Rover 75 V6 - Newbie help

[madsega]

Hello guys,

This is my first post and wanted to say I'm glad to be part of the Rover community. I recently purchased a Rover 75 Saloon V6, year 2000, Manual EU version and I know about cars as much as I know about quantum physics Well, maybe a bit more

This car is pretty banged up and need to change a whole lot of things but mainly I have these few points. If you have any idea about anything I write here, please let me know so that I can restore this great car.

The bonnet is not opening because of the cable being shot somewhere (the previous owner put a metal wire attached to the main wire but it's still not working). After following a tutorial here, I took the wheel off, pulled the plastic cover behind the wheel and found this hose completely shot. Any idea what it is used for, how it's named and what is the proper position? I found it on the bottom where all that dirt is, facing the wheel. There's a lot of dirt there so I'm wondering if it was pulling dirt into the engine, into the car or where exactly?



After managing to open the bonnet I see that I need to replace the cable coming from the lever to the black box where the other 2 cables are connected. Are these the correct parts to order? https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FSE000130 and https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-FTU000010



Third thing, the accelerator pedal is very hard, I really need to put pressure on it to accelerate and the first centimeter of pressing does nothing. After a few reading, I'm thinking of ordering new springs and an accelerator cable. Do you agree or could it be something else?

Also, the clutch pedal is very hard. The previous owner said he fitted a BMW clutch kit or some part because it fitted and was way cheaper. Not so sure it was a good call. I'll have to see exactly what part is wrong and replace just that or the whole clutch kit.

There was steam coming out of the Tank assembly-coolant system when the cap was on. Do I need a new cap (and which one https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001598 ) or could it be something else?

While opening the oil cap, upon a closer inspection I found something that I'm not entirely sure it's supposed to be there or not. I also see deposits (black gunk on the bottom) which maybe I could clean them out somehow? What's the term for this container where I put the oil in? Also, should there be more oil, it looked pretty empty?


With your help, I managed to diagnose the faulty reverse light switch, as the reverse lights aren't working, neither the parking sensors.

I'm also missing a Rover badge on the right side so if you guys can point me to where I could buy one, would be much appreciated.

Thinking that I will have to change all the filters, would I need a fuel pump clip I've heard so much about or is this model not affected?

The among the faults are the interior back lights not working, rear electric window not working (I can hear the motor clicking when I try to roll the window down), the rotors and brakes are rusty, LCD screen has missing lines and it's in german, the black box above the fuse box (passenger side) has the clamps broken and it's just hanging..

All the door handles chrome rings have clamps broken, if you know where I can get this as well would be great


I'm gonna leave it at that for the moment, don't want to freak you out. Sorry for my not so good english and my lack of auto expertise, so any help you could provide, would be immensely appreciated.

Thank you.

[Lord of Hog]

The crumbling thing in picture 1 is the Shannon Tube. The solid end attaches to a mounting up under the wing with the other end feeding into the bottom of your air box assembly. They are notorious for disintegrating. You can easily make a new one with a length of the appropriate bore silicone hose. There should be a "How To" on here.

The trim on the interior door handles isn't meant to come apart from the rest of the assembly, although a lot of people don't know this and remove it while carrying out some job or other on the door and then can't get it back on properly. It won't simply fit back on, but you can get a pretty good result either with some decent glue or by melting the clips onto the back plate with a soldering iron, heat knife, hot screwdriver etc.

A new coolant cap is always a good idea as the O-rings compress over time. The Land-Rover version may be a shade cheaper and does a perfect job. A lot of BMW caps will also fit. If that doesn't stop the steam then you may have a cracked expansion tank or a leaking hose. Neither is expensive or difficult to replace.

Not quite sure what I'm looking at in Picture 3. Where is this container and what sort of oil are you putting in it.?

[SD1too]

Just to add to Russell's excellent reply:

Originally Posted by madsega

... the accelerator pedal is very hard, I really need to put pressure on it to accelerate and the first centimeter of pressing does nothing. After a few reading, I'm thinking of ordering new springs and an accelerator cable. Do you agree or could it be something else?

Before spending money, possibly unnecessarily, try some lubrication of the linkage at the throttle body. Also check that the cable adjustment is correct. Buy a second-hand Haynes manual from e-bay.

There was steam coming out of the Tank assembly-coolant system when the cap was on. Do I need a new cap ... or could it be something else?

Again, before exercising your credit card find out whether your radiator fan is working as follows:

1. Start the engine from cold.
2. On the air con/heater control panel press the windscreen demist button.
3. Get out of the car and walk to the radiator grille. Can you hear the fan running continuously?

While opening the oil cap, upon a closer inspection I found something that I'm not entirely sure it's supposed to be there or not.

I agree.

What's the term for this container where I put the oil in?

The oil filler is part of the LH bank camshaft cover. It's not a container so is quite normal for it to look relatively dry. Use the dispstick to check the oil level, on a warm engine which isn't running and after letting it stand for five minutes.

Thinking that I will have to change all the filters, would I need a fuel pump clip I've heard so much about or is this model not affected?

Your year 2000 car is not affected by fuel filter loosening. Leave the filter alone, unless you want to cause yourself problems.

