Handbrake adjustment problems - fairly long post

[baxlin]

Planned two jobs today, replacing the reverse light switch, and adjusting the handbrake.

First one easy after I'd shortened a ring spanner as space was a bit restricted, but had problems with the H/brake adjusters.

Firstly that nice Mr Haynes doesn't say which way to turn the adjusters at all, but I found the how-to on here. But this says to turn them "under" rather than "over". I assumed this meant move the teeth downwards.

Passenger side seemed OK, but I reached what felt like the end of the adjustment, and with the wheel off the disc wouldn't turn.

On the drivers side, I did the same, moved the teeth downwards, and there seemed to be very little resistance. As I couldn't get this side to bind at all, I realised the adjusters must be "handed". So Q1, is this correct?

Anyway, readjusted it the other way, and got it to tighten, so I put the wheels back on. OK drivers side, but brake action useless on passenger side. Off came the wheels again, but now I cannot move the passenger side adjuster at all, either way.

So now, I've got little or no handbrake, & if this wasn't bad enough in itself, the MoT test's in a couple of weeks time.

A further problem is that the cable is tightened up more than the recommended 25mm of thread, but when I slackened this off back to 25mm, I had hardly any handbrake at all.

The car's done 126000 miles, and although it has all the stamps in the service book, it's the first time I've done anything with the handbrake myself.

I think it's a phone call first thing Monday to the local independent, for it to be sorted out, but I suspect new cables are required.

Anyone any other suggestions (preferably helpful as I'm not really in the mood for jokes) please?

Thanks in advance

malcolm

[stocktake]

Hi Malcolm,

Adjusters are one goes up and one goes down to adjust up (Edit.. I think, see lates post). Mine is also over the 25mm thread showing but my handbrake still holds albeit near the top. I am assuming that I need to replace my shoes. It is probable you will need to remove the disc now to investigate your problem.

Sorry cannot help more.

[nisfo]

I would agree that you cables need replacing. I had a similar problem last year, I had the cables changed, the car now holds itself on steep gradients.....Although I still leave it in gear.

Also found that after time the handbrake will pinch your rear disc's in time, so maybe get them checked out too.....

Other than that I'm 100% sure someone will be along to suggest alternatives....

[sylvester]

The handbrake shoes on the 75 perform no other function than to hold the car and as such should last forever unless the driver likes performing handbrake turns or runs with the shoes binding all the time. Similarly the cables are stout enough to hold a ship in dock so the likelihood of them stretching more than a few thousands of an inch are unlikely. They will probably corrode and break first.
My advice on this occasion is to start again before putting any cash in your dealers pocket. Set the cable to where it should be, turn the in drum adjusters until the disc will not turn then back off the adjustment by a couple of clicks - then set the adjustment in the car until the brake is full on at the fourth click.
From my motorcycle experience the thing not to do is to try and make the brake work by simply adjusting the cable - there is the danger that the brake operating cam in the drum will go over centre and lock itself on.

[sworks]

Originally Posted by sylvester

The handbrake shoes on the 75 perform no other function than to hold the car and as such should last forever unless the driver likes performing handbrake turns or runs with the shoes binding all the time. Similarly the cables are stout enough to hold a ship in dock so the likelihood of them stretching more than a few thousands of an inch are unlikely. They will probably corrode and break first.
My advice on this occasion is to start again before putting any cash in your dealers pocket. Set the cable to where it should be, turn the in drum adjusters until the disc will not turn then back off the adjustment by a couple of clicks - then set the adjustment in the car until the brake is full on at the fourth click.
From my motorcycle experience the thing not to do is to try and make the brake work by simply adjusting the cable - there is the danger that the brake operating cam in the drum will go over centre and lock itself on.

good advice

[rovermech]

Hi
At your mileage I would take the disc's off and inspect the shoes, I bought my 75 with 30,000 mile on the clock and the handbrake lever on about twenty clicks to hold the car! it had a new mot and the garage said the handbrake was normal, I told them I would bring it back the next day and show them how the handbrake should be. I loosened the cables right off and took the disc's off and cleaned all the muck and dust out, greased the adjusters and adjusted the shoes so I could just get the disc/drum back on
with the wheels back on and turning free I adjusted the cable, the handbrake locked the wheels on three clicks. When I went back to the garage they said they don't have time to take the disc off and the handbrake should'nt wear!
If the jobs worth doing do it right

[Westfield or 75]

Originally Posted by sylvester

The handbrake shoes on the 75 perform no other function than to hold the car and as such should last forever unless the driver likes performing handbrake turns or runs with the shoes binding all the time. Similarly the cables are stout enough to hold a ship in dock so the likelihood of them stretching more than a few thousands of an inch are unlikely.

I wouldnt say this was sound advice at all, in fact i would say its utter rubbish ! The handbrake cables DO STRETCH ! Why on earth do you think they go to the trouble of putting adjusters on both ends of the cable???

The only way to get a handbrake to perform like it is new is to replace the cables, end of !

[baxlin]

Thanks for all the advice, chaps, unfortunately I can't just start the job again, that's where the problem lies - I can't move one of the adjusters! (the other one seems fine). I wouldn't mind taking the discs off to look, but I'm concerned about the cables as well.

I do hate failing to complete what seemed to be a straightforward job, but in view of working full time (so can't work on it till next weekend) and the not completely agreeing opinions expressed, I hope the garage can pull the job in this week.

Will report back soonest.

thanks again

malcolm

[stocktake]

Originally Posted by baxlin

Thanks for all the advice, chaps, unfortunately I can't just start the job again, that's where the problem lies - I can't move one of the adjusters! (the other one seems fine). I wouldn't mind taking the discs off to look, but I'm concerned about the cables as well.

I do hate failing to complete what seemed to be a straightforward job, but in view of working full time (so can't work on it till next weekend) and the not completely agreeing opinions expressed, I hope the garage can pull the job in this week.

Will report back soonest.

thanks again

malcolm

Sorry no definative answer Malcolm, will welcome report back as I am certain I am heading in the same direction. Best guess for me is cable replacement once they have "unlocked" the adjuster

[Lates]

Unless I have been doing it wrong I turn both adjusters upwards to tighten