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25th March 2018, 19:39 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
2004 mk1 Rover 75 1.8T Club SE saloon (auto) Join Date: Jul 2013
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Window regulator repair kits
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/ROVER-75-Wi...YAAOSwo4pYlHSo
Has anyone ever tried these window regulator repair kits that are available from ebay? If so, are they any good? Have one on order, along with a working 2nd hand regulator. Hopefully, between the two, I’ll have something working by the end of next weekend. Have a piece of timber in under the window pane, keeping it propped up for the time being - not a good look Cheers, Karl |
26th March 2018, 06:52 | #2 |
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MG ZT-T+ 180 Sport Auto Join Date: May 2016
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Yes, I used exactly the same kit to repair my drivers window and It's been working fine for 18 months now.
I found it a bit of a faf to get it wired up correctly as I had no reference as to how to fit it, but once I worked it out it was easy |
26th April 2018, 00:02 | #3 |
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Rover 75 x 2 Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: The New World
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I have bought the kit, but does someone have a picture of a good regulator so I can figure out the routing of the wires for a RHS front window?
Many thanks, John |
26th April 2018, 05:26 | #4 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017
Location: Hull
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We had a couple of Renault Laguna's prone to window regulators failing, the control wires snap, tried a kit once found it very difficult to set up, found it easier and quicker to buy a second hand unit complete and fit it. Done three in the last 12 months on different cars. The VW passat one was bought new £23 on ebay.
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26th July 2018, 13:06 | #5 |
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Rover 75 Saloon, Tourer, Limo Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Exeter
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Have just changed a rear regulator after one of mine sounded like it had snapped the cable - loud crack and window freely moving up or down. Upon dismantling, the cable was sound but the plastic shutttle (that runs up and down the vertical channel and holds the window clamp) was snapped.
Easier to replace with a unit from a breaker; cost me about £17 with postage and just bolted in of course. Having looked at the cabling I wouldn't even consider a repair kit over a used replacement at that price! Whether repairing or replacing, leave the cable connected to the motor until you've extracted the old unit through the door. The Haynes manual suggests that you unplug before withdrawing it, but it's got one of those 'M' shaped spring clips locking the connector and hence so much easier to do when you can see it - and you won't lose the locking clip into the depths of the door where inner and outer skin meet.
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23rd October 2021, 15:19 | #6 |
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Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2019
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Hi,
I am doing the same repair for the rear left door. I have ordered even smaller repair set (not this one but the same thing): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264890634...MAAOxy9X5TZ0YX and i'm looking for some schema / instruction on how to connect all this. My old was in pieces so i couldn't see how it was connected. Anyway have seen a good instruction for it? |
23rd October 2021, 15:36 | #7 |
I really should get out more.......
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011
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Expensive as should be available from any VW dealer cheaper: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s....php?p=2766501
I used ebay photos when I replaced mine, that and a bit of logic. Good luck |
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