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Old 30th April 2019, 07:37   #1
Rev Jules
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Default Jacking Pad Opinion?

I have recently been told to leave the Jacking pads out of the car because they are drain holes!!!

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Old 30th April 2019, 07:41   #2
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Originally Posted by Rev Jules View Post
I have recently been told to leave the Jacking pads out of the car because they are drain holes!!!

Rev
They most certainly will act as drain holes, provided there is more than 10mm of standing water in the sill that is

I would be tempted to leave them in place, that will stop crud being splashed up inside the sill.

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Old 30th April 2019, 09:45   #3
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My 4 jacking points are now welded over with new plates on the sill, braced to the internal reinforced section. There are plenty of drain points on my Mk 1, which I check regularly, and use to inject the sill with Dynax S50. With the 360 degree lance provided, you can go either side of the drain holes to fully coat the inside of the sills. You can also inject at either end of the sills after moving the arch liners out of the way.
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Old 30th April 2019, 09:56   #4
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Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
My 4 jacking points are now welded over with new plates on the sill, braced to the internal reinforced section. There are plenty of drain points on my Mk 1, which I check regularly, and use to inject the sill with Dynax S50. With the 360 degree lance provided, you can go either side of the drain holes to fully coat the inside of the sills. You can also inject at either end of the sills after moving the arch liners out of the way.
I had that done on Banana a few years back. Being done again whilst she is in the paint shop. Helps to prolong the life of the car.
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Old 30th April 2019, 19:20   #5
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Talk about ‘fake news’. The holes that are there are specifically for the pads.Some shall we say, not very informed people recommend leaving them out. What, so all the muck that is thrown up onto the sills can enter the holes? Does not leave much to the imagination as to what happens then. I carry in my boot, a piece of roofing felt in case I discover one or more of mine have fallen off. Cut a piece to completely cover the hole, and fix it with bathroom sealant. My sons car has one affixed by myself around 5 years ago and it is still there now doing its job of keeping the muck out of the inside of the sill.
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Old 30th April 2019, 20:24   #6
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There are plenty of smaller drain holes along the full length of the sill
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Old 3rd May 2019, 15:11   #7
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However, there is one disadvantage to them.....

In place, moisture sits between the pad and the body. Around the hole is a panel seam, between the main sill/car side and the internal jacking point support.

This seam has no seam sealer ans is only covered by paint. I have seen the paint over these seams crack at the point of the joint, presumably due to the small amount of flexing whilst jacking the car.

Potentially the moisture that sits between the pad and body could enter into the seam here to cause corrosion.

My solution was to apply flexible polyurethane sealant around the panel seam, which should prevent any problems. Alternatively a thin closed-cell foam gasket between the pad and body should work.

BUT - the main moisture ingress into the rear section of the sill appears to do far far more damage (i.e. corrosion) anyway, so these seams around the jacking points are probably not worth worrying about (unless you can prevent the main ingress).

I think the main moisture ingress route is via the final trim clip hole for the sill trim. The trim appears to move backwards a bit in use, seemingly causing the rear end of the trim to touch the sill and effectively pull the trim away from the body very slightly, which I think opens a small gap between the final trim clip and it's hole, allowing water to get in. I sealed the clips into place with polyurethane sealer/adhesive, so they are effectively glued, which should prevent the problem.

Of course I could be completely wrong on all this, but those were my conclusions from looking very carefully at both the cars I owned. The one I did the sealing to I have now sold so cannot report on the long-term effectiveness that this would have in preventing corrosion.
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Old 4th May 2019, 09:15   #8
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The two jacking pads on the back of my car are welded over with a plate following repair work to cut out the rotted rear jacking points. This was done to cut out the rot and to pass the MOT. I intend at some point in the future to get the points back to their original condition. Tom Hobbs has been mentioned on here as doing a great job of this. Its not an instant priority however.

I did wonder about drainage but again as mentioneed the drainage is provided for by a series of much smaller holes along the sill.


One thing that I have noticed however is this...and I don't wish to appear as Mr Picky but.....

The car came with no jacking pads so I bought a couple and have fitted them onto the front two points.

And I have to admit that when walking back to the car and looking at it as approaching a good few times I have thought 'what thats sticking out under the car?' as in a 'whats dropping off it now' kind of way.

And its the two front jacking pads which totally destroy the clean lines of the sill line of the car. It's not a problem or anything but seems a shame the way they stick out and spoil the line of the bottom of the car.

Some people keep theirs in the boot and just pop them on when needed but I replaced mine because of the thought of muck and moisture getting up into the sill throiugh the larger jacking pad holes as again someone has mentioned on here.
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Old 4th May 2019, 13:38   #9
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I prefer the "welded over and smooth", as the original design with the upturned edges internally, will obviously retain any crud and dampness at the bottom of the sill and lead to rot eventually. The plates were made from a thickness and overall size that can still be used as a support by any jack.
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Old 4th May 2019, 17:32   #10
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Front pad was missing on mine when I went to jack it up, removed a rear one to find wet mud between pad and sill, rest of underneath was dry. is this why jacking points rust?.
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