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19th June 2007, 07:26 | #21 | |
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I sold my bracket when I put the CD Changer in the glove box. Last edited by GreyGhost; 19th June 2007 at 19:36.. Reason: Duplicate pic removed. :-) |
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22nd June 2007, 12:44 | #22 |
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Managed a bit more today before the rain.
Plan was to run the new loom in from the Harmony unit to the boot. Quick read of dealers instructions and worked out what had to come out. Managed to get the rear seat out. Took a photo of the sticker with all the spring and damper details on just in case. Then it was a case of taking out : Harmony unit Clocks Drivers lower dash ranel Boot / bonet release panel front and rear kick plate strips door seals B pillar cover. Threading the loom through was straight forward, although a second pair of hands would have helped. IOn the end the loom is about 400mm too long but it's better then being too short. I could have made the end off when in situ but I didn't fancy soldering everything whilst sitteing in the boot. Took the changer out of the glove box (for the last time) and swapped everything over to check it worked before putting the car back together. Very pleased that it did (no reason why it shouldn't but you never know) Went to change the brackets on the changer and came across my only 2 problems. For some reason, the old brackets were secured to the changer with security torx bolts. No idea why, but they were soon remove with a set of mole grips. Then the bigger problem. The new brackets didn't line up with the original holes in the changer. Then it dawned on me that the car it came out of was equipped with a Kenwood not Alpine unit. I need to have a look in detail, but there may not be enough meet on the brackets to drill new holes. As an interim measure I've attached them with an industrial grade double sided tape. The only other observation was that the new kick plate clips aren't as long / good as the original Rover ones. Just got to work out whats next on the list.
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22nd June 2007, 20:30 | #23 |
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Last instalment for today.
I had a problem of the loom not reaching the PDC unit, it was almost there but not quiet enough without it straining on the plug. So I stripped off about 250mm of the loom tape, back to where the earth wires all merge out and re wrapped it on it's own. This has now allowed more slack on the four wires that exit trhough the wheel arch to the O/S rear brake pads and now gives me enough slack to get the plug on the PDC. Fitted the new trim panel back (This one has the cut out and bulge for the CD changer) and discovered that it doesn't have the cut out to fit the access panel for the rear light. No doubt another cost cutting measure.
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23rd June 2007, 22:28 | #24 | |
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Quote:
About the same time the ZT/75 was designed, I guess, So no problem, Dave
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ZT 190 X Power Grey The Only Colour is this Dark Silver!! When I was a kid I was scared of earwigs because I thought they actually lived in your ears. I was even more terrified of cockroaches! |
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26th June 2007, 15:24 | #25 |
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Next instalment.............................
Managed to get an electric blind, switch and the original shelf via ebay off a local breaker. Having read Keith's post I made sure that I got the old shelf (sandstone) to ensure that I got all the mountings. I read both the threads and "How to" so set out with a fair bit of confidence. Getting everything out (D panels, belts etc)was easy, and geting my shelf out was straight forward. Next part was to compare all the bits Top shelf is my grey standard shelf, bottom one is the donor with slot and mountings. This is the shelf to cut. You can just about make out the outline thats pressed in the shelf This is one of the four mountings that were cut off. I popped them in some hot water (NOT boiling) to soften the bonding agent. A penknife and pliers soon peeled off the glue. Using Araldite the four mountings were put in place. There are marks where they go, but I check with the blind that they were all in place before the glue set. With the aid of a new stanley blade I cut the slot out and the ends which require an odd shape. I used the old shelf and some masking tape to make a template. This shows the slot cut. Once the glue was dry, the blind is held in with 3 clips and 3 screws. Took a litlle bit of fiddling the get the leading edge of the blind through the slot. This shows the rear shelf. Just to the middle left you can see the cut out for the motor. This was my first mistake, as I assumed that I'd be able to reach the 2 plugs from underneath in the boot. WRONG, you must connect the loom to the motor as you slide the shelf in. If you don't it's very difficult to push the two together. Next problem is that the shelf is now very rigid and doesn't bend in the same way when you take it out. My next problem was it caught the HRW connection and pulled it off. Straight forward to solder back on but could cave done without it. If you do put the shelf in, a) make sure all the HRW connectors are flush with the glass, and b) put some tape over them just in case. Refitting all the trim was straight forward. Last job was the switch. Again pop the trim off and the loom should be sitting there. Only problem I had was the plug was keyed and it would not fit. I tried it in both planes and it would not go in. So I trimmed one of the keys off and it fits perfectly. All in all took just under 4 hours. My pile of bits is getting smaller
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26th June 2007, 15:50 | #26 |
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Looks good! Should be doing mine if I can get the seats down! They're still stuck!! grrr!
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27th June 2007, 11:45 | #27 |
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I've already posted up the picture of the bracket that went in, heres the space in went into
Again mine was missing the plastic speed nuts, But these are readily available from Rimmers. Last job was the fitting the trim Although the later one doesn't have a hole cut to gain access to the rear light, it was a simple mater of a sharpe knife and following the impression on the panel. To ensure it doesn't fray, I ran a bead of super glue round, which is similar to the factory one. Car is booked in next week at the local garage for a T4 session to enable the new instrument cluster One final thing, whilst the back seat was out, I took a photo of the data sticker under the seat, just in case I need to order any springs in the future.
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2nd July 2007, 12:40 | #28 |
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Bit more done today..........
Finally managed to get the handsfree kit installed. Starting with the mic. Bog standard Nokia one. Thought the best place was inside the interior light, using the space that is already there. Nokia do make a square profile one, but I didn't see the point in paying £10 for a square mic, so with the aid of a small strip of plastic and double sided tape, I made a small mounting strip which holds it in place perfectly. A small cable strap acts as an anchor for the cable. The rest was really a matter of running the wires in. I bought a mute lead off ebay for 99p. Bit of a barging as they cost anything between £35 and £45. Took me ages to work out that the reason the seller couldn't get it to work was that he'd plugged it together the wrong way round. Made a lead up to go from the mute lead to the car kit and buried it away at the rear of the ATC panel. Last part was the bracket and phone holder. I've got an N73 which Nokia don't make a holder for, so I plumped for a Brodit clip. £15 and very well made. I opted for a bracket that mounts under the ATC panel rather then the cup holder verson which sits a bit too low for me. The remote control lives on the opposite side where the drivers side cup holder would go. Tomorrow sees "TB" off to WareRover to have it's new IPK fitted, and PDC enabled.
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2nd July 2007, 13:11 | #29 |
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Where is your blind switch???
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2nd July 2007, 14:22 | #30 |
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Currently in the ash tray as I need to either buy another panel or cut a hole out of the existing one......
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