Stopping Rust

[mbonwick]

Originally Posted by Blink

Any particular products you'd recommend for these three?

• Acid etch primer
• Zinc/red oxide
• Black topcoat

Not really, just a decent quality paint - definitely not cheap unbranded Chineseium.


I'd also avoid Hammerite as that doesn't seem to cure properly these days.

[kaiser]

dinitrol

Originally Posted by mbonwick

The only real way to stop rust is to grind it all out, back to sound metal, treat with a rust converter, then use a good paint system (acid etch primer, zinc/red oxide, couple of coats of black topcoat, then a couple more of stonechip + wax such as Bilt Hamber Dynax)

This is not exactly true. The rust should be solid, and rust converter will work. So no rusty flaky dusty substrate!
That is the beauty of rust convertors, they actually work on rust!
Then treat with a good over coat. After that VAXOIL/TECTYL/DINITROL and other products like that will form a waxy/oily surface, especially inside cavities and hollows, and almost completely prevent rust from forming there..

[kaiser]

Originally Posted by mbonwick

Not really, just a decent quality paint - definitely not cheap unbranded Chineseium.


I'd also avoid Hammerite as that doesn't seem to cure properly these days.

I have had excellent results with Hammerite and Rustoleum.
If you are treating cavities, I think a non hardening paint might actually be an advantage, although I have never had problems with Hammerite not curing!
I have a lot of respect for the American paints I have used. they seem to be of extraordinary quality!

[gnu]

Originally Posted by Blink

Which is best for doing the sills - the jerry can version of S50 with a proper injection kit (like this one), or the aerosol version of S50?

I used the aerosols, which came with a long 360 degree injection lance (S50 for internal cavities eg sills). If you have the proper injection tools I'm sure that's better, but the aerosols work adequately. For external areas I generally used I used the XB.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by mbonwick

Not really, just a decent quality paint - definitely not cheap unbranded Chineseium.


I'd also avoid Hammerite as that doesn't seem to cure properly these days.

Ok, thanks Michael. I'll definitely avoid Chineseium .

[Blink]

Originally Posted by gnu

I used the aerosols, which came with a long 360 degree injection lance (S50 for internal cavities eg sills). If you have the proper injection tools I'm sure that's better, but the aerosols work adequately. For external areas I generally used I used the XB.

Ah, I didn't realise the aerosols came with a lance - which is why I was thinking of a proper tool. The Sealey SG18 has two extension probes, one of which is a 360 degree job. It's not cheap though - £74.50 is the best price I can find (Amazon). The SG19 is a lot cheaper (£44.01) but it's not a high pressure system.

Good point about the UB - I'd forgotten about that one and would probably have ended up using S50 instead (for external surfaces).

NB. There's also a UC (clear version) just in case you don't fancy plastering everything with black stuff - 3rd from left, 2nd row.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by kaiser

I have had excellent results with Hammerite and Rustoleum.
If you are treating cavities, I think a non hardening paint might actually be an advantage, although I have never had problems with Hammerite not curing!
I have a lot of respect for the American paints I have used. they seem to be of extraordinary quality!

Do you mean POR-15?