Simon

[madsega]

Hey guys,

Thank you for the replies. I will see if I can find the How-to for the Shannon Tube. I don't know why the previous owner tried to remove the chrome rings but I will have to glue them down if that's the case. I will order a new coolant cap just to be sure but I also did follow SD1too request to start the engine cold, turn on the demist button and check the radiator grille. The big fan behind the radiator didn't moved at all as can be seen in this video. There was air coming in behind the windshield, though the radiator wasnt moving. Any ideas? Video below.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWcb0ak5UXc

Regarding the thingy, it might be in the camshaft like SD1too mentioned. I will try to pick it out when I open the hood again. Stupid me I shut it last time and now I have to remove the wheel again.


On another note, could you guys take a picture of the rear elbow rest, mine has the clip broken so I was thinking to 3D print the whole plastic bit.


Also, what is this thing called. Also broken holders:


More broken clips:


Most likely tomorrow I will open the bonnet again and try to adjust the throttle cable, although I'm thinking this will fix the part where I push the pedal a bit and does nothing. Do you think it will also solve the fact that I have to push it REALLY hard with the whole foot, to get some RPMs?

I looked for a Haynes manual, found this . Is it the proper one?

Thank you again.

[stevestrat]

Originally Posted by madsega

I looked for a Haynes manual, found this . Is it the proper one?

Thank you again.

That's the one but beware there are errors in it, I think the worst is it says the brake and clutch fluid comes from one reservoir . . . . no it doesn't! The brake one is in the plenum but the clutch one is at the top of the clutch pedal and very difficult to access.

[vitesse]

The clip for the rear armrest is available from Rimmers, here:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-HWJ000020SCD

Regards

[madsega]

Originally Posted by stevestrat

That's the one but beware there are errors in it, I think the worst is it says the brake and clutch fluid comes from one reservoir . . . . no it doesn't! The brake one is in the plenum but the clutch one is at the top of the clutch pedal and very difficult to access.

Seeing as I don't know what a plenum is .. haha.

I saw 2 reservoirs under the bonnet beneath the left wiper, one bigger and one smaller. I'm guessing that one is for brake and the other for something else. If the clutch reservoir is on top of the clutch pedal, doesn't it needs filling? What should it be filled with? Maybe I can check and see if there's liquid in there

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by madsega

I know about cars as much as I know about quantum physics - - -

Well, Quantum Physics and cars are basically the same thing. They're all about getting from one place to another, right? The difference with Quantum Physics is you're never anywhere between.

- - - found this hose completely shot. Any idea what it is used for, how it's named and what is the proper position?

The Shannon Tube is used to draw combustion air from the upper wing area (where it's cold and clean) into the engine (via the air filter). The original tube was made of a cotton/wire fabric intended to minimise induction noise. The problem was, they only lasted a couple of years due to road splash and rotting. The standard fix is to replace it with a more reliable material like neoprene/wire ducting. See this How To: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=36976


The rubbish collected behind the arch liner suggests that the access panel may be missing or badly fitted. Is there a panel in place?

I need to replace the cable coming from the lever to the black box where the other 2 cables are connected.

The black box contains the cable shuttle, a plastic block that joins the single pull cable to the two bonnet lock cables. When you refit everything, ensure to do a Shuttle Shuffle. This is all explained here:https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=43417

Are these the correct parts to order?

Yes

There was steam coming out of the tank assembly-coolant system when the cap was on.

Coolant/steam will vent from the pressure relief valve (in the cap) if the coolant gets too hot (around 120C or so), or at lower temperatures if the rubber seals in the cap have deteriorated. The radiator fan should prevent overheating when it's operating correctly.

The engine should normally operate at around 90C. You can't tell anything from the temperature gauge ('normal' can be anywhere betweeen 75C and 115C), so pretty useless. The only way to know is by using the Trip Screen Diagnostics. You can learn about this here: https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...ad.php?t=55585

Do I need a new cap

If necessary, just replacing the rubber seals will fix a leaky cap at half the price.

While opening the oil cap, upon a closer inspection I found something that I'm not entirely sure it's supposed to be there or not.

Cam cover breather mesh?

I'm also missing a Rover badge on the right side so if you guys can point me to where I could buy one, would be much appreciated.

You can find almost all this stuff on eBay.

etc., etc.

Sounds like you'll be busy.

Try to upload smaller photos (800 pixels max) to make your posts easier to read.

TC

[stevestrat]

Originally Posted by madsega

Seeing as I don't know what a plenum is .. haha.

The plenum is the space between the bulkhead at the rear of the engine and the bulkhead at the start of the passenger cabin. Read this thread.

Originally Posted by madsega

I saw 2 reservoirs under the bonnet beneath the left wiper, one bigger and one smaller. I'm guessing that one is for brake and the other for something else. If the clutch reservoir is on top of the clutch pedal, doesn't it needs filling? What should it be filled with? Maybe I can check and see if there's liquid in there

In theory the clutch reservoir doesn't need filling, supposed to be a sealed system. Its a pain to get at in a right hand drive car, don't know how accessible it is in a left hander. The reservoir sits on top of the master cylinder at the top of the clutch pedal.

In addition to what T-Cut said about the header tank cap seals, if you are replacing them replace them with VITON seals. More durable than rubber.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by stevestrat

In addition to what T-Cut said about the header tank cap seals, if you are replacing them replace them with VITON seals. More durable than rubber.

Thanks for your comments. But just to clarify, all Vitons are a synthetic rubber, but not all synthetic rubbers are Viton.


TC.