I use wiring from the Rover 75 car loom we keep for the meets

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=216734

[MissMoppet]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Dave.
The advice and wires above are what you need to follow, multistrand wire, add a spade end to the wire, then solder it too the resistor, then use a good quality heat shrink to cover the spade over, at the other end of the tail add a straight crimp, you can then strip back your original wire coming from the fan, slip another good piece of heat shrink over the wire crimp or solder the joint the choice is yours then cover with the heat shrink.

Remembering you will need to drill the pilot holes in the new resistor to match the original bracket or lugs on the fan, always try to use the original bracket if you can.

I use wiring from the Rover 75 car loom we keep for the meets

https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=216734

Thanks Steve: Yep I'm doing all that. Rather stolen my thunder there as I was all set to add some pics, but as ever you've beaten me to it. But I did manage to take it off without removing the bumper and crash bar.

[edwardmk]

Steve's post is what in Cornwall they call 'proper job'. Crimping is fine for years if done well, but longer term you can't beat solder and heat shrink.

[MissMoppet]

Originally Posted by edwardmk

Steve's post is what in Cornwall they call 'proper job'. Crimping is fine for years if done well, but longer term you can't beat solder and heat shrink.

Now that's a dangerous topic. See here of many of the discussions of crimp or solder. This one says: "While it may be painful for some people to hear, the reality is that in the automotive industry this has long ago been settled. The gold standard is to (properly) crimp wires where possible. This is what industry does, and what you should do, too. Whether you’re splicing or attaching a terminal makes no difference. To verify this just take a look under the hood and you’ll find hundreds of crimps, but virtually no soldering. As long as you have the right tools, crimping is the way to go."

[SD1too]

Hello Dave (MissMoppet),

You may like to support this British supplier which offers an excellent range of automotive wiring available by the metre.

Originally Posted by MissMoppet

Now that's a dangerous topic. See here of many of the discussions of crimp or solder. This one says: "While it may be painful for some people to hear, the reality is that in the automotive industry this has long ago been settled. The gold standard is to (properly) crimp wires where possible. This is what industry does, and what you should do, too. Whether you’re splicing or attaching a terminal makes no difference. To verify this just take a look under the hood and you’ll find hundreds of crimps, but virtually no soldering. As long as you have the right tools, crimping is the way to go."

As far as this quote is concerned, I suspect that the industry uses crimped joints because it's cheaper and quicker than soldering during assembly, not because it's more secure. There are, of course, thousands of soldered joints inside ECUs. I'd recommend following Arctic's method.

Simon

[MissMoppet]

To round off this topic - of changing a dud resistor without removing the bumper or crash bar - I should perhaps have mentioned that in case you've not noticed the fan blades are not equi-distant if that's the correct term. There is one hole that is significantly bigger than the rest that does enable you to get both hands in and hold the gold resistor much more comfortably. All you then need is a short or stubby screwdriver - mine is 3ins long - that allows you to remove the lower bolt on the bracket.