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Old 12th June 2021, 18:37   #61
TourerSteve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyRover View Post
Whilst you lot have been debating the finer points of torque wrenches two things have happened:

1. Most poignantly I broke my torque wrench. I've never really used it as a torque wrench - more a breaker bar as I picked it up in a lightening sale on amazon for a pretty penny and have my Dad's 60 year old one I use for when it matters. It's on the highest setting but with 5 foot of box steel over the end trying to undo these wishbone bolts from the subframe the ring spanner held up (despite looking like a bend it like Beckham) and then the wrench went WHACK! and the innards fell out in pieces. Don't make em like they used to eh?

2. I bought a hexagonal socket for the rear bolt and after two days of penetrating oil gave it a good tug with the torque wrench, swivel head and shorter length of box steel for leverage. I could swear I felt it shift and was so convinced it moved I took the box steel off as I thought I was about to just unwind it but alas the socket had slipped

3. When the socket slipped it damaged the bolt head - only slightly and nothing to worry about just yet but I checked my extractor set just in case and I only have 17 and 19mm

I've got a breaker bar coming tomorrow on Prime and am running out of options. Any issues me getting the blow torch on these suckers??? Can't think of anything else to free them - I don't think the bush would be affected but my new wishbone has a new one anyways

Not had a good day then ! If your socket slipped has your bolt head wasted away ? and as a result your socket a loose fit over the bolt head ? If so can you fit a smaller socket eg 17 mm or an imperial 11/16 which is approximately 17.5 mm as the tighter your socket or spanner the better chance of undoing the bolt ! Heat can be applied to the subframe but obviously will have to check for any combustible material within the area heated . I would advise fitting new bolts when rebuilding

Last edited by TourerSteve; 12th June 2021 at 19:12..
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Old 12th June 2021, 18:59   #62
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Although the swivel head swivels I think it still means pulling at a slight angle and with penetrating oil residue it slipped off. I've got a feeling the breaker bar will give me a better shot at it - will report back tomorrow. I'm trying to do this in between managing a 1 year old and 4 year old whilst the wife puts a few shifts in so it's difficult...
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Old 12th June 2021, 18:59   #63
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Billy Rover.---I do truly feel very sorry for you in your predicament.

My two bolts put up a bit of a fight I wasn't go to take NO for an answer and they finally gave in.

I was only doing the side that had the damage rubber insert but I had bought both sides just in case.---The other side was OK. However while I was under the car I loosened and tightened the other two bolts for when I might need to remove them.--They were easier than the first two.---

As I said in a previous post I used leg power on the tube I had over the good quality ring spanner.--Nothing bent or broke. After reading all of the other posts on this thread I guess I must have been lucky.---

They probably would respond to an impact wrench as a shock quite often undoes really tight nuts and bolts but these difficult so and so's are difficult just get at them.
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Old 12th June 2021, 19:09   #64
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C'mon chaps - I think we should all be adult enough to participate in this sort of discussion without it getting unpleasant and personal.

Ok - we do things in different ways - let's agree to differ and move on, it's just not that important.



Couldn't agree more Colvert, except Billy - please do let us know how you got on. I hope you picked through the advice here and found something useful that enabled you to get the job done.
TODAY--is the tomorrow you mentioned in one of your posts that you were going to tackle those same two bolts on your car.--How did you get on ???-----This----- or this-----
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Old 12th June 2021, 20:29   #65
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3. When the socket slipped it damaged the bolt head - only slightly and nothing to worry about just yet but I checked my extractor set just in case and I only have 17 and 19mm
Is there room for a hammer? Depending on the condition of the bolt head, it is possible to hammer the one size down extractor (17 in this case) onto the bolt. These extractors aren't hexagonal anyway, if they are like the ones I have. Would need new bolts after that though as the head will be mashed up.

Just a suggestion and maybe not possible with the access...

For ref, the style I'm picturing https://tinyurl.com/4j2rtaef
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Old 12th June 2021, 20:54   #66
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Yep same as mine them. Hoping it doesn't come to that but good to know I can tap on a 17 if it comes to it. The way my luck's going at the minute it didn't surprise me in the slightest my kit skipped the 18! On the bright side surely my luck is about to change....
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Old 12th June 2021, 20:56   #67
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Billy Rover.---I do truly feel very sorry for you in your predicament.

