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Old 23rd September 2014, 20:07   #1
Samuelle
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Default Best Tool for Front Anti-Roll Bar Drop Link Top Nut?

I've read Eigger's very helpful how-to on replacing the anti-roll bar drop links:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ll+bar+top+nut

I thought this was going to be an easy job, but that top nut is seriously restricted access. You can't get a socket or ring spanner over it , and there is only 10 - 20 degrees of space (tops) to turn a spanner. Angle grinding the old one off is OK, but you've still got to get the new one on. Is the best bet to find a tool that can get a grip on the top nut, then turning the whole drop link into the top nut, rather than vice versa.

Any tips or advice on the best tool for this small space would be much appreciated. Thanks -Dan.
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Old 23rd September 2014, 20:38   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuelle View Post
I've read Eigger's very helpful how-to on replacing the anti-roll bar drop links:

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ll+bar+top+nut

I thought this was going to be an easy job, but that top nut is seriously restricted access. You can't get a socket or ring spanner over it , and there is only 10 - 20 degrees of space (tops) to turn a spanner. Angle grinding the old one off is OK, but you've still got to get the new one on. Is the best bet to find a tool that can get a grip on the top nut, then turning the whole drop link into the top nut, rather than vice versa.

Any tips or advice on the best tool for this small space would be much appreciated. Thanks -Dan.
Simple, when you are fitting the new ones measure carefully and saw the excess thread from the top links (with the nuts fitted so that they clean up the sawn area as you undo them) this gives plenty of room for a ring spanner.

Last edited by wuzerk; 23rd September 2014 at 20:40..
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Old 23rd September 2014, 20:56   #3
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I do them with 2 combination spanners, never yet had a problem getting them on or off. Not much of a turn on them, 1/4 turn at best but be thankful, wait till you do the front bolt on the wishbone bushes
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Old 23rd September 2014, 21:03   #4
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Sawing a bit off the end works, but also I've had success wedging a screwdriver between a nut flat and the surrounding bit that makes access such a PITA and then turning the drop link itself using the hex flats provided to tighten.
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Old 23rd September 2014, 21:28   #5
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Originally Posted by wuzerk View Post
Simple, when you are fitting the new ones measure carefully and saw the excess thread from the top links (with the nuts fitted so that they clean up the sawn area as you undo them) this gives plenty of room for a ring spanner.
Yup thanks for that. I was trying it with a fat cheap 15mm ring spanner, so I'll try a decent quality one (all my decent tool sizes atm are common 80's or 90's Jap motorcycle sizes)
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Old 23rd September 2014, 21:34   #6
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Originally Posted by okenora View Post
I do them with 2 combination spanners, never yet had a problem getting them on or off. Not much of a turn on them, 1/4 turn at best but be thankful, wait till you do the front bolt on the wishbone bushes
But cut the top off the thread before fitting the new one and angle grind the old one off?
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Old 23rd September 2014, 21:44   #7
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Originally Posted by TeeCee View Post
Sawing a bit off the end works, but also I've had success wedging a screwdriver between a nut flat and the surrounding bit that makes access such a PITA and then turning the drop link itself using the hex flats provided to tighten.
That crossed my mind as well. Thanks for the advice all of you. I feel a bit if a duffus since I was asking after failing with one crappy quality 15mm spanner, but I only have a few days left until mot retest limit so panicked a bit because I assumed it was easy. (I miss my pre-procreation motorcycle days at times like this - life was so simple I'll have at it again with some decent 15mm spanners. Thanks
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Old 23rd September 2014, 21:54   #8
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But cut the top off the thread before fitting the new one and angle grind the old one off?
Never had to grind one off yet but yes to shortening the protruding thread
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Old 24th September 2014, 03:12   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuelle View Post
That crossed my mind as well. Thanks for the advice all of you. I feel a bit if a duffus since I was asking after failing with one crappy quality 15mm spanner, but I only have a few days left until mot retest limit so panicked a bit because I assumed it was easy. (I miss my pre-procreation motorcycle days at times like this - life was so simple I'll have at it again with some decent 15mm spanners. Thanks
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Originally Posted by okenora View Post
Never had to grind one off yet but yes to shortening the protruding thread
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=192709
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Old 24th September 2014, 11:51   #10
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Default Roll bar link

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Ditto in spades to shortening the top thread! BUT make sure you don't disturb the seal while holding the link in position while you tighten the nut.....if you don't you'll be doing the job again in a years time......or less!
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