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20th September 2018, 04:05 | #1 |
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Heater Matrix - direction please ...
Firstly a BIG thank you to all those members who helped this Rover 'newby'. Following refilling instructions 'to the letter', I no longer lose water but I do still have a small issue with the heater. After flushing out the cooling system, I slowly refilled taking over an hour. The system took almost exactly 7.5 litres of coolant. Disconnecting the heater pipe connection near the battery, I noted blowing one end caused fluid to come out the other. As water seems to flow in and out of the matrix quite freely, I thought all was good. But this is where I need some direction, please. The heater is luke warm. Rear, left and right vents all work OK and the temperature is constant at all outlets ... but it is luke warm and only once the thermostat kicks in. NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD-NAUGHTY WORD- cold until then Although water/coolants move freely through the matrix, and without any apparent restriction, I would have thought the matrix to be OK BUT, I do note the heater pipe that passes near the battery is significantly cooler than the other heater pipe. This has me quite confused as it seems to defy logic. Why would the two pipes vary so much in temperature when water/coolant moves so freely through the matrix? To my expert friends out there, does this still sound like a matrix replacement to you? As usual I bow graciously to the higher powers amongst you
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20th September 2018, 08:33 | #2 |
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I'd suggest that the matrix is quite blocked up, in spite of your observations. These are good, but your conclusions are uncertain. The question is coolant flow rate through the complete matrix. Its design has lots of pipes in parallel, left to right, so with a large part of these blocked, there will still be a reduced flow. Certainly enough to pass your 'blow though the pipes' test. This also explains why the outlet hose is significanntly cooler than the inlet. I therefore suggest trying a hosepipe backflush through the matrix to remove any loose detritus. If that doesn't fix it, you may have to replace the matrix. Some people have descaled it using chemicals.
TC Last edited by T-Cut; 20th September 2018 at 08:36.. |
21st September 2018, 07:54 | #3 |
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NOW a Club Tourer was 1999 - 75 2.0Ltr Connoisseur SE petrol Saloon Join Date: Jan 2012
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Be very careful with descaling. Use very little as it can and possibly will compromise the metal in the matrix. My old one became a "pepper-pot" after descaling! It would seem scale was in fact helping keeping water in.....
Also be aware that fitting a replacement matrix can be tricky. The joints used are not the best or easiest to master and being very difficult to get to doesn't help. Only use a genuine matrix if possible, some after market ones will not fit without some joggling of the frame. I did post my experiences some time ago on here if you can find it.
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21st September 2018, 08:16 | #4 |
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I used to take off the heater matrix pipes in the engine compartment, blow the old coolant out, refill with a flushing agent until the agent comes out of the other pipe and then cork the pipes. Leave to stand overnight if poss, then backflush with a hose. This was not on a 75/ZT but always worked well.
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29th September 2018, 00:10 | #5 | |
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Quote:
Last edited by pieterm; 29th September 2018 at 00:13.. |
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29th September 2018, 07:24 | #6 | |
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Quote:
Simon
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29th September 2018, 13:39 | #7 |
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Sometimes, the matrix is blocked in the middle but free at the end where the pipes go in and out. The coolant takes the point of least resistance, ie straight in and out again without circulating through the matrix.
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1st October 2018, 22:55 | #8 |
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That's what I suspected but when I ran the test with boiling water ... that is, took the matrix out and poured boiling water into it .. it was burning hot all over. No cold patches. Have now invested in a vacuum kit and will let everyone know the outcome on this thread
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1st October 2018, 22:53 | #9 |
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Yes, raised the tank. I let the water dribble in ... instructions did say slow I took around two hours in total ... including many cups of tea etc. Still not certain of the issue as if I start the car then turn it off for a while, then restart sometimes I get a different result. That is, sometimes both pipes are cold but sometimes top is cold and bottom hot. I've now invested in a vacuum kit so hopefully that will be the end of airlocks ! I'll keep everyone informed of the result on this thread.
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5th November 2018, 18:02 | #10 |
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Heater cold
Hi, I've had a problem with my V6 75 blowing cold/luke warm. Now i've been a motor mechanic for over 50 years, so I know a bit. I traced the fault on mine to the oil cooler and water pipes going to and coming from the cooler being blocked. I bypassed the cooler and hey presto the heater works perfectly. I think the blockage was causing a back pressure in the return pipe and stopping the flow from the heater. Just to point out that the return pipe from the cooler is teed into the return pipe from the heater. Best of luck.
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