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3rd April 2018, 12:57 | #1 |
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cuts out
My rover 75 2.5 v6 had a fault two weeks ago. Came to fire her up on the Sunday morning and she would not start Called the AA who said it was probably the fuel pump. It had no pressure and fuel just trickled out. The pump has now been changed and fuel fly's out and car starts but will only run for about 60 seconds or so and dies again spluttering and stops. We are now lost on what it can be. Any ideas please ive run out of what to do next
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3rd April 2018, 12:59 | #2 | |
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if the UBP was knackered it may have been from overwork due to a knackered ITP.... Does the ITP hum if you just turn the key to pos II without starting and listen to the back seat...?? is the tank almost empty?
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3rd April 2018, 13:07 | #3 |
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you could hear the old pump working but not a lot of fuel the only code was p1470 compensation valve constantly open. the tank is almost full two days before this happended
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3rd April 2018, 13:14 | #4 | |
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One under the bonnet and one in the fuel tank? look up FOC (fabled orange clip) and rule that out...
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3rd April 2018, 13:20 | #5 |
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Only one pump on a V6!
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3rd April 2018, 13:39 | #6 |
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Thank you .. that rules that one out then just one pump. Its got a good flow just will not keep running once it starts up
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3rd April 2018, 13:45 | #7 | |
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high pressure pump injector fault fuel rail sensor (plug and unplug a few times to clean / dry the connection) Water in fuel? not being a petrol owner i would check air intake, throttle body etc...
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3rd April 2018, 15:36 | #8 |
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I would suspect the cam or crankshaft sensor is breaking down once it starts warming up.
It's a common fault that causes these symptoms on many cars - and doesn't always leave a fault code, either. If not then another thing the V6 is known for that may cause this is a sticking idle control valve in the throttle body. Simple fix with a 10 quid rebuild kit
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S. Wales meets cancelled until further notice [SIGPIC]https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/image.php?u=23989&type=sigpic&dateline=1467731033[/SIGPIC] Past cars:- BL: Discovery 3.1 & V8 2WD pick-up, Rover 800 Vitesse Turbo Coupe, 820 SLi 180 Fastback, 600ti, Montego 2.0EFi VDP, Ital 1.3 Estate Ford: Transit Cosworth V6, Granada 2.9 V6 Scorpio & 2.8 V6 GL Volvo: 480 Turbo & 1.7 ES, 240 GLE Porsche: 944 2.7 Lux Audi: 100 ESE 20v Peugeot: 405 1.9 GR Talbot: Alpine 1.6 Rapier S |
3rd April 2018, 15:47 | #9 |
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Just been reading through Rave and a few other manuals and it seems that on the 75/ZT the cam sensor is only use at startup, and once running is not referenced by the ECU.
Based on this and your symptoms if it starts up from cold every time I'd check the crankshaft sensor first.
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S. Wales meets cancelled until further notice [SIGPIC]https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/image.php?u=23989&type=sigpic&dateline=1467731033[/SIGPIC] Past cars:- BL: Discovery 3.1 & V8 2WD pick-up, Rover 800 Vitesse Turbo Coupe, 820 SLi 180 Fastback, 600ti, Montego 2.0EFi VDP, Ital 1.3 Estate Ford: Transit Cosworth V6, Granada 2.9 V6 Scorpio & 2.8 V6 GL Volvo: 480 Turbo & 1.7 ES, 240 GLE Porsche: 944 2.7 Lux Audi: 100 ESE 20v Peugeot: 405 1.9 GR Talbot: Alpine 1.6 Rapier S |
3rd April 2018, 20:47 | #10 |
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Faulty temperature sender? If it is not working, the ECU may assume the engine is stone cold, and give max choke, overfuelling, and drowning the engine. Does the exhaust smell very strongly of petrol? Idle control valve sticking is also a good call, - happened on my MGF.
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