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Old 5th December 2021, 23:18   #11
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Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
Slackening (then tightening) the locking nut requires you to force an open ended spanner between the spring and the bonnet plate. Maybe use a blade to lever a gap and then force the spanner in. Maybe MGR had a special tool for this, but for me it was more like a bull-at-a-gate than engineering finesse.




TC
Hi Cyrano.
I have used long nosed mole grips, once the spring is down the mole grips will hold it in place while you work on the nut
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Old 6th December 2021, 00:28   #12
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Originally Posted by Dave lincs View Post
Hi Simon my research is as Arctic has also found the lockout is inside the spring as shown in his yet again great picture
I guess you mean LOCKNUT.--
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Old 6th December 2021, 08:03   #13
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Originally Posted by Lee62 View Post
The thread in the photo looks well mullered and could be causing the tightness.
Hi Lee,

Yes, I spotted that as well. Believe it or not the thread is deliberately distorted at manufacture presumably to prevent the spigot being wound out completely and acting like a bullet. Even the brand new strikers' threads were like that.
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If you could loosen the pin with just a screwdriver the pin would gradually move and alter the position the bonnet locks in place.
I can see your logic Lee but I don't think it would. The considerable force of the spring would prevent involuntary rotation.

Looking forward to hearing from anyone who can move their nut in situ today.

Simon
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Old 6th December 2021, 10:45   #14
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Maybe I have missed it, or misinterpreted how the adjustment works, but I always thought you had to release the tension on the spring to turn the screw?

To wind in required the lock nut released, but to wind out just the spring, then tighten the lock nut.

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Old 6th December 2021, 11:33   #15
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Maybe I have missed it, or misinterpreted how the adjustment works, but I always thought you had to release the tension on the spring to turn the screw?

To wind in required the lock nut released, but to wind out just the spring, then tighten the lock nut.

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Hi Alan.
You have it spot on that is the correct way to adjust, remove the tension on the spring first, before any adjustment can be done.

raining here so not even tried yet to convince Simon
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Old 6th December 2021, 11:57   #16
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Hi Lee,

Yes, I spotted that as well. Believe it or not the thread is deliberately distorted at manufacture presumably to prevent the spigot being wound out completely and acting like a bullet. Even the brand new strikers' threads were like that.

I can see your logic Lee but I don't think it would. The considerable force of the spring would prevent involuntary rotation.

Looking forward to hearing from anyone who can move their nut in situ today.

Simon
Not sure about that. The threads have a force in one direction induced by the spring. Any minute vibration will have a tendency to unscrew the bolt due to the uni-direction force generated by the angle of the thread.

I have often discovered loose screws in electrical plugs and sockets after several years use. ( Thermal expansion and contraction makes them slowly unscrew. )--This same force of hot and cold will cause those bonnet screws to undo unless firmly locked by the associated lock nut.


Just my observations though I'm happy to be proved wrong if that's the case.

Probably why thread lock is popular.----
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Old 6th December 2021, 13:54   #17
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... raining here so not even tried yet to convince Simon
That's ok Steve. Before the weekend would be good though as that's when the car is being collected by its owner.

Has anyone else tried it yet? Whilst lots of debate and views are interesting, what I'm asking for is a bit of spanner action!

Simon
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Old 6th December 2021, 15:17   #18
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That's ok Steve. Before the weekend would be good though as that's when the car is being collected by its owner.

Has anyone else tried it yet? Whilst lots of debate and views are interesting, what I'm asking for is a bit of spanner action!

Simon
Hi Simon.
here you go take tension off the spring with mole grips.
1

Crack the nut with a 17mm open end spanner.
2

3

Then use your good flat blade screwdriver to adjust.

once you have found your height or that the bonnet holds down with out being to tight to pop back up, re-tighten the locking nut.
4

5

I will be taking these off in the next few day to clean and do the little flatting of the plate to aid getting the spanner on but i doubt once adjusted you will ever need to do them again.

Puzzle now solved

PS i knew i had sorted some of these out before, flattened the ends over and ready to dress and paint so they could be fitted to my bonnet, just in case i ever needed to unbolt them should the bonnet not open properly, but have done another mod to stop that, one which i would not have to remove the wheel arch liner and cut my hand to get to the cables.
1
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Last edited by Arctic; 8th December 2021 at 01:30.. Reason: photo editing
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Old 7th December 2021, 07:55   #19
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Thanks for the photos Steve. Although I couldn't see the gap between your nut and plate that I was hoping for, I went out to the garage straight away to have another go at one of the original strikers in the vice.

What released it in the end were hammer blows to both ends of the spigot! The nut then released but still left me unable to turn the shaft for adjustment. To achieve that I had to push the spring down and use my 10 inch Vise Grips on the large diameter end of the spigot and push with considerable force.

None of this would have been advisable with the striker still attached to the bonnet!

Now to repeat the process on the brand new parts which are also unyielding.

Thank you, I am convinced!

Simon
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Last edited by SD1too; 7th December 2021 at 09:10.. Reason: Re-written
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Old 7th December 2021, 09:57   #20
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Thanks for the photos Steve. Although I couldn't see the gap between your nut and plate that I was hoping for, I went out to the garage straight away to have another go at one of the original strikers in the vice.

What released it in the end were hammer blows to both ends of the spigot! The nut then released but still left me unable to turn the shaft for adjustment. To achieve that I had to push the spring down and use my 10 inch Vise Grips on the large diameter end of the spigot and push with considerable force.

None of this would have been advisable with the striker still attached to the bonnet!

Now to repeat the process on the brand new parts which are also unyielding.

Thank you, I am convinced!

Simon
The gap is visible.in image 2. It only would need to be 'just cracked' if the thread is being wound out.

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