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5th December 2021, 22:18 | #11 | ||
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I have used long nosed mole grips, once the spring is down the mole grips will hold it in place while you work on the nut
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5th December 2021, 23:28 | #12 |
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6th December 2021, 07:03 | #13 | ||
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Yes, I spotted that as well. Believe it or not the thread is deliberately distorted at manufacture presumably to prevent the spigot being wound out completely and acting like a bullet. Even the brand new strikers' threads were like that. Quote:
Looking forward to hearing from anyone who can move their nut in situ today. Simon
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6th December 2021, 09:45 | #14 |
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Maybe I have missed it, or misinterpreted how the adjustment works, but I always thought you had to release the tension on the spring to turn the screw?
To wind in required the lock nut released, but to wind out just the spring, then tighten the lock nut. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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6th December 2021, 10:33 | #15 | ||
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You have it spot on that is the correct way to adjust, remove the tension on the spring first, before any adjustment can be done. raining here so not even tried yet to convince Simon
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6th December 2021, 10:57 | #16 | |
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I have often discovered loose screws in electrical plugs and sockets after several years use. ( Thermal expansion and contraction makes them slowly unscrew. )--This same force of hot and cold will cause those bonnet screws to undo unless firmly locked by the associated lock nut. Just my observations though I'm happy to be proved wrong if that's the case. Probably why thread lock is popular.---- |
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6th December 2021, 12:54 | #17 |
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That's ok Steve. Before the weekend would be good though as that's when the car is being collected by its owner.
Has anyone else tried it yet? Whilst lots of debate and views are interesting, what I'm asking for is a bit of spanner action! Simon
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6th December 2021, 14:17 | #18 | |
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here you go take tension off the spring with mole grips. 1 Crack the nut with a 17mm open end spanner. 2 3 Then use your good flat blade screwdriver to adjust. once you have found your height or that the bonnet holds down with out being to tight to pop back up, re-tighten the locking nut. 4 5 I will be taking these off in the next few day to clean and do the little flatting of the plate to aid getting the spanner on but i doubt once adjusted you will ever need to do them again. Puzzle now solved PS i knew i had sorted some of these out before, flattened the ends over and ready to dress and paint so they could be fitted to my bonnet, just in case i ever needed to unbolt them should the bonnet not open properly, but have done another mod to stop that, one which i would not have to remove the wheel arch liner and cut my hand to get to the cables. 1
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7th December 2021, 06:55 | #19 |
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Thanks for the photos Steve. Although I couldn't see the gap between your nut and plate that I was hoping for, I went out to the garage straight away to have another go at one of the original strikers in the vice.
What released it in the end were hammer blows to both ends of the spigot! The nut then released but still left me unable to turn the shaft for adjustment. To achieve that I had to push the spring down and use my 10 inch Vise Grips on the large diameter end of the spigot and push with considerable force. None of this would have been advisable with the striker still attached to the bonnet! Now to repeat the process on the brand new parts which are also unyielding. Thank you, I am convinced! Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 7th December 2021 at 08:10.. Reason: Re-written |
7th December 2021, 08:57 | #20 | |
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Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk
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