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8th June 2016, 22:17 | #11 |
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A good wack with a lump hammer and it will come off, don't be too afraid they can withstand some punishment, at least mine did when I was doing the wheel bearing at weekend.
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8th June 2016, 22:22 | #12 |
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If you can hang on till Sunday I can give you a hand...
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9th June 2016, 06:00 | #13 |
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9th June 2016, 07:04 | #14 | |
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Quote:
Despite a good clean up and soaking in penetrating oil, and using an impact gun and surface drive impact sockets mine refused to budge, eventually rounding off the bolt head. Next step is to weld a bigger nut on and then I can get the 3/4" drive socket set out, which along with the 5ft scaffold bar should shift it. Often welding the nut on frees the threads up as they expand a bit with the heat, but we'll see. This is on Mrs Noc's 75, and this could be the first time it has been undone since coming off the production line. Having had one front spring fail thought I'd change both and fit tyre protectors - every little helps. |
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9th June 2016, 07:19 | #15 |
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When Colin changed my strut bearings,he used a copper hammer to knock the hub assembly off the strut. The top pinch bolt was incredibly tight, but plenty of lube, and just working the bolt back and forward, it came off.
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9th June 2016, 08:11 | #16 |
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9th June 2016, 08:12 | #17 | |
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This is a very nice 'how to' with great pictures and some good tips - many thanks. You do not say how you actually separated the strut from the hub after removing the pinch bolt - this is where I am stuck ! Thanks again Pete |
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9th June 2016, 08:20 | #18 | |
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The top pinch bolt was very stubborn - I cracked it with a 6-sided 15mm socket on a 3 foot breaker bar after a good soak in releasing fluid - but it remained very tight almost to the end, so it was a slow process moving the socket around the breaker bar every quarter turn, and moving it a bit more, until I could start moving it with a long handle ratchet. I think when I do the other side, I might fire up the compressor and try the Ingersoll Rand impact gun to remove it - I did not think it was worth it on this side for one bolt !. Keep us updated. Cheers Pete |
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9th June 2016, 08:37 | #19 |
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Pete knock a metal wedge into the strut clamp to open it, the strut then should move with a good knock downwards using a piece of wood and a 2lb lump hammer.
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9th June 2016, 08:46 | #20 |
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Thanks Steve
I have just been out to the garage, and success !! An overnight soak in more penetrating fluid, and a few taps directly on the hub with the lump hammer got it moving - I know you are not meant to hit the hub directly with a metal hammer, but using wood blocks was not doing anything, and I went fairly gently. I can now see a definite crease in the strut, and I think the bottom is slightly out of line, so I think that probably explains the negative camber problem. I keep you updated of progress. Pete |
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