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Old 8th November 2021, 20:43   #21
Fred Pitt
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Got it booked in for another coolant drain/flush and a matrix flush out.
Have instructed them to drain and refill using mgr procedures.
That said they have a machine that creates a vacuum for re filling complicated engines so that the new coolant gets to all the nooks and crannies. Anyone have any experience with this?
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Old 8th November 2021, 23:35   #22
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if it was me i would just tell them to follow the mgrover proceedure.that way you are sure of a result. the vacuum pump method may well work on many cars but just to be on the safe side follow the mgrover proceedure is my advice...
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Old 9th November 2021, 08:23   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firmus Piett View Post
... they have a machine that creates a vacuum for re filling complicated engines so that the new coolant gets to all the nooks and crannies.
Hello Darren,

What is important is that the garage removes whatever sealing compound it added (the glittery particles you saw in the expansion tank). This will be time consuming, difficult and judging by other members' experiences, will involve multiple coolant changes using a flushing compound. It makes no difference whether the system is refilled using the manual method or vacuum equipment; both are approved in RAVE. You will also need a replacement thermostat because it is not closing properly.

If the garage continues to deny the evidence (the "glittery bits" which you say were not present before its involvement) then I would take your car somewhere else or do it yourself! At least that way you can be sure.

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Old 10th November 2021, 10:31   #24
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Will relay this to him when i take it in. Thanks for all your help guys.
Will update you in a few days.
On another note, since changing petrol to super unleaded, I have noticed a jump in my mpg from around 19mpg to 24mpg around town and on a run to bognor from Yarmouth it went to 35mpg.
The previous long run when I went to Skegness got up to 32mpg, so the super plus petrol is more to buy but you use less so swings and roundabouts!
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Old 12th November 2021, 17:23   #25
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My ZT is the same. Hot air on the move, cool on idle. Raise the revs slightly = hot air. I really don’t think it’s an airlock, gauge stay around half way at all times, even when stuck in traffic.
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Old 12th November 2021, 19:02   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy90 View Post
My ZT is the same. Hot air on the move, cool on idle. Raise the revs slightly = hot air. I really don’t think it’s an airlock, gauge stay around half way at all times, even when stuck in traffic.
It's a partial air lock.--The raised revs help push some hot air past the air lock.---


The cooling system needs filling correctly.---
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Old 14th November 2021, 18:32   #27
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Woops.---In the post above I meant to say--hot water.---
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Old 25th November 2021, 16:08   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashy90 View Post
My ZT is the same. Hot air on the move, cool on idle. Raise the revs slightly = hot air. I really don’t think it’s an airlock, gauge stay around half way at all times, even when stuck in traffic.
The car has had the work done, and it is better now, though not as hot as I would like.
It is warm on idle, but still hotter when moving/high revs.
As I don't seem to have any coolant leaks any more either, I am reluctant to replace the thermostat yet, I will wait until it splits or acts up, which I know is likely every two or three years with these cars.
As I said before, it has always run at 82° even before the the sealant compound appeared in the tank. That has also disappeared as well.
Ashy90, you do realise you can't pay ANY attention to your coolant temp gauge don't you?
That thing is not fit for purpose. It always shows normal for any reading between 75° and 105°, and only when above this is when it starts to warn you of a problem, which of course by then is too late!
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Old 25th November 2021, 17:49   #29
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82 degs, no thanks, my V6 runs at 95 with the original type 88 deg thermostat.

Rather than buy a new thermostat, which are all 82 deg ones anyway, explore Stocktake's suggestion of adding an in-line thermostat. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/rov...80569d3e&_ss=r

I've just reclaimed an old thermostat from my donor, rather than buy a fake "Genuine/OEM/MG Rover/Xpart" not up to original spec thermostat. A whole lot of effort but in my location it was either that or an in-line thermostat.

Good luck
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Old 25th November 2021, 19:30   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firmus Piett View Post
I am reluctant to replace the thermostat yet, I will wait until it splits or acts up, which I know is likely every two or three years with these cars.
Hi Darren,

It's a common assumption that the thermostat housing splits. It doesn't. The leak comes from the flattened 'O' ring at the housing base. The resulting spray of coolant coats the housing seam and accordingly misleads people.

It also isn't likely every two or three years if you follow RAVE's instructions (hard to interpret I admit) when assembling the coolant parts in the 'V'.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Firmus Piett View Post
It always shows normal for any reading between 75° and 105° ...
The upper limit is even worse than you warn Darren; it's 115°! This phenomenon is nothing to do with MG Rover. All marques do it now. It persuades the non technically minded motorist that huge technological advances have been made.

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Last edited by SD1too; 25th November 2021 at 19:33..
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