My two bolts put up a bit of a fight I wasn't go to take NO for an answer and they finally gave in.

I was only doing the side that had the damage rubber insert but I had bought both sides just in case.---The other side was OK. However while I was under the car I loosened and tightened the other two bolts for when I might need to remove them.--They were easier than the first two.---
Show off! HA!
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Old 12th June 2021, 21:56   #68
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TODAY--is the tomorrow you mentioned in one of your posts that you were going to tackle those same two bolts on your car.--How did you get on ???-----This----- or this-----
Hi Billy and Colvert,

Sorry to hear you're having problems Billy - I had to take two days to complete the passenger side on my car, but ironically the bolts that are giving you trouble were OK on my car. I used the two spanner and huge allen key technique, with an additional length of cycle tubing on the outer spanner which shifted the front bolt. The same ring spanner, angled down, working from under the car, again with the additional cycle tubing budged the rear bolt.

I must agree that the 18 mm ring spanner is a very loose fit on those bolt heads, enough to make you wonder if it really is a metric 18 mm head. Anyway, spanner didn't slip and the bolts remained intact. I tried a 17 mm and it didn't fit, I don't think the imperial equivalent ring spanner did either but you could try that.

Billy - if you've not tried the ring spanner technique, I can recommend it!

Getting it back together was the thing that caused us the issues - but I overcame them today and it's done now. I've written it up on the thread I started about it: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=313128

Give me a shout if I can help you as it's all fresh in my mind - getting the bush housing lined up with the subframe is the key to reassembly. Also - you have my sympathy Billy: I've got a 18 month old here and also my two nephews (7 and 9 y.o) trying to help! Doesn't make it any easier
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Old 12th June 2021, 23:00   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyRover View Post
Whilst you lot have been debating the finer points of torque wrenches two things have happened:

1. Most poignantly I broke my torque wrench. I've never really used it as a torque wrench - more a breaker bar as I picked it up in a lightening sale on amazon for a pretty penny and have my Dad's 60 year old one I use for when it matters. It's on the highest setting but with 5 foot of box steel over the end trying to undo these wishbone bolts from the subframe the ring spanner held up (despite looking like a bend it like Beckham) and then the wrench went WHACK! and the innards fell out in pieces. Don't make em like they used to eh?

Don't worry Billy, I'm sure Simon will lend you his torque wrench as long as he isn't using it to hammer something in or for some other free creative thinking idea he has come up with.
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Old 13th June 2021, 06:42   #70
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Hello Billy and I share my fellow members' sorrow and concern at your experience. The good news though is that it can be explained so that it never happens to you (or anyone else reading this) again.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyRover View Post
Most poignantly I broke my torque wrench ... It's on the highest setting but with 5 foot of box steel over the end trying to undo these wishbone bolts ...
This was your big mistake. A torque wrench should never be extended in length in this way. You exceeded the maximum torque of which your wrench was capable so it is not surprising that you destroyed it. I made it clear when I gave a torque wrench as an example that it must be used within its range.
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Originally Posted by BillyRover View Post
I bought a hexagonal socket for the rear bolt and ... gave it a good tug with the torque wrench, swivel head and shorter length of box steel for leverage ... but alas the socket had slipped ... When the socket slipped it damaged the bolt head ...
Your swivel head applies the turning force to the socket at an angle. The undesirable effect of this is that it will cause the socket to lift off the bolt head at a point directly opposite the applied force. That is why your socket slipped and damaged the bolt head. To avoid this happening, use the tooling as near to level as possible and with your other hand press the swivel and socket downwards onto the bolt head to oppose this lifting force. That's what I did and my bolts loosened unscathed.
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Originally Posted by BillyRover View Post
I've got a breaker bar coming tomorrow ... and am running out of options. Any issues me getting the blow torch on these suckers?
You don't need a blowtorch Billy. The difficulty is because the bolts are at 150 Nm and access is limited. The tool length I used was 50 cm and with one sustained pull the bolts released. It's all about how and where you apply the force, not the amount of it.

Good luck!

Simon